PS3 Mad Catz TE fight stick dual mod with XBox 360 Mad Catz SE board


#1

So I’ve been modding my PS3 TE stick with a 360 SE board (Walmart sale - vanilla return = $15 stick:wgrin:) and finished it a while back, but ran into a snag with the ribbon wires not being 1-1. So through some trial and error tests, the pins were pretty much all correct. But when I thought the Start and Select switches were correct, the start wouldn’t work at all. So I switched the Start and Select pins so both work, but on 360 mode select is start and vice of versa. I chose to leave it at that as it was perfectly fine, but I figured I’d finally fix it and maybe someone knows of the problem. PS3 mode still is the perfectly fine. Figured someone may know the pin configuration on the 360 board. I’ll post pics or a diagram if someone wants to see the mod.

The pin configuration I used with the ribbon wired from the quick disconnect board go straight to both the ps3 board and the SE board, I never wired the home bar as I didn’t care for navigation or turbo on 360. The stick defaults to DP mode, I believe, for the SE board anyway.

(The following is the wiring configuration where the first number is the quick disconnect board, and the second number is the 360 board. Numbered from 1-11 where 1-5 is the 1st 5wire ribbon wire set and 6-11 is the 2nd 6 wire ribbon wire set. The numbering for the quick disconnect board may seem backwards as I did flip the board around for wiring purposes.)

1-11
2-10
3-3
4-4
5-6
6-5
7-1
8-2
9-8
10-7
11-9

complete

Spoiler

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f338/miniwasabi1117/DSC01893.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f338/miniwasabi1117/DSC01892.jpg

USB dual mod install DPDT

[details=Spoiler] First off, I’m not that experienced in soldering as I only do it when needed and for hobby/modding reasons, so yeah I know my soldering doesn’t look pro and that my iron is probably too hot. So you don’t have to be too amazing to do this mod, also sorry if de-solder and re-solder are not real words…

A DPDT (see Wiki or Note:DPDT for more info) is a switch that allows switching between 360 and PS3. Alternatively one could use an IMP board, but this is another method. Whatever method you chose remember that both boards must be powered at all times, and the both boards must share a common ground.

Assuming that you know how to de-solder and solder wires already, open up the 360 SE stick, unplug everything, and proceed to de-soldering the board free from the USB. I highly recommend using solder wick, as starting with a fresh hole is much easier. Wires on the SE board are 5V/USB, D- D+ and ground. There’s another fatter black ground, don’t worry about it. Colors and wires i used were from the USB of the SE. Red for 5V/USB, white for D-, green for D+ and black for ground (Try not to mix them up, see Note USB if that section just confused you). Try to use quite a lot of slack, no longer than a foot should be necessary for the SE board to the DPDT depending where you install it.

following completion of soldering the new USB, you can go ahead and solder to the DPDT, or you can save that till the end. In this tutorial we’ll show it as each step is complete. Solder the White and Green data cables to the DPDT, leave the red and black ones for later.

Now de-solder the USB from the PS3 TE board. Re-solder a relatively short cable to the board, no shorter than a inch and a half preferably, so there’s some give. Solder the wire onto the USB, Red for USB, White for D-, Green for D+, Black for ground again.

Order should be the same, I re-soldered it later to the bottom instead to keep it cleaner and the wire was to short previously. Before soldering the PS3 USB to the DPDT, strip the USB wire you are going to use onto the DPDT. Green and White in the same sides as the first solder but in the middle output. (See note DPDT) Leave the Red and black out for later again.

Now solder the PS3 usb’s to the DPDT, this time take all 3 of the red wires, twist, and solder them tight. Take all 3 of the black wires, twist, and solder them together also. Electric tape, shrink wrap, or use whatever insulation you prefer on the connection. Double check your solders to make sure they are all secure by tugging on them a bit. Also check to make sure you didn’t accidentally solder different color wires or their pots together, and make sure you insulate your connections.

For installing the DPDT into the box, you need to find a place to install it. Most of us install it into the cable compartment. Make sure you consider how the wire wraps inside of the compartment. You’ll have to drill a hole just large enough for the switch, use any drill just be safe. I used a power drill.

All that’s left is to screw in the DPDT and test to make sure it works, or finish the rest of your mod if that’s not done. Personally I test the usb connections on my PC, switching in between them making sure the computer reads both boards separately and not at the same time.

<NOTE: USB>
USB is pretty much consistent of 4 wires. 5V/USB as labeled on the Mad Catz boards is the power, in this case I used the red wire. D- and D+ is the retrieving and sending data lines, White and Green were used respectively. Ground is just ground… Black was used there.
<END NOTE>

<NOTE: DPDT>
DPDT stands for Double Pull, Double Throw. Basically the switch we use has a 2 way switch which utilizes 6 poles, 2 for each wire. The Center 2 poles is the output/input of the common usb (the one that plugs into your console/pc) and the outside 2 sets of poles are for each board. One direction of the switch would activate PS3 mode, and the other direction would activate 360 mode.
<END NOTE>

[/details]

Alternative to the DPDT route, you could use an IMP.

More pics of board and stuff when i’m not busy. And I’ll make some paint schematic, that should be better than seeing a bunch of wires all intertwined.


#2

The spam filter kept catching your post for some reason. Hopefully it’s off now.


#3

i was thinking of putting a ps3 pcb from se in my 360 stick. i never did anything like this before so i have no idea where to start.


#4

You might want to start here:

http://shoryuken.com/f177/official-cthulhu-chimp-thread-try-our-new-dreamcast-flavor-162026/


#5

The amount of soldering required for using the Mad Catz boards get a little tedious, but it’s possible. The pin configuration probably wont help you though, as the quick disconnect boards are different between the PS3 and XBox 360 sticks. I guess I’ll upload some pics of this beastly wire job.


#6

It would be great to see your pics. I am planning to mod a 360 TE with ps3 SE board and want to maintain all fuctions except the turbo LEDs. I especially want the LS DP switch to work. Is it as simple as connect the switch from one board to the other since both of their grounds are connected? The reason I want this is because I want to use it on certain emulators don’t take pov hat input, but the damn 360TE doesnt register LS on pc (funny is their PS3 pcb and 360 fightpad register with no problem). Anyway your pics will definitely come handy as a guide. Thanks.


#7

Since you’re using PS3 pcb from an SE and are primarily using that for PC, I would just leave the LS DP RS switch to LS permanently. But if you wanted selection, then you would have to desolder the switch off, then solder wires to the LS DP RS switch on the Xbox PCB. for you’re purposes it seems you really only want the LS DP RS and possibly home button. The Home buttons is pretty easy to wire i think, you should just have to tap the wires directly to the home bar on the xbox board ( may be wrong). Alternatively, you could tie it to the select switch if that doesn’t work. I’ll take a look at the SE quick disconnect bar, and my TE bar again to see if the differences in wiring are posted on it. The wiring for the buttons should be about the same as mine, but reverse i believe. I’ll try to go back and make it more like a guide later if I figure out whats wrong with the start/select issue. Either way, not going the Cthulu way will be a heck of a lot more soldering. Modding this way is kind of fun IMO though.


#8

Wonno, I bought the same sale at Walmart and wanted to mod the stick exactly as you did (it’s why I bought the 360 SE stick). If you could detail your mod extensively I would greatly appreciate it. I don’t care about turbo or home bar either so your current functionality is perfect for what I need.

See, I was mainly a ps3 player until about a week or two ago but my launch ps3 got the yellow light of death during an online match. I immediately went and bought SFIV for my 360, and would like to dual mod my ps3 TE stick for when I get it back.

I’m mostly interested in how you modded the USB, and I’m having trouble understanding what you did with the ribbons exactly. Do I need any more parts than I currently have (PS3 TE, 360 SE)? Did you splice any wires together or anything of that nature? I can handle that if it’s the case. Sorry for all the questions, it’s my first time modding a stick, and the first time I’ve seen a mod like this done (ps3 TE w/ 360 SE chip).

Anyway, I really appreciate the work you did here. It shows me that what I wanted to do is possible. If I can get more in depth with the mod that would be great.


#9

Thanx for the complements, I’ll try to rustle something up soon. I remember searching all around for a week or two until I decided to just jump into doing it. I’ll probably resolder the USBs strength, give, and neatness reasons, and take detailed pictures for you to help you with that. For the USB though you do need to buy part, its relatively cheap, either an IMP or a DPDT switch. A DPDT is available at any electronics store such as radioshack. For the ribbons and joystick, all the wires were cut, stripped, and soldered together in Y form. All my wires and stuff were just spare wires from the SE stick. You may want heat shrink, about 16 gauge for the ribbons and 10/12 for the joystick if i remember right, so you don’t have to go crazy on electrical tape.

Update:
DPDT added. Ribbon one may take a while as I’m tired and Christmas stuff.


#10

thanks for the pics.


#11

Ps3 te modded with 4716 pcb and imp. XBOX side is not working right.

Okay so I modded my ps3 te with a imp board and a xbox 4716 pcb. The ps3 side works fine but when i try to use the xbox side (via switching to rs) only the guide and d-pad works. Start, select, and all kick and punch buttons don’t work. I only wired one ground wire from the 4716. I followed all the tutorials on here 10 fold. I’m I supposed to wire another ground wire from the 4716? Do you guys know what is going on with my stick? Please i’m in desparate need for your help.:sad: