I just got a new ps3 stick and i need to dual mod it to support 360. i noticed the ps3 is without a pcb so would i need to purchase one? i have a 360 pcb from my old stick and i want to use a toggle switch for the mod but where would i use the toggle switch. as in on what lines whould i toggle?
What stick is it?
What PCB is it for the 360?
We can’t tell you to put a DPDT anywhere if we don’t know what stick you’re using. We can’t even tell you if the stick is prime for a dual mod if we don’t know what stick you’re using, or even if the PCB from your old stick is prime for it until we know what it came from.
I’m assuming its a PS3 TE
if that’s the case, the PCB is incorporated into the turbo panel, but you can access most of the signals minus home and the directions on the terminal block
as for the toggle switch, get a DPDT switch and toggle the data lines so D+ and D- which are the white and green wires in your usb
Stickies are cool.
sorry about that I talk ahead of myself sometimes. it is a 360 te stick round 2 i believe, whichever has that ugly bevel and the ps3 stick is the same. the 360 stick is the one i no longer need and i am hoping to use the pcb from that stick in the ps3 stick for the dual mod. i dual modded the 360 stick before but blew it up trying to add leds but the xbox pcb still works. still a little foggy on the toggle switch though
Check out the 2 threads that Jaytoo posted.
The 2nd of the 2 threads is a older thread back when dual-mods was more in it’s infancy that it is today but the fundamentals haven’t changed.
The Double pole Double Throw Switch (DPTD) is used as a PCB Select, for the Data - (green wire) and Data + (usually white wire) lines of the USB.
Red (+5 volts) and Black (ground) are always connected for both PCBs. The DPDT method is very manual way of wiring up everything but a simple and direct metiod for those who know how to wire and solder.
Some people use a toodles’ imp which also acts as a switch, the difference is the imp auto switches base on if the guide button is held down or not while being plugged in
There are also some boards/ Kits that don’t need a switch or Imp for system switching like the Chimp SMD, The TE Kitty, the TEasy that auto detects and 1 piece PCBs like the Paewang PCB.
Note: the TE Kitty and TEasy are made just for the Xbox 360 TE PCBs
if you match all your signals to the pcbs, you don’t even have to double up each input on the button but essentially that’s right
what do you mean by matching my signals?
another thing how would you wire the toggle switch? looks like there are three wires 6 prongs on the bottom, with 4 wires coming from the usb and 6 needing to go out to the pcbs
The PCB’s are both “common ground” – one of the signal lines going to each button is actually just a ground signal, and it’s the same on all of them. As long as you wire up one ground signal between the two boards, you can omit all of the extra ground wires going to the second PCB. AKA only one wire from each button is needed, you just have to make sure you’re grabbing the right one. Seriously though, read the links.
Two of the wires in the USB cable are power (Ground and +5V). They should be connected to both PCB’s, not through the switch. You’ll then be cutting the second pair of wires, D+ and D-; the wire end of these gets connected to the middle pair of terminals on the DPDT switch, and the corresponding wires going to the PCB’s go on either side pair. The DPDT connects those data lines to one PCB or the other, depending on the switch position. For more info and proper instructions, read the links.
Again, Read that first post. The first post is basically the cliff notes of the second post.
You need a multimeter, unless someone else can confirm what I say in the TEs.
Here’s what I’d do:
Take the ribbon connectors for the joystick and the buttons from your 360 stick, and hook them up to the 360 PCB, then mount the 360 PCB where it normally goes in the TE.
Then, take those connectors, and cut off the end that would plug into the terminal strip. Don’t do this to the joystick one.
Unplug the cable currently plugged into the joystick, then plug the one leading from the 360 one into the joystick. Now cut off the end of the other cable (the one leading from the PS3).
Flip over the 360 PCB. You see where the ribbon connectors plug into? Well, those are the individual button labels. we’re going to split the ribbon cable so that it’s not just one solid piece, but multiple wires. Now you see the spots on the terminal strip (where the other ends of the ribbon cables are plugged into)? We’re going to start soldering those wires to their corresponding places on the strip. So where it says X on the strip (And they are labeled, but you can also trace back to the wires connecting the buttons), you would solder the wire for A to the Quick disconnect there on the bottom row… Obvious, but make sure you peel back the rubber protecting the QD. Repeat for all the buttons, the one that’s labeled as ground (GND) you can solder to one of the top row QDs. The rows could be wrong, if you have a multimeter, you can hold one tip on the bottom row, and the other tip on the next QD on the bottom row. If it shows continuity, then that’s ground, and reverse what I said (signals going to the top row, ground going on the bottom). And if you don’t, someone will correct me if I’m wrong anyway, it’s been a long time since I’ve worked on a TE.
Now, with your PCB still flipped over, we’re going to take the wires running from the PS3 board to the joystick, and on the underside of the 360 PCB, you should see where that connector connects, and the labels for that. Those will also match up with the PS3 one, you should see them where it plugs in, if you can’t see where it plugs in, remove the home panel briefly. Match up the corresponding wires, wire them all to your PCB on the underside where the Joystick connector hooks into. Even ground. That gives us two grounds between PCBs, that way if one goes, the other stays intact. Take one wire, and solder it from the point below the PS3 home panel where it either says “Home” or has the home symbol next to it, then run it to the underside of the 360 board where it says XGUILD.
Now, remove both USB cables from both boards, Desolder them if you have to. Now take a single piece of wire, and run it between VCC where the USB cable went on the PS3 to where USB went on the 360. Drill a hole in the cord housing for the DPDT, and screw it into place. Wire the black wire to ground from where the USB cable went on the PS3, and the red to VCC (This is tricky but possible, since we already have one wire there.) Solder the green and white wires to the center points on the DPDT. Now, solder D- and D+ to the DPDT from both consoles, Xbox on one side of it, PS3 on the other. Make sure D- corresponds with the white wire, and D+ to the green. (Obvious, again, but you want to rub the USB cable you’re going to use through the cable compartment too, otherwise it’s going to be hard to get it plugged into a console)
Verify all your connections are solid, check for continuity between ground and VCC (If there is continuity, FIX IT OR YOU WILL SET FIRE TO SOMETHING), then secure the 360 PCB back in place, close the panel. Plug your stick into a console. If it doesn’t light up on say, your 360, then it’s set to PS3 mode, flip the switch, and it should light up.
Thanks a lot guys for the help i think i got it. in the xbox te the signal line is on the bottom but im going to have to test for the ps3 but i understand it. I wish i had found those threads before the last dual mod i did. I have 22 gauge solid wire so i can just plug them along side the quick disconnects and its pretty sturdy without solder, I use a jlw stick so its already split in the ribbon from the last dual mod. must have read mr. mortified comment wrong, i thought he knew some magic that only needed signal to one pcb lol. But i appreciate all the help and i will let you know how it goes
Since I don’t understand what the hell the thread title has to do with dual modding, I’ve decided to change it to something more descriptive.
did not know you could do that
oh one more thing. when im matching the signals for the voltage and ground how would i get those signals to the second pcb? would i split the wire somewhere? or is there a point on either board that allows for me to continue the signal to another board
Both will work. Circuits 101 - any two points that are directly connected can basically be treated as identical.
I find it convenient to connect the two “VCC” and “ground” points on the pcb, then wire the USB cable to whichever one is closer.
… also, if you had read the sticky, you would have found the information.