PS3 T6 Dual Wireless Stick Mod


Modding Guide for the PS3 version of the Tekken 6 wireless stick

This guide is to show how to dual wireless mod the stick. Please let me know if
any part of the guide seems unclear or has an error and I will update it. Please refer to my guide for the 360 version for swapping out buttons/joystick and adding the Neutrik usb adaptor.

Part lists:
1 Leo board (Project Leo: Sixaxis + Wireless 360 dual mod)
1 Sixaxis controller
1 3.7v Lithium ion cell
1 Late version Microsoft wireless controller
2 10K resistors
1 3PDT switch (a DPDT and SPDT switch side by side is fine)
1 Neutrik usb adaptor
1 usb cord
and of course wire and solder

soldering iron
desoldering iron
screw drivers
24mm spade bit + drill
hot glue gun + glue sticks

The first step is to acquire a late version Microsoft wireless controller. The only sure fire way that I know of to determine if you have an early or late version is by taking off the battery pack and taking a peak at the exposed PCB. If you can see a column of resistors labeled R24, R23, and R25, then you got a winner. If you see a bunch of components labeled with an L and then some number, thats an early version. Once you have the late version controller, begin unscrewing all the screws. Dont forget theres one hidden under the barcode stick. These screws require a special bit, but Ive managed to use a small flathead screwdriver.

You will need to remove all the parts circled in red by desoldering them. The parts being removed are the two triggers, two motors, and the +/- battery pins. The connectors that the motors use will be reused later in the mod so be sure to hold on to them. Make sure to be careful when desoldering the triggers as the contact pads can easily be burnt off. Been there before myself, its not fun trying to find alt locations.

Each button pad has a black substance which cant be soldered to. So each button signal pad will need to be scraped to expose the metal surface. As you can see in the picture, I managed to do this by repeaditly scratching the pad with a flathead screwdriver.

These are the 11 spots you will need to scratch.

These are the spots on the back of the board for the LB and RB (left button and right button)

This is how I have the Sixaxis and 360 boards positioned inside the T6 case. The original PS3 board in the T6 will have to be removed from the stick.

To fit the 360 board, I had to cut parts of the case with a dremel. The red outline is the part that I cut at.

It is time to wire the 360 buttons to the Leo board. The outer set of holes on the Leo board is for the 360 buttons.

Solder a wire to the A, B, X, Y, RB, and RT spots on the 360 board to the A, B, X, Y, RB, and RT spots on the Leo board. A 10k resistor will need to be soldered at the spot labeled RT on the 360 and the spot below it.

Solder a wire to the Up, Down, Left, Right, LB, LT, and TC spots on the 360 board to the Up, Down, Left, Right, LB, LT, and TC spots on the Leo board. A 10k resistor will need to be soldered at the spot labeled LT on the 360 and the spot below it. Much caution should be taken when soldering to the directional spots on the 360 board. The contact pads for them are a lot smaller than the rest of the buttons. Also, those contact pads are a lot easier to be ripped off the board. Normally I would advise against the use of glue, but in this case I would strongly recommend putting glue over the connections of the directional buttons.

Solder a wire to Back, Guide, and Start spots on the 360 board to the Back (Bk), Guide (Hm), and Start (St) spots on the Leo board.

Time to wire up the sticks buttons to the Leo board. The inner set of holes on the Leo board are to be wired to the sticks buttons.

Wire the joy sticks wire harness to the Leo board. If you have sanwa joystick wire harness, then the following color code scheme should be the same: Yellow = Up, Green = Left, Red = Down, Black = Right, and Orange = Ground. Wire the joy sticks ground wire to the spot labled Gnd on the Leo board. It is located in the lower right corner.

Wire one pin of each button to ground. Wire the other pin of the P1, P2, K1, and K2 button to P1, P2, K1, and K2 on the Leo board.

Wire one pin of each button to ground. Wire the other pin of the P3, P4, K3, and K4 button to P3, P4, K3, and K4 on the Leo board.

Wire one pin of each button to ground. Wire the other pin of the Start, Select, and Home button to Start, Select, and Home on the Leo board.

Now that all the buttons are wired up for all the boards, time to wire up the usb cords, lithium ion battery, and switch.

There are a few different set ups that can be done with the switch. Each one has its pros and cons. The easiest switch setup I will show for this guide requires a Triple Pole, Double Throw (3PDT) switch. Either two DPDT switches or one DPDT and a SPDT switch will do. For the T6 case, in order to put the switch inside the battery compartment, some holes will need to be drilled through it so the wires for the switch and be passed through.

This is the pinout for the switch (shown as a DPDT and a SPDT switch side by side). The 5v from the Main USB cord needs to be wired to the 5v USB pin on the sixaxis and 360 controller boards. The Ground from the main USB cord needs to be wired to the rest of the grounds. Make sure that the main USB ground, Sixaxis ground (can use the ground pin from its usb), 360 controller ground (can use the ground pin from its usb), batterys ground (neg side), and ground for the joystick and buttons are all wired together.

What the switch is doing is allowing only the USBs data signals to go to either the 360 or the sixaixs. It also only allows power from the battery to either go to the 360 or sixaxis boards. So this switch set up only allows the stick to either play on xbox 360 or ps3, but not both at the same time. The benefit of this setup is that it is the easiest to wire up and to understand. The cons of this setup are that in order to recharge the battery, the switch has to be set to the sixaxis. Another con is that either board has potential to be turned on. Another switch would have to be added if you wanted to prevent the stick from turning on by accidental press of the guide button.

Usb pinout for the sixaxis and 360 controllers.

Battery pinout for the sixaxis and 360 boards.

The main USB cord hooked up to the Neutrik usb adaptor.

The pin connectors from the rumble motors can be reused for wiring up the lithium ion battery. Even though I used a higher capacity lithium ion cell in this mod, I can still swap the battery out with the battery from a sixaxis controller because the rumble motors pin connectors are the same size as the ones on the sixaxis.

The end product!


Not knocking the coolness of the mod but it seems more like this is a “Leo dual mod using a T6 case” then the listed title.


yeah I know :frowning:

I originally planned to do two separate guides. One for T6 using the original board + MS wireless controller and another guide for MS + sixaxis/leo. However, I found out after wiring up the PS3 T6 board, that it wasn’t common ground. Its one common line though…the battery’s voltage line. So I figured I’d just combined the guides into one.


Trying to get all the soldering done. Not for teh faint at heart, for sure…


I managed to get the leo soldered up over the weekend. I’m in the process of painting the case now, so I’ll wire up the switches once that’s done. Because of how the wires are routed, I think I may just run the 5v from both boards to the other dpdt switch (in the end it maked my usb wiring neater if I do it that way). I’ve also got to mount the small switch for the LEDs. I managed to fire up the PS3 and confirmed that side works, and the light up mod works as well.


Do I need to wire the ground from the Xbox 360 pad to the Leo Board?

Never mind realized that the ground is linked through hooking up the Battery.


The leo board doesn’t need ground connected to it. The ground spot on the leo board is merely there as an aid for grouping the grounds. I may remove the ground spot in the next batch of boards to reduce confusion.

Will you be making a custom case to put the dual wireless mod inside of? If so, I can’t wait to see what you end up putting it in!


I do have to connect Gnd from the Battery to both pcbs though right?

Please keep the GND. Without it you have to solder a ground directly to the pcb, and I like a through hole option. If anything you could have 2 holes one for buttons and for joystick to make wiring cleaner. It is good to have one source of wires to going to buttons and stick for clean wiring purposes.

I am actually retrofitting an old MS wireless stick and throwing in this board and sixaxis PCB into it.


I charged the battery for the stick overnight on a separate charger and gave everything a test this morning before work. All seem to work on both systems, and the led buttons come on with no prolem. I wired a switch so I can turn them off. Now I need to look at the wiring again to figure out why I can’t get it to charge. Does it matter if the 5v usb is connected to the dpdt switch or if everything is chained together?

Now that I think about it some more, I wonder if it’s the usb cable I’m using instead of soldering to the usb points on the sixaxis pcb. Since I’m using the ground from the battery terminal on the pad, I didn’t wire up the ground from the usb cable I attached to the connector on the sixaxis pcb. The main usb is connected to the ground chain, so I know that’s ok. So, if I’m thinking correctly I either need to wire the ground from the usb cable on the sixaxis to the other grounds or remove the cable and solder wires to the usb pins on the board, correct?


I wired up the 5v from the 360 pad and sixaxis pad together with the main usb 5v line. As I did the same thing with the ground including the battery negative side. Only the d-,d+, and battery positive are wired to the switch.


Hmmmm. I thought you could use either or for the ground (either the battery terminal ground or the usb ground). Eh, I could chain everything together I suppose. I’ll just need to rething some of my wiring and soldering.

Edit: It’s working now. I did need to run a ground from that usb cable on the sixaxis pcb. It’s charging with no problem now. Can’t wait to get this wiring cleaned up and post up pics of the stick!


noobie question

I feel dense even having to ask this, but what is the TC terminal on the Leo Board for?




thanks, jdm!


Gummowned, I’m almost ready to go ahead and start a new project using your Leo. The only thing that worries me are the cons of this switch setup. I’m a 360 player so does this mean I wont be able to charge the battery while playing on the 360? Also, I don’t understand the part about accidentally pressing the guide button and turning on the other PCB. If the 3PDT switch is set to sixaxis, pressing the guide/home button would bring up home and if the switch is set to 360, pressing the same button would bring up guide. I don’t understand how pressing the guide/home button could power up the other PCB. Please enlighten an poor soul. Kick-ass work BTW.


Charging is done thru the sixaxis, so no, you wouldn’t be able to charge while playing the 360 (I don’t think there’s a charger built into the wreless 360 controller, is there?). It’s not a huge problem; just recharge after you’re done for the day.

If I’m not mistaken, Gum was saying if you would need another switch if you wanted to ensure someone couldn’t accidentally press the guide button and power up the stick (as if you wanted a on/off switch for the stick as a whole). Otherwise, the stick will behave just like your pad, where pressing the button powers it on every time.


a very helpful tutorial…thanks Gummowned…

I have 1 question though…

Is it necessary to use resistors for the trigger buttons? why?
I’ve never hacked a pad, that uses triggers… …:confused:

but I’m planning to use RB and RT as the 5th & 6th face buttons.

edit…2 questions…actually… :smiley:
I rarely play on xbox360…especially with wireless pads…

so, how important is the connect button??