Ok today I was using my home-built stick like any other day. However mid match one of my buttons appeared be stuck on auto-fire,not sure if that’s the exact term but basically it was like it was being held down. I immediately opened it up to see if a wire was crossed but there were none. What was more odd was that even after I took all wires off of the pcb the L2, aka the button from earlier, was still stuck on autofire. There were no wires or strands what so ever to cause this and now I’m concerned. I have no idea what could be causing it and if it’s a short that means I just blew 50 bucks on a chip. Any idea of what is going on here?
If you’re handy with a soldering iron, you can try to add a pull up resistor to the L2 signal line, but there’s no guarantee that it would work. You could try contacting the manufacturer to see if they can be of any help. Hit up the Akihabarashop thread.
Thanks I’ll hit the thread up and hopefully I won’t be out of a chip.
Toodles is correct. Jaleel from focusattack sent me a returned ps360 to play with.
Upon initial plug in, there where several lines that seemed to be firing on fast turbo (always pressed)
On first attempt, I plugged in the stick, pressed the turbo and corresponding button to change the turbo speed.
The auto fire could be set to the three different speeds, but never full off.
Take something like a 100ohm 1/4watt resistor (pennies at the store) and solder it to the underside of the screw terminal (there is enough solder there already) from the VCC line to the culprit button underside
Alternatively, if your always on button or direction signal is on the same side of the board as the VCC screw terminal. Simply insert one leg of the resistor into the VCC line screw terminal (with the VCC wire of course) and the other leg into the culprit screw terminal (with the corresponding wire of course)
Presto magic! The PS360 behaves!
Hopefully by now you have not reached a point in frustration that you disposed of the PCB, as this is a very easy fix!
Minimum needed to breadbox a PS360
100 ohms sounds a little low. Using that VCC screw terminal, wouldn’t that be exactly the full 1/4W of power wasted as heat whenever the button was pressed? That much power right at the power rating sounds like a fire hazard. I wouldn’t think of using less than 1k ohms unless the board refused to work at that.
Wouldn’t it be better to use the 3.3v from the voltage regulator instead of the 5v USB power? I think the VCC screw terminal is direct connected to the USB VCC instead of the regulated 3.3v.
I got a used ps360 board from someone in the Trades here with the same issue - both are constantly on/“pressed”, but with two buttons. Would I need two resistors, or just daisy chain to one?
And toodles, where is the voltage regulator on the ps360?
Just curious did they ever found a fix for the PS360 PCB which kept the PCB stuck on the 360?
I have two PS360 that wont work on PS3 or PC (USB Device Not Recognized)
I know this is an old thread but hopefully you can help! I’m having the same issue but my faults are on both sides of the board with the X, Y and Select button. The PCB worked fine for months then just decided to crap out on me. I’m testing it now with no wires connect. Can I wire all three fault screws to the VCC or would that be a bad idea?
hi, I have 1 troble with a ps360 pcb (not the ps360+), my friend gift me a hitbox, with this pcb, works fine on the 360, but in the ps3, when I press up and down simultaneously it goes to the up/right corner, I dont know what to do, i unplug and plug it again, and still do the same.
Nothing is wrong.
That is how PS360 act normally.
Install SOCD Cleaner.
Make your own.