PS360+ Support, do they ever respond?


Perhaps someone on this forum can help me out because I contacted Akishop Customs twice and have had no response and google and youtube have given me nothing.

I just wanted to say overall I am very happy with the board and for the most part it is working great for my needs which is PC, Raspberry Pi, XBox Original and XBox 360. However, I am having issues switch between LS/RS and DP in Xbox360 mode (haven’t tested on any other platform).

According to the documentation

I should be able to press the following with firmware 1.22 to 1.66

LSB = Select + 2P + 3P
RSB = Select + 2K + 3K

But this does not work.

If I enter configuration mode by pressing SELECT + 1P, 2P and 3P and moving the joystick:
Left = LS, Up = DP, Right = RS.
Press START to exit Configuration Mode. Then it switches between LS/RS/DP however this is not easy to do while playing games so I figure this cannot be what is intended and it makes more sense to switch on the fly by pressing.

LSB = Select + 2P + 3P
RSB = Select + 2K + 3K

What am I missing or doing wrong? What is the purpose of configuration mode?

Just a suggestion but it would be even better for gameplay if it was only a 2-button press and hold to switch for example LSB = Select + 3K and RSB = Select + 4K once I release then it switches back to DP but remembers where LSB or RSB position. To forget the position, you could press Select again would reset position of LSB or RSB to default. Does that make sense to anyone else ?

Not sure what this one does, can anyone explain? And again, it seems to me that is just too many button presses to do in normal game play.
LSB + RSB = Select + 2P + 3P + 2K + 3K


If I’m not mistaken, LSB and RSB mean Left-Stick-Button and Right-Stick-Button; ie, Sony Controllers’ L3 and R3.


Thanks, I know what they are I am trying to figure out why when pressing the combinations don’t they switch.


Just so I’m clear, you’re looking for an easy way to switch between DP, LS and RS, right?

I’m looking at the manual myself as well, and the only way they’ve described how to do it is the Config mode.

From what I’m reading, the key-combinations for LSB and RSB aren’t intended to be switches to the left-stick and right-stick. They are “shortcuts” to activate the left-stick and right-stick clicks (L3 and R3), so they don’t serve your purpose anyways.

Remember, LS (left-analog stick; ie, the actual moving of the analog stick) =/= LSB (left-stick button; the L3 click you get when pressing the middle of the analog stick). It looks like you’re using both abbreviations interchangeably.


Ah, good catch on that LS vs LSB!

It seems bizarre that they would make it so complicated to switch it makes game play impossible. The Brooks UFB actually has a toggle switch and I was going to buy one but no xbox original support and they support person was extremely rude so turned me off the company.


Even if they made it so you press SELECT to exit config mode would be 1000x better because pressing Start pauses the game and you have to press start yet again to resume…not a great idea.

Enter Configuration Mode by pressing SELECT and 2P together.
Now you can choose LS/DP/RS by moving the joystick:
Left = LS, Up = DP, Right = RS.
Press SELECT to exit Configuration Mode.

The ultimate would be to hold the key combos below and move joystick and when you release it goes back to DP.

LS = Select + 3K
RS = Select + 4K


Can anyone confirm that the Brooks actually does the switching of joysticks and d-pad on the fly if using the slide switch?
I have a feeling I will never hear from Akishop.


IIRC they made the button combinations more complicated simply because SO many people were doing B-links with USF4 that it was causing problems with people entering config mode while trying to B-link their ultra.

It was never intended to be a fast switch over. You’d want the Brook board if you want quick swap of LS/DP/RS via their broken out I/O


Not sure what B-links or USF4 is but that news sucks because it makes the board absolutely useless and me out of $200.
Now I have to blow another $200+ on some Brook UFB’s…


B-Link is P-Link (Priority Linking) using the Back button (Xbox360 equivalent of Select, which makes the PS3-equivalent term “S-Link”)… USF4 = Ultra Street Fighter 4. There are tutorials, written and in video, explaining P-Link, but basically you press two (or more, if you’re crazy enough) buttons in such a way that the second one is pressed one frame after the first whereas the highest-priority one (according to the button hierarchy where Back/Select < LP < LK < MP < MK < HP < HK) comes earlier and is interpreted as though it were also pressed when the second button is pressed (in the subsequent frame), because of the way the game interprets button presses. It essentially gives you two attempts (in two consecutive frames) instead of one at landing a button press inside a given window (for linking). It’s heavily abused in SF4, especially for the strictest links (1-frame, 2-frame…). If done correctly, in Training Mode with Key Display On, for a MP~LP P-Link at frame n you see MP and at frame n + 1 you see LP and MP (the LP is essentially ignored/overridden by MP).

Since Back/Select is the only button lower in the hierarchy than LP, it’s the only way of using P-Link for increasing the chances of landing a link off of LP.


So basically cheating and they wanted to stop it and made they card useless for any other games other than fighting games (and games that use dpad only) ?
That is the craziest thing I ever heard, why would they care ?

It is terrible they have a site up and selling a product that they no longer support.


Heheh. Calling it cheating is… veeery debatable. It’s an input exploit that’s been completely incorporated into what is normally expected of players in Street Fighter 4. It’s not really reasonable to expect a player who isn’t decidedly casual not to use P-Link, I can tell you that (of course, as with almost everything, there are exceptions, but I said what is generally viewed as the standard, as far as I’m aware). I believe the people behind the PS360+ didn’t want players to accidentally enter config mode when using S-Link, so they made the config macros particularly unlikely to be entered unintentionally.

I believe it’s fair to say that the controller PCB landscape around here doesn’t cater to people expecting to use the dpad and analog sticks at the same time. If someone disagrees with this statement, I’d like to hear it - the notion makes me curious.

60 Second P-Linking (by desk)

SF4 / SSF4 Plinking Slowed Down and explained (by Fighter101)

Training Street Fighter Ep.1 [P-Linking] (by desk)


Fair enough but if I was a manufacturer of such a pcb I would look for a way to make my product appealing to all types of users.

One option would be to have the crazy enter the configuration mode to enable quick switching. So if I am playing a game that requires dpad and analog then it works and if I am into fighting games then use the default…simple.

However, without being able to actually test how game play would be it is difficult to say what would be the best option.

I was thinking of another option would be to turn some of the buttons into a 4 button pad when switching ls/rs on that would give the most control and ease of play.

Enable Quick Switching
SELECT + 1P, 2P and 3P
Press START to exit Configuration Mode


Button Layout would be something like this.


Turn off by Just press the SELECT button.

Thoughts ?


Problem with that is that there is much less of a modding market for other types of games than fighting games.
I personally love to play Mario and Megaman with my arcade stick, but the percentage of people out there who specifically go out of their way to buy/build custom controllers (of whatever formfactor) for game genres other than fighting games is pretty close to nothing.


Seriously, arcade cabinets are huge and so is the emulation scene. Now not sure how that compares to fight sticks but I can tell you I dropped several thousand dollars on my arcade cabinet build and I could probably made a dozen fight sticks for the same price. So a company like akishop should see the big picture and the money potential because if this could work effectively I would buy dozens of these boards a year, plus buttons, monitors and all the other crap that goes into cabinets.


Should have probably looked at this posting


Non related but

why would you ever pay 200 USD for a ps360+? even for 2 of them :s


It was Canadian Dollars and with cables, duty and shipping came to ~200.00
Brook UFB is even more money.

#19 :slight_smile:


What would be great is if the boards (ps360+ and Brooks) would have hook ups for wiring analog sticks.

Then you could get singles or dual analog sticks and mount them on the control panel.