Question Regarding Building a Stick


#1

I’m somewhat new here, only created an account recently. If I make any mistakes, or if this is in the wrong place, please let me know!

I’ve had a goal in mind that I’m finally working on: getting a ps2 fight stick. So far, I’ve purchased a shell so to speak, a Hori PS1 fightstick that seems in decent shape, except the board (motherboard?) seems to be broken. I got it so I could use it as a shell, so it’s all good, plus it was dirt cheap. Here are the pictures.

http://imgur.com/a/KlA8n

Basically, since I’ll need to replace the internals, I was wondering what I would need. I think I could use an arcade encoder like this one…

But I’m not sure how I would integrate the turbo switches, if that’s even possible. Obviously, I’m going to replace the joystick and buttons, but first I thought I should start with this. Please let me know what you think!


#2
  1. You’re on the right board, so good news!

  2. Read the rules and stickies BUT you’re not asking something that’s been asked a million times in the past week. You’re only about the third person this week asking about this joystick. Another fellow asked about the Saturn version of it a day or two ago!

Don’t worry – it’s such an obscure joystick relatively speaking that there isn’t a lot written about it on SRK. Most of the SRK FAQ’s and Tutorials cover the joysticks released since 2004 with not much coverage on 1990s-era joysticks like the you have in that pictures.

With the motherboard PCB of the Hori Fighting Stick gone or broken(?), you definitely need a new PCB. I don’t know about that USB/PS2 encoder thing they’re selling online – no idea of the quality of that product. Something similar to that product was announced in another thread but I don’t see how it can be used to fix this joystick. My understanding is that it’s not so much a console/controller interface so much as a link between console-specific joysticks and JAMMA/MAME/other arcade hardware. I don’t know that the encoder PCB would work directly with a PS2 controller that lacks a motherboard PCB in other words… New news to me!

I HAD that style of joystick once; I actually had the Saturn Hori Fighting Stick SS but it was virtually identical to the PS1 model. Just a few wiring differences, different system plug, and Select button on the PS1 model – otherwise they were practically the same joystick.
Here’s the bad news – the original buttons were contact buttons that registered hits through pressure on black-covered electrical spots on the PCB. Most D-pads are still the same way. With joysticks, as the cases got bigger and nicer, they switched to arcade parts and went to quick disconnect line connections. QD’s generally work better for joystick buttons than pressure registration. QD buttons are generally softer-feeling and more responsive than pressure-contact buttons.

IF you really want to reuse that joystick case with a new PCB, you have to get new buttons with terminals that connect through quick disconnect lines unless you can repair that original PCB/motherboard. I don’t know the spacing between the buttons on that Hori joystick case anymore – I haven’t owned a joystick like this one in close to five years now(!) – but I suspect it’s marginal and might not work for 30mm Sanwa or Seimitsu buttons. You’d almost certainly be looking at enlarging the button holes to fit in wider buttons which may or may not work with this joystick case. You’d need a step-up/drill tool to do this with any accuracy.

Forget about the Turbo buttons… Unless you have a copy of the original PCB, they won’t work with a replacement PCB. They’re cheap levers like most Turbo switches are and were held in place by the original Hori PCB if I remember correctly. Most replacement PCB’s don’t support Turbo functions. It’s just not generally needed.

Space in that joystick case is tight from what I remember. Any replacement PCB has to be relatively small. Good news is that most replacement PCB’s on-market will probably fit that case with good space management. Bad news: only two replacement PCB’s directly support PS2/backwards compatibility. Which you choose depends on the level of functionality you want. PS360+ is best if you plan on using a joystick with an XBox 360 in addition to a PS2 and PS3; the MC Cthulu is a significantly less expensive choice and better if you don’t plan on using this controller with an XBox 360.

You’d be better off reusing the original control lever/joystick in that joystick case than trying to fit a JLF or Seimitsu LS-series joystick. The case is tight and designed so you’d have to literally create a mounting to fit an alternate joystick into that case IF you can find a model that can be integrated (LS-33? Ascii clone joystick? Another Hori joystick lever?). That most likely means drill holes and flush rivet studs.

The size and internal arrangement of a lot of 1990s joystick cases really works against rehabbing them for the most part or upgrading with arcade-quality parts. On the other hand, if you do have something nice you appreciate like the Hori Namco PS1 joystick OR a Dreamcast Agetec Joystick or even this one – and I think a couple of SRK members have done things with this style joystick --, you might make that extra bit of work turn in your favor. (I modded three Agetec cases – that was enough to cure of any more impulses to mod more retro-joystick cases!)

*** You might want to take pictures of the motherboard in its current state (IF you still have it!) and show it to other SRK members. *** A couple of these guys are electricians/electrical engineers and might have suggestions on how to fix it IF it’s salvageable! You might not have to spend a lot of money to fix this joystick… A lot of joysticks just develop small problems that can be cured with TLC if you don’t want to gut them out and refit them. You’d be able to save everything and use in original stock condition presuming there’s nothing but a minor problem with the joystick in the first place…


#3

@seanthemanpie

For the Joystick level, I just recommend reconditioning it rather than replacement
a New Spring and switches, maybe some cleaning and lubrication and the joystick it self would be fine.

You can reasonably replace the buttons with any 30mm Sanwa or Seimitsu buttons
I have not used the No Delay Arcade Encoder before but I heard it isn’t bad.

As for Turbo I say your going to lose it if you replace the original circuit board.


#4

Sorry for the delay! I’ve done some research, and I’ve attempted some more taking-apart. So far, I can’t seem to get at the other side of the board, it seems attached to the top of the unit somehow. However, I have managed to get at the cord connector:

http://imgur.com/Utv1F6M

The issue at hand (I should have mentioned this earlier) is that whenever I plug it in, it always registers a down signal from the stick, regardless if the joystick is even connected to the board. This basically leaves two culprits, either the board or the cord, and I’m leaning towards the cord seeing as it’s the only moving part of the two. Do you guys know if part is replaceable, or if there’s a way to verify this?


#5

The buttons are attached to the PCB, hori loves doing this for some reason, that’s why it seems attached to the top of the unit.

http://puu.sh/5RPw7.jpg

See this pattern? It looks kind of familiar, kind of like a reversed vewlix. If you want the PCB out you’ll have to desolder the buttons from these locations. It’ll be tricky and if you’re not used to a soldering iron you’ll likely destroy everything, but on the upside if you don’t care about the PCB it’s good training experience.

I don’t think a free-floating wire (as in after you disconnect the wire from the stick) could send a signal to the PCB. How do the connects on the end look? Are they possibly bent or something? So it sounds like the PCB is broken…

You could multimeter it up and see if there’s something going on possibly…

Wait hold on, I’m confused by your third picture, you’re unplugging the controller port from the whole PCB and it’s still sending a signal? Yeah that’s definitely a short in the connector.

Furthermore

The ebay link in your first post shows that the PCB you’re interested in buying comes with this cable, so yes it is possible to acquire. Verification involves a multimeter and some nitty gritty stuff potentially, like opening up the controller port and probing, although I personally would be convinced after plugging it in with no PCB attached and signals still being sent.


#6

I.think its awesome that you want to attempt modding a joystick. Besides people in a forum like this everyone seems to just want to pay money and not work on things. I enjoy modding sticks, its fun for me, especially something that seems like a challenge.
Def sounds like a cord issue, are there any visible kinks in the cord especially where it meets the case on.the outside?
As far as the arcade parts go, I would imagine it would be pretty simple to get a sanwa jlf in there or a ls56. If the joystick is common ground super easy, if not, it will require just alittle effort. If clearance is an issue you may beable just to grind the bottom of the shaft abit or swap in the original stick shaft if it fits. Done that on a fs3 before. Both methods actually. As far as the buttons go, it really depends if 30mm buttons will work with your space or not.
Good luck


#7

Is there a sticky for using a multimeter on pcbs? Like general setting used etc? If so it would be good to read that and also read alittle on soldering. Those are two important things


#8

As far as an introduction to modding, darksakul posted [this](General Troubleshooting & Repair Guide but for multimeter and soldering use I don’t believe there’s a beginner guide on here, since there’s so many online resources.

Such as this which is what I found in 0.1 seconds using google.

Essentially don’t try to measure amperage on a PCB unless you know the probe points extremely well.
Also don’t cross the probes while probing (although this one should be common sense).


#9

Nsc- good link, I looked over it quickly, there is a wealth of info on there.

Sean- any new developments?


#10

Sorry for the delay guys! I’m about to leave on a trip for a few weeks, but before I go I wanted to order the new encoder to replace the board. Naturally I’ll be updating the heck out of this thread when I get back! I think for now, I’m going to try and buy replacement buttons and a replacement encoder similar to the one I first posted, but what do you guys think? As you mentioned, I may have to enlarge the button holes a little, and I would like to keep the stick if possible (though possibly replace it in the future). Let me know, I leave in 24 hours!


#11

Oh! And I was wondering if you guys knew what I should do for the start/select buttons! Can I keep the ones I have, how hard would keeping them be, etc (as you guys mentioned, I probably won’t be able to do much for the turbo buttons).


#12

Somewhat off topic but the first thing I thought about that stick was "Dremel out that turbo area and put in one of those $30 tablets"
XD


#13

If I had that stick, I would try to make a custom plexi for it, alittle thicker than the usual artwork plexis. That way I could change the button lay out to 6 buttons and in a layout config you want, move the joystick hole further down and to the left for comfort. Ditch the original PCB all together, add a hacked ps PCB in there. Doing this would mean laying your new plexi over it, tracing all the button holes and joystic hole and then cutting it out with a dremel, hole saw, etc. You would even add two 24mm buttons to the plexi for start and select. It would also mean custom fitting a joystick in the case. Not hard at all. I could get a ls56 in there. Like I said, that looks like a fun project.


#14

I didn’t see that encoder you were talking about. It looks like a easy alternative and already has the qds for the buttons and plug for the joystick. My only concern is quality, lag issues, and if the thing even works properly.

If you don’t mind me asking what city are u located in?


#15

Vancouver, BC!


#16

Ok, so I’ve just ordered the $20 ps2 encoder! For now, I’ll just want to try hooking it up to the joystick, and go from there. I’ll post here the moment I have some updates, but that will be a little over two weeks from now, due to my holiday trip. Talk to you guys then!


#17

I’m back! Then encoder seems to work just great, I’m now going to order some replacement buttons. The ones that were included seem a little sticky. Would these ones do the trick, or should I order some others?


#18

Those are not Sanwa buttons, just some dodgy knock off.

You’ll be wanting 30mm buttons, either Sanwa (OBSF-30) or Seimitsu. IIRC you will need to file off the tabs around the button holes, aside from that the 30mm buttons should fit in.

If you wanted a new joystick then the Seimitsu LS-33, 55, 56, 58 series can be installed with next to no modding. I wish all budget Hori sticks were like that : /


#19

Thanks, that’s good to know! Any recommendations on where to purchase these parts?


#20

Where do you Live?


http://www.focusattack.com/

for USA

If you’re not USA then look around a bit I guess?