Questions about dual modding a TTT2 WiiU TE stick


#1

First I would like to say thank you to the entire tech element of the SRK/FGC. This site (along with slagcoin and Youtube videos, most of which I’m betting have their roots here) has been an invaluable resource for learning.

So, here’s where I’m at:

I picked up a WiiU TTT TE stick on clearance from Madcatz with the intention of playing Wii/VC games and PS2 (additional classic consoles and pc are a bonus). After doing tons of research here (and everywhere else I could find useful information), I decided to go with a Cthulhu MC RJ45 setup (360 compatibility is a non issue, I’ve already Sanwa modded a Brawlstick for that), which I would like to dual mod in order to keep the Wii cable. In the worst case scenario I, could easily gut the Wii PCB and use the Cthulhu’s RJ45 Gamecube compatibility (with a mayflash GC to Wii adapter if needed, at extra cost), so I have a fallback plan. I definitely need more practice soldering (the soldering needed for Cthulhu RJ45 looks to be well within my capacity), so I’m looking for the least destructive/invasive means possible, which lead me to the terminal method. I haven’t dug enough into piggybacking the PCB’s directly to feel like I understand it on the level needed to attempt it.

This is a rough MS paint sketch of how the TE is currently wired, minus the ribbon cables going from the terminal strips to the Wii PCB:

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v680/loner92/Existingwiring.png[/img]

…And here’s the plan I have. Disregard the lack of details or accuracy on which buttons the Cthulhu wires are going to, this is simply to illustrate the concept. I’ve also left out the RJ45, as the drawing is already a mess, and I feel confident I know what needs to be done there:

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v680/loner92/proposedcthulhuwiring.png[/img]

The assumption I’m making is that one whole strip of the terminal must be going to ground, so in theory I should be able to bypass setting up a daisy chain ground. If this is correct, which strip is ground (closer or further from the mounted ribbon cable)?

My next questions are on wiring the stick itself. Looking at the bottom of the JLF, one odd looking post(?) on each corner says “NO”, and the other says “COM”. All the diagrams I’ve studied on wiring these sticks use a signal and a ground wire for each direction rather than the wiring harness. If these posts are what I’m supposed to attach the Cthulhu wires to, which of each set is ground? Would I be soldering directly onto them? Would I be better off peeling a section of the wiring harness apart and splicing to the Cthulhu, then relying on the existing JLF ground? I ordered an extra JLF harness just in case things get messed up.

Finally, I’ve read over and over that both boards must have power when dual modding, despite the fact that I won’t be sharing a cord with this setup. Looking at where the Wii cord attaches to a small PCB underneath the main Wii PCB, I see a red wire (which I know is the power wire for USB) separated by one empty space from the rest of the cable wires. Is this a suitable location to connect the Cthulhu for power? If nobody knows for sure, what do I need to do to find out?


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#2
  1. Look at the bottom of the terminal strip to see the PCB. You can see light green and dark green. One row has individual traces and one has all of them together. The ones together are ground. Use a multimeter to be sure and gain extra EXP.

  2. Google image search “Sanwa JLF Pinout” and you will find a million examples. Once again, don’t forget to test with a multimeter first, there are erroneous photos online and you don’t want to rely on others. You want to verify yourself.

  3. I’m unfamiliar with the WiiU version of the TE, but if there is an individual JLF cable coming out of the PCB on the bottom when mounted, you likely have the solder points for the pins on the top side (just like a PS3 Madcatz TE PCB) and they would be labeled with the directionals as well. Just solder to those.

Other than that it looks legit.

Photos or no more help from me! :slight_smile: Have fun!


#3

Thanks for the help, I appreciate it. I confirmed which side of the strip is ground, and I’ve also confirmed which JLF harness wire is which. Here’s what I’ve got:

JLF harness wiring, with what I believe to be the power wire from the Wii cable circled (should have used a larger font). Digging around online, I found pinout guides for male Wii cables. This joint read 000 while probing the corresponding connector location. Strangely, I also got a reading of 180-181 on the next two joints, but looking at the PCB I’m fairly sure I’ve got the right one. Assuming this is the power wire, is this a suitable location to supply power to the Cthulhu? :

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v680/loner92/JLFharnessmounted.jpg[/img]

…And here are the JLF posts I mentioned, with what I’ve confirmed to be the ground posts circled in red:

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v680/loner92/jlfgroundpoles.jpg[/img]

What I would like to confirm is whether or not I could use the corresponding JLF posts (the non circled ones) to wire directly to the Cthulhu rather than risk creating solder bridges where the harness is wired. Again, I’m not super confident in my ability to solder cleanly, and am trying to avoid soldering onto the existing PCB as much as possible (particularly where I would need to solder multiple wires close together). If I understand correctly, it should be the same electronically, and I should already be grounded through the harness. If additional grounds are needed, adding them is no problem- I’m just unsure.

Also, as a more general question, is wire splicing a workable substitute for board soldering when it’s doable, or does this cause too much signal loss?


#4

I had a “D’oh” moment tonight while enjoying NYE festivities- I can check my post theory with the multimeter the next time I have the stick open. I’ll post pictures and results once I receive the parts from Focus Attack.
If anyone else looking at this catches something I’ve got wrong, please let me know.

Assuming this all works correctly, I may make a youtube video for others looking for a minimal PCB soldering Cthulhu dual mod method.


#5

Project was a success.


#6

I want to multi-console mod my TTT2 WiiU/Wii stick also But did you keep the WiiMote connectivity? Any help would be much appreciated. I would like to use a Cthulhu but I’ll probably use a PS360+ because I suck at soldering. Unless I can get someone do do it for me or teach me. lol
Good job on your mod btw. Any pics of the inside of that? Thanks


#7

Yeah, I kept the WiiMote compatibility. I’ve actually swapped in a PS360+ at this point (put the Cthulhu in a 360 Brawlstick). I’ll see if I’ve got time to pop it open for pictures tomorrow. The only thing I ended up doing different was splicing the joystick wires rather than soldering to the posts (too much stress on the solder joints every time I popped the case open).


#8

You spliced into the harness for the JLF?


#9

Yep. I separated the wires and spliced in with small wire nuts. I was still afraid of creating a solder bridge at that point.


#10

Ok. Ya. I hate wire nuts. I always go for butt connectors if I’m not going to solder. I’m sure it works fine though. Glad you got it working. I’m doing something similar with the Wii version and a 360 MCZ Pro PCB.


#11

Butt connectors were my first thought, but the harness wires are so small that I worried they would slide out.


#12

That’s very understandable.


#13

That is awesome! I just ordered 2 of these. (really GREAT deal right now) I can’t wait to see the pics of your mod. I’m pretty much going to do the same thing but I’m still kinda new to dual modding. I dual modded a SFxT Pro with a Cerberus easy mod, switched out the buttons, stick and added LEDs to all buttons. Love it! Anyways sorry I got off track. That stick does that to me. lol…
I’ll probably end up using a PS360+ in one and a Chuthlu in the other down the line. Does it have a plexi glass top you can change the art or will it be a lil harder to change the art? Ooooo I’m excited. Can’t wait to get them.


#14

Without completely taking the case apart, here it is. The stick I have in it right now is a Hayabusa, also swapped out the yellow buttons and balltop for white ones. I had to to some dremel modification in order to fit the RJ45 where I wanted it, as you can see in the closeup. The PS360 is mounted in with a super Velcro like command strip. Also, you may notice that the bezel is cut- this is because I left the damn thing out when I re-assembled , and I had initially soldered the joystick directions directly to the JLF posts as was discussed in my initial questions. I decided it would be better to cut the bezel than re-do the soldering, which I later ended up doing away with in favor of wire nuts. The only soldering you need to do with this method and a ps360 is for the 5v line (which is the red wire you’ll see connecting the PS360 to the Wii pcb).

Spoiler

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v680/loner92/20140418_133807.jpg

Spoiler

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v680/loner92/20140418_133815.jpg

Spoiler

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v680/loner92/20140418_134022-1.jpg

Spoiler

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v680/loner92/20140418_133823.jpg


#15

Here’s the stick next to my brawlstick and one I made from a plastic box (sans the padhack I did for it):

Spoiler

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v680/loner92/20140313_123958.jpg


#16

I have removed a bezel without disconnecting wires before. You just have to finangle it just right.


#17

Forgot to add that you will need to buy a plexiglass panel to add art.


#18

I’m keeping the Wii functionality and adding a MCZ PRO 360 PCB. My goal is for the inside to look stock and I’m well on my way.

Here is the split JLF cable I made:

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a189/gumbyslide/IMAG0036.jpg


#19

Nice, that’s going to look clean.


#20

I also picked up two of these with the recent sale. I’d like to keep the Wii-U functionality and add both a MC Cthulu and Neo Geo functionality. Do the MC Cthulu and Wii-U pcb need to interact in some way? I saw that you have a power wire going from the multi console PCB to the original PCB…is that necessary? As for adding Neo, anything to watch out for?

http://i.imgur.com/zPcPt5m.jpg

Plus…

http://i.imgur.com/YQqjRc7.jpg

Plus…(cut off male end and create two neo cables)

http://i.imgur.com/mrzvGy5.jpg

= win??