Quick question about screws


#1

How would

Amazon.com: Zinc Plated Steel Machine Screw, Flat Head, Phillips Drive, M4-0.7, 12mm Length (Pack of 100): Industrial & Scientific

Work with the top panel of a TE? Would this end up being anymore flush or should I stick with rounded hex sockets?


#2

As long as the size of the screw and thread matches I do not see why not.


#3

They’ll only be flush if you countersink them; that is you’d need to drill a cone into the top panel for the head to go down into. Also, I’m guessing a bit at this one, but if you don’t countersink and the entire head is above the panel, 12mm flatheads look borderline too short. (The stock screws are 13 mm, but that’s from the bottom of the head; flatheads are measured from the top of the head.) On the other hand, borderline short is probably preferable to too long.


#4

Yeah, I might just stick with hex sockets. Although the art on my TE is kind of thick.


#5

Why don’t you try replacement cap sockets? You’ll have to get used to 2.5 (hex key size) head cap sockets, though.

You can get these cap sockets in bare aluminum finish or anodized purple, medium blue, maybe black, and red. Just Google them online and I’m sure you’ll find them OR search for a Mad Catz TE screw thread. This stuff has been talked to death here.

They don’t sell the 3 (hex key, Mad Catz) or 4 (hex key, Hori) cap sockets anywhere that I’ve looked in the use. Largest you’ll find online and in hardware stores that I’ve verified are the 2.5’s. As long as they are 0.70 pitch and at least 12mm long they’ll fit fine in the existing thread holes/hex nut retainer rings. You can even get an Art Hong plexi and they will definitely hold that on.

I can verify this since over half my Hori joysticks (HRAP, modded T5’s) use the 2.5 head cap sockets to hold the plexi and faceplates on…