Quick question about the LS-33 and the LS-55 comparison


#1

I’m planning to get an ls-33 to install into a madcatz se stick. i’ll switch out the shaft and spring of the ls-33 to the one of the ls-55.

i’m wondering about how big the throw and engage is compared to other sticks.

from the comparisons in kowals site, the ls-33 has the smallest engage and throw distance.

however, slagcoin says the complete opposite with the ls-33 having one of the farthest throw and engage distance that is comparable to the ls-55.

so which one is correct? if slagcoin is the one thats correct, i might as well pick up an ls-55 since its similar.

last question. has anyone tried the seimitsu ps-15 buttons? if so, how do they feel compared to the sanwa obsf/n and ps-14gn? the ps-14gn has too much tension for my liking.


#2

I had a stick with PS-15 buttons in them, they’re okay. They feel most like the stock HRAP buttons, I wouldn’t recommend them over OBSF/OBSN buttons or PS-14-G buttons.


#3

In my experience the truth is closer to slagcoins table than kowal regarding the ls-33. If you want a short engage and throw, get an ls-40.
and ps-15s are only preferable if there is a height problem.

edit: you could always try putting ps-14-p microswitches into a sanwa shell if you want the “light” tension mentioned on the table but not a pearl color


#4

my is corect and only my
these are average 10 measurements, and line does not lie.
personal “fell” is false, many men receive different joystick dynamicsas as different throw/engage/spring tession
these are foolishnesses
soory but is true


#5

I realize you put a lot of effort into your measurements kowal, though I think the “feel” of the stick is probably going to be the deciding factor in what you use for a particular game - especially with fgs where, in general, people have shown much wider range in stick preferences over something like a shmup. I’m not the only one who has described the ls-33 as a long “feeling” throw - I dont know if its that particular combination of engage/throw/deadzone lengths or what. Something like a jlf with a hori shaft (another stick used for small enclosures) felt a lot better (to me) in regards to throw/engage/movement/etc, but I have no idea if its actually a shorter throw/engage compared to the ls-33


#6

LS33 not use pivote bearing and use very light spring, engage is light and faster and you feel superfluous road after engagement more strongly
My measurements have 10% mistake (I not have laser and laser lies also:P) it will not give to pit ideally it is normal. On stik with throw over 10mm I can lost 1mm. under 10mm throw stick I lost someting 0,5mm but 0,5mm is too little to say - this stik has longer (or shorter) throw.
fact is LS33 have similar throw how LS32
you feel only different dynamics
many men tell that ls56 has short throw than JLF but true is - have the same throw how sanwa (0,5mm faster it is no big difference) but LS56 have harder spring and better dynamics


#7

The problem with Kowal’s grid is that it doesn’t show the method used for the measurements so people can’t double-check them. If the page had visual instructions showing exactly what is measured and how (from what point to what point) then it would be worth something. Currently it looks like a list of unverifiable personal notes.


#8

all method is on my site+photo
I use dynamometer, protractor, line and set square, air - protractor
only two measurements is personal
diagonal hitting on key input - only my skill hit diagonal
dynamics - how I can quickly make b,f or f,f


#9

This?

http://www.kowal.itcom.pl/ArcadeParts_pliki/artMET.htm

Maybe it’s me and my lack of knowledge of Polish but that seems just a generic page explaining concepts like throw, engage, etc. Not very useful without an English version (is there one maybe?) anyway. The pics aren’t self explanatory and someone who wants to know for instance where exactly the JLF 8mm throw is measured won’t find an answer on that page.


#10

my English is weak, translation must wait

measurement must show differences on among models, not “8mm” on JLF
I use method of maximum inclination in both sides
you must immobilize joystick (in vice) and leaf on bottom, leaf must be close to ball/battop.
border is edge on top
http://kowal.itcom.pl/foto/artMET-PDK2.jpg
move left/right joystick and apply to top set square and record point
http://kowal.itcom.pl/foto/artMET-PDK3.jpg

MD - border max distance in both side
TW - top width ball/battop


(MD)-(TW)
________ =  Throw distance
    2

and you get throw for 1 side

I think it is best method

  • not require the point of reference on bat/balltop label with scale- but is still hard shaft can turns (360 degrees) and scale will shift.
  • not require ideall center shaft position on start (is very difficult on korean joysticks). I used several methods (angle/distance measurement from top centre) but on this method results is more solid.

I do not want to see this post/info on different side