Red Octane joystick vs PS3.... FIGHT!


#1

Hello everyone. I am having some problems and I hope that the tech-savvy users here can offer some assistance.

I bought this wood & plexi PS2 arcade fighting stick direct from Red Octane when they had a table at Anime Expo several years ago.

http://www.home.earthlink.net/~tenori/joystick.jpg

It worked great with my PC using an adapter they sold me that looks just like this:

Anyhow, with the release of Super Street Fighter 2 Turbo HD Remix and especially Street Fighter 4, I thought I’d dust off the controller and try to get it to work with my PS3.

The blue plastic USB adapter was a complete bust. No surprise there since I had to install a driver onto my PC to get it to work.

I proceeded to look up the different PS2 to PS3 adapters and before shelling out the crazy money for one of the discontinued Pelican adapters I’ve been reading so much about, I thought I’d try some more reasonably priced options.

Failure #1 was the following PEGA adapter from ebay:

Failure #2 was one I tried in a local specialty store:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41qzTSZ8s3L.SS500.jpg

None of the above adapters would register stick movements or even a single button press! I think the reason both didn’t work was the absence of a “PS Home” button to tell the system that something was connected. I could be wrong, but I have the following SUMOTO adapter on order:

http://www.spotted-horse.net/images/ebay/ps3/ps2-ps3-sumoto.WM.jpg

OK, all that being said… the reason I’m here:

Is there any Red Octane stick owner out there in my position that was able to find a solution? In the absence of any adapter solutions, is there any tech-savvy modder out there who thinks they could mod my “mini cabinet” stick to work with a PS3 by maybe adding a “PS Button” where the player 1 or 2 buttons are? While I don’t want to spend as much as one of those $150.00 tournament sticks, if you have the know-how and are interested in making a little money in this wacky economy… I’d be interested in hearing from you.


#2

I’m having good luck with the Sumoto, maybe it’ll work for you. All else fails, you could always replace the PCB in your stick with one of those ready made PS3 Cthulu (sp) boards and have a dedicated PS3 stick.


#3

Being a total newb to this sort of thing… the Cthulhu thread on the boards was very informative.

If this next PS2 to PS3 adapter is a bust, I think a PCB mod would be the way to go since (while not quite arcade perfect) this Red Octane stick is still too nice to let go to complete waste.

I’ve never picked up a soldering iron before I don’t even know someone who has one. Luckily, they’re not that expensive. However, before I consider making that commitment, I have a question. To anyone who’s done this Cthulhu mod before… would it be something a complete novice could do without ruining everything? Afterall, if I’m gonna go in there and change out this PCB thing… I might was well put in some of those authentic buttons & stick too. I read a blog someone posted with step by step photos of a Red Octane stick mod and I guess this mini wooden cabinet is cut pretty “mod friendly.” However, when I start having such lofty aspirations, I think to myself… my time and sanity level are worth a little bit of money. So, if this next PS2 to PS3 adapter fails to solve my problem… I’m willing to pre-purchase the parts & take bids on the assembly labor from someone who’s done this kind of installation before.


#4

I haven’t run the mod myself before, but here are my thoughts…

The Cthulhu board (make sure to get a fully assembled one, not the kit) should be pretty easy to swap in there. Just clip the wires off the old pcb if they are soldered or disconnect them from the terminals or however they’re connected. The goal is to have wires coming from your buttons with about 1/4" of the insulation stripped from the end. What you’ll do after that is mount the Cthulhu securely in the case and connect those wires where they need to go on the screwdown terminal strips on the board. Shouldn’t really be any soldering required. :wgrin:

As for modding this out with Sanwa or other parts, I’d guess that would be possible, but much more of a hassle than the PCB swap. I don’t know what kind of buttons and joystick are already in there, but you could easily end up dumping tons of money into this if you don’t already have the tools (drills, holesaws, routers, etc)

To counterpoint that, if you are hell bent on doing a full mod, at least you’d buy your way into a good setup for making customs. That’s what I’ve been doing…

…apparently. :rofl:

In any case, good luck, and I’m sure you can find any help you need on this forum.


#5

Just do a regular happ mod. It’s a direct drop in for any happ button you like rather it be concave/convex and just get an I/L Eurostick.

The pcb issue is a bit sketchy. I really don’t like these proprietary pcbs that certain companys use ie; red octane and Mas. They sometimes stop working altogether. If you’re going to get a cthulhu board get the MC one. At least like that you’ll not only have support for PC/PS3 but you’ll have support for PS2/1, Xbox 1, and Gamecube.


#6

you seem to have a pcb problem in general. i have the 1st adapter that you have and it works for my friend’s soul calibur 2 stick on PC (w/o drivers) AND ps3, albeit with noticable lag


#7

One thing I would retry is if you still have this adapter…

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41qzTSZ8s3L.SS500.jpg

Reconnect controller to it, connect it to the PS3, and then hold down your “Select” button while pushing up on the joystick.

I have one similar to that one and I thought it was broken until I did that. There were no instructions but now I’m able to use my Tekken 5 PS2 stick on a PS3.


#8

I am definitely leaning towards the Cthulhu PCB conversion, but I have another slight problem… my mini-cabinet case doesn’t have enough holes. Again, IF this last SUMOTO adapter doesn’t work (or work well enough) I’m going to have to look around on the boards and see if I can find the name of the tool attachment to drill the proper size hole in either the side or back of my mini-cabinet case for the “PS HOME” button. I have access to a dremmel and a proper electric drill, but if the attachment turns out to be too much of an added expense, I might just hit up one of the local Southern California arcade cabinet dealers to see if they’ll take 5 seconds to drill the hole for me for a few bucks.

Does anyone know what I should use to make this extra hole? I guess I’ll have to find the proper kind of wire as well for the added button since my current buttons already have wires.


#9

Get someone with a 30mm drill press, yo.


#10

OK, here’s an update. I just got the Sumoto and the adapter does not recognize my Red Octane joystick. Whether the adapter is in “guitar” or “joystick” mode, there is still no response from the Red Octane stick. I’m through dumping my money into adapters. It looks like I’m gonna have to change the PCB for one of those PS3 Cthulhu boards.

I found a blog that looks like its gonna be a pretty good guide for me:

The one problem I’m having right now is that LizardLick.com seems to be closed for new orders. I’ve poked around and no one else carries the Cthulhu boards as well as the parts recommended in the above mod guide. The guide recommends the Sanwa JLW-UM-8 joystick (because it can use the same holes already present in the case) and Happ Competition pushbuttons as well as mentions Lizard Lick by name. If someone knows another place I can get the above components in one transaction, I’m welcome to a recommendation.


#11

As I get closer to modding my stick, I’m looking around at what other people are doing with their mods. I saw a user named ShinJN who modded his stick with this little USB output in the back. This part would make for a nice clean looking install. Here’s the photo:

At first I thought it was a Neutrik part like the RJ45 alot of people seem to be using… but the company doesn’t have the part listed on their website.

I don’t have enough posts to send ShinJN a PM myself… so can anyone tell me what the part is called or even where the heck to get it from? I’ve been looking around and I can’t find that same piece anywhere.


#12

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=NE8FDP-Bvirtualkey56810000virtualkey568-NE8FDP-B


#13

Thanks for the quick reply. The above link is for a telcom/ethernet adapter as opposed to the USB one I’m looking for. Neutrik does indeed make the part and its the NAUSB-B. I did some more poking around and I found it online at the following website:

http://stores.channeladvisor.com/daleproaudio/items/item.aspx?itemid=2190748

Dale Audio seems to have the best price by far on this part. The site showed them out of stock, so I called. They apparantly had recieved 25 pieces today and updated the total on the site so I could place the order while I was on the phone with them. Very nice people. They also gave me free shipping when other sites wanted to charge 10-20 dollars shipping on this same tiny part.


#14

my mistake, I was looking it over had that on my mind the whole time. but yeah same company. they make the usb as well. that place has it too.


#15

Would an iL Euro joystick (competition) fit? Or will it be like the Happ Competition stick where you may have to route the bottom or use spacers?


#16

The blog I’m going off of ( http://docstupid.wordpress.com/2008/12/26/red-octane-arcade-stick-mod/ ) says to use a Sanwa JLW-UM8 stick because the holes match the mounting plate and its not too tall for the case. My major problem now is that stupid Lizardlick is closed to new orders so I can’t get my parts all from the same place. I’ve gutted the case and have replaced the 6 major buttons with HAPP competition buttons (perfect fit, just like the aforementioned blog said they would) and now am just waiting to place my stick and PCB order from LizardLick.com so I can get on with my life.


#17

I just sent in an order to ponyboy here for 6 x Happ concave competition buttons and a Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT. I’m guessing the joystick should fit even if I have to make new holes in the casing.

The strange thing about my Xbox Red Octane stick is that the top doesn’t have plexiglass nor does it even have the space for it since the sides and the top are flushed against each other.

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/6320/img0650p.th.jpg

The odd thing is, it has a Zippyy stick with a super long shaft with some who-knows-what buttons. I picked this one up off Craigslist. Take a look at the insides.

http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/203/img0651ujq.th.jpg

The Zippyy stick isn’t bad as it’s meant to be a Seimitsu LS-32 knock-off I believe. I’d keep it in there if it wasn’t for the long shaft.


#18

Mine looked very similar. I need to get 2 more holes drilled in my case. One for the USB output in the back and one for the “PS HOME” button somewhere along the side. I have resigned myself to just having the 6 buttons for Street Fighter and not 2 rows of 4 for other games.

Good luck rewiring. I managed to find what I think is the most convenient item yet for an amateur like myself.

http://www.arcadeparts.com.au/shop/index.php/13/136_Wire_Ground_Harness_With_30_Connectors_.187

No soldering! Not even for the ground wire! Yay!


#19

Does anyone have a red octane template


#20

So how’s your mod going?

For me, I popped in a Sawna JLF-TP-8YT and 6 x iL concave buttons into the box just to see how it looked and felt.

http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/8828/img0767drk.th.jpg http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/4686/img0773k.th.jpg

While I know that the best drop in sticks for the RO box would be either a JLW or a Competitions stick (after routing/scraping the bottom), I only have this JLF, a long shaft Zippyy and a Madcatz SE stick sitting around right now.

The JLF left like this is not unplayable but it’s awkward. I don’t have a router (or many tools for that matter) so I gotta figure out another way. Any suggestions?