I dont quite like using a stock redoctane joystick…but without the proper tools to cut some of the wood down, i cant get either of my snawa sticks in without the shafts being so short. Anyway, whats the best way to mount a plate…without having a dremmel or do I not need one?
The easiest thing to put in there would be a Sanwa JLW-UM-8 with a bat top since that is what the RedOctane stick is a rip-off of. It will be a little short but will work fine. Anything else would require a dremmel or router.
lseelba posted about this a good while ago. If you put a washer under the balltop, it keeps the top from going down all the way on a Sanwa JLW. this way you get more approprate height from the stick.
That is what I did to my Red Octane. I used a nylon spacer that was cut to fit right under the battop. It keeps it from screwing all the way in to the shaft, and it doesn’t get in the way of my fingers. Spacer cost a whole $0.30 or so. The height difference between the original Red Octane stick and the bottom mounted JLW is about a centimeter or so, not noticeable at all. In the picture, you can see where a little of the spacer sticking out of the bat top.
Sorry to intrude on this thread but since we are on the subject of RedOctane sticks I’d figure I’d ask here. I recently modded mine and had to resolder everything. All the buttons work fine but none of the directions do.
If I leave the stick in neutral it automatically registers as down. If I hold up it registers as neutral. Left and right only work while holding up but otherwise up and down don’t work at all. Up has the main ground and I think I may have switched the ground wire with the other one.
So the daisy chain for the direction grounds may not be directly connected to the main ground wire. Would that cause the problems I am having?
And for OrochiSeven, here is the thread I read before getting the RedOctanes:
Instead of creating a new Redoctane thread i will post here.
I have a red octane ready to mod, have the JLW stick and happ comp buttons.
This will be my first project so i want make sure i dont screw it up, can anyone give any tips to make this an easier project.
i’m no expert, but a couple of things I can think of:
1)Keep in mind that the bottom mounted JLW with battop will be almost 1" shorter than the stock stick. That actually threw me for a loop for a few days before I figured out the spacer method.
2)the buttons are plug and play. You wont have any problems with those:)
3)the biggest thing is the PCB. The Red Octane does have a propietary PCB in it, but it goes bad very frequently. Mine went out after a couple of months. If you have any knowledge of padhacking, now would be a good time to put in a regular PCB while everything is apart.
4)lots of quick disconnects if you dont want to solder. You will need some wire, since the stock buttons are all soldered and arent using quick disconnects
Well right now im using a JLW ball since the only nut i have avaiable to me is that small one that came with the stock octane stick.
I wanna put a happ stick in there cause prefer the feel better than the JLW bat…
If you are going to put a Happ in there you will either need to route the wood or make more space at the bottom of the case. I think somewhere in that link I posted someone used rubber spacers to make room and someone else made a new taller bottom panel.
eh, i guess ill stick with a sanwa then…i guess ill jus throw my happ stick back in to my pelican box, After i cut down the sides.
Does the stick still play good with that little nut and washer mod?
Cause i was to tired after hackin my SFAC pad that i didnt get to try my stick out.
How do you remove the buttons so i can take of that plastic under them?
You gonna have to specify…if you talkin bout the redoctance then you just have to unscrew the nut holding the buttons down, and then unscrew the button out of the wood. And then you can remove the plexiglass…id like to remove mine and put artwork under there but i have no pics.
Also im thinkin if i should throw an extra wire on the for the L1/L2 buttons incase i use a dreamcast converter for it. Cause i know certain converters register r1 and r2 as the same button
Thank you OrochiSeven
No problem, i just hope you know what your doin!