Refurbishing a strick: what would you do?


#1

I have an old TMO case that is fitted with a PS1 pcb which is solderless hacked. Unfortunately on the flight over, the solderless hack shook itself to brokenness. Fortunately, I had been thinking of redoing the electronics anyway.

The problem is my case only has two button holes going out the back, so using one for a female jack isn’t really practical without sacrificing functionality. Thus I can only have one cord coming out, unless I go project box, which I don’t want to. This is my traveling/tourney stick.

I really only need PS3 compatibility, but Xbox 360 compatibility would be helpful as well. I’m leaning towards a Chimp + a hacked Madcatz fightpad. I figured I would hit up tech talk to see if there is an option I’m overlooking.

Any thoughts?


#2

Have you considered the PS360?


#3

Interesting option, I actually had not heard of that before. It seems like you can’t have start+select/back work for PS/home though, which is a deal-breaker for me.

Why on earth they opted for a turbo function and not that is beyond me. But maybe I’m reading the install guide wrong.


#4

If you go with the 10 button layout then you would still have the home function for the ps3/360, however you would lose the select/back function. Turbo in this case would be used as your switch button when swapping consoles. Also I don’t know how far you want to go with the mod, but if you wanted to retain the selcet/back you can always drop a 24mm hole on top pretty easily like the old brydo sticks.


#5

I don’t really want to drill anything in this. Here is the stick I’m talking about working on:

If I drill on the top, I run the risk of screwing up the plexi (plus I don’t really want a button there). The back is a no-go as I’d have to redo the finish.

I guess I could live without a select button, but it wouldn’t be ideal.

I just need a new PCB in there, plus redo the atrocious wiring job.


#6

If you are gonna use it only for travelling/tournament purposes, you won’t need a select/back button. Anyway, the PCB I use is the Datel Arcade Pro one. It is more or less exactly the same as the Paewang. Very wide and thin and very easy to work with.


#7

Install a different switch in one button hole (like a rotary switch, but anything that fits and has 4 or more positions should do), use the second button hole for your female jack?

By the way, guess what kind of switch might fit in a button hole and has 4 positions?

http://haywireinc.com/catalog/images/ign1101.jpg

badass


#8

P360 would cut down on your install time due to not having to padhack the 360 but I’m the same with your issue with the turbo having to be a button for the switch of consoles. I;m used to the padhack / chimp set up so personally I would lean towards that but you cant deny the fact that the PS360 would possibly save you some time and cash for the cost of one pushbutton selection. with the button set up you have and the way I am with wanting the stick to have full function start,select,guild I would stick with the padhack/chimp set up.


#9

It may seem weird, but I gotta also go with recommending a PS360. For someone wanting just PS3 and 360 in a custom stick case, it’s the best option. Now if you wanted PS3+PSX instead or PSX+DC, maybe I’d try to talk you out of it, but PS3+360+custom case = PS360. Doing a ChimpSMD+360 fightpad is an option, but the only benefit to doing it is autodetect and a couple of cool LEDs visible from the bottom. The downside to going that route is tons more works doing all of the wiring.
Now, for getting around the ‘two buttons’ problem, I’d suggest getting an Imp (either direct from me or waiting a couple of days for LizardLick to restock). The way I’d wire it if I were you would be to connect the Turbo and Select buttons with a short piece of wire on the PS360 screw terminals. So when you hold Select on plug in, it will go switch to the other console mode.
Next, wire the imp up only using the start, select, guide, vcc, and gnd buttons. Do not hook up the imp to the USB wires at all, you dont want to use imp switching, just the Start+select=Guide functionality. Remember to short the unlabelled solder jumper on the bottom of the board (Imp 1.1)

Hold select on plug in -> Change system
Select button (press and release) -> Select/Back
Select button (hold and press other buttons) -> Turbo (and select)
Start -> Start
Start + Select -> Home/Guide

Fight the peer pressure, and do NOT drill into that case! With luck, you might be able to fit the PS360 pcb and imp into that project box in the stick. If not, you may want to try getting the pcb from a Joytron revolution stick; you’d have to order that from etokki.com. That board doesn’t have the friendly USB jack and screw terminals, but it a small board that can definitely be made to fit in the box and is functionally identical to the PS360 board.


#10

you know you could always opt for a dpdt slide switch at the back to swap out the signals from start/select to home/turbo when you do the ps360

by this i mean cut the back plexi


#11

I have a TMO stick similar to that (with Start on top) that is PS3 wireless now. As far as cable out goes, I haven’t had the heart to drill into it; I left a small USB pigtail hanging out of the cord outlet.


#12

Alright, thanks all. I’ve give this some thought.

I don’t really have an aversion to padhacking/dual modding; this wouldn’t be my first or last of either. I just want the thing to work correctly. If I understand the chimp/hacked 360 pad well enough, it doesn’t appear to be hard install at all. It’s just a matter of hacking the pad, connecting the leads/ground/power to the chimp, then using the female USB out on the chimp, yes? That’s no biggie.

And no, I’m not cutting the case or the plexi!


#13

good thing you’re not doing any cuts wouldn’t want to risk damaging that nice case! good luck


#14

What’s a strick?


#15

the question is will the 4716/fightpad fit into that project box?
i’m having a lot of doubts that it will

also since you’re not gonna cut the case/plexi, maybe you can have some wires/wire sleeving running out with a DPDT through the cord wire along with the usb cord so that way you can have the start/select and home/turbo and not sacrifice any buttons


#16

Man what is every one so worried about? This is Tech Talk. We work with hot soldering irons, inhale trace amounts of flux, and cut art with razors. My recommendation for a button hole stands if your not going the imp route as Toodles suggested, and no it will not destroy the case if you mask the area off with painters tape.


#17

Might be better for him to get it from Akihabara shop since he’s in Beijing and I think Per still has them in stock. Same with the PS360, although I’m not sure if they’re accepting orders for that again.


#18

Couple things:

  1. The project box size is a non issue. I can pull it out and replace it with another.

  2. No, seriously. I’m not cutting the case or plexi. OG TMO cases are not made anymore. I’m not cutting that.

  3. I’m actually in the States for a bit on vacation. So any vendor is fine.

  4. I have no idea where the “r” in “strick” came from. Presumably my keyboard, but beyond that it is a mystery to me.

edit: I have a tourney on Saturday that is PS3, and in NC (IE right by lizard lick) so I think I might just pick up the ChimpSMD, get the stick running and just worry about dual moding later.

http://www.lizardlick.com/Toodles-ChimpSMD_p_584.html

As far as X360 padhacking, the Mad Catz MOV-547160 model 4716 is the favored common ground pad now (or a fight pad)? I have an old madcatz micron PCB in another stick I won’t be using for a while, it is tiny and common ground. I can always use that.


#19

your are set! good luck in the tourney and mod starcade.