Righthanding a Street Fighter anniversary stick


I noticed something. My Street Fighter Anninersary stick is a pretty versatile stick. If I plug it into a PS2-> Xbox One converter, I can use the OS joystick remapping functions, and because the buttons are 2 rows of 4 buttons, American style, I can reprogram up it where up and down are switched, left and right are switched, and punches and kicks are switched vertically, but not horizontally, because you want your quick attacks at your index fingers and your consumable attacks at your pinky.

it may not be the most optimum lefty stick (from the perspective of an Atari 2600 joystick defining right hand stick) but most lefty sticks have the button contoured to the right hand, so when you flip the stick over and try to use it right handed, either one or both of 2 things happen. 1 it “smiles” at you, when a “frown” is a more optimal contour for joysticks, and 2) you have to backcock your left hand at a leftward angle, either or both of which become more uncomfortable right handed than just playing left handed.

Now I found a Street Fighter PS2/Org Xbox Anniversary Stick in the wild for like $20 many years ago. The only problem with it is that if I want the same righty formation on other systems, like Genesis, SNES, Saturn, PS1/2, Xbox, 360 and other systems, those adapters are not likely to have button remappers and are even less likely to have direction remappers. I have to rewire it at the source it is an accurate righty stick.

A couple of questions. 1) in order to mod it, is it as simple are reconnecting wires, or must I hire someone to solder it? 2) if it is as sipmle as reconnecting connectors, are there any directions on how to do it. 3) will I have to reconnect the Original Xbox and PS2 separately, or are they combined in one PCB? 4) how do both Retro adapters like the Tototek adapter as well as the modernizing and cross generation mappers work? Do they all tend to map it relative to the Street Fighter button layout of Quicks ion index, balanced on middle, hard on ring, super on pinky, meaning if it’s correctly that way on a PS2 stick then the layouts will follow naturally without reprogramming? I need something for the dreamcast, preferable with VMU slot, and Game cube, I’d also like 360, Wii/ Wii U classic and Nintendo Switch adapters. The only problem with a switch converter is it doesn’t do “double translations” like ps2-> Xbox One -> Switch or PS2-> PS3 -> Switch. going backwards, I’m looking for Saturn, N64, SNES, Genesis, TG16, NES, 7800, SMS, 5200, Coleco (both standard and super action, I’ve got games that only recognize the standard controller like Qbert’s Qubes and The Activision Decathlon, and others just use the super action) Intellivision, 2600 and Bally Astrocade. If I had a game that would use it, I’d get one for the jaguar and 3DO, but the jaguar may not have pro controls, and the 3DO Tototek adapter doesn’t have daisy chaining for multiplayer, and I have a Goldstar and that has some logical issues if it doesn’t detect a daisy chain port.

If you want to see my real good ambidextrous design, visit http://www.56ok.org/Ambidextrous/index.htm I don’t have much soldering skills, so if someone would like to complete my dream joystick there is a $250 deposit I’m willing to pay for the start of the job, which is more than most whole basic joysticks with no artwork. and more money in the future. I’ll provide the controllers as both sacrifices to the alter of right handedness, as well as collateral to assure payment.


It’s all one pcb, with one set of quick disconnects, very simple to change around, there was another guy who wanted to do the same, the thread is in the next couple of pages, I will edit the link in to this post if I find it


That is the same guy as the OP



Op use the same thread, I linked you a whole tutorial from arcade monk which answers your question with pictures included


I just righthanded the directions by unscrewing the screws in the individual direction actuators and swapping them. Some of the wires are a litle too tight. It’s not designed to be swapped like that. Is this wiring too tight? If it is, is there anything I can do about it? I don’t gave a soldering gun, and have basically only have a screwdriver. Here’s the pic:

Also I want some instructions on how to swap the buttons vertically, but not horizontally. I don’t know how to unscrew and recap buttons and leave the connectors in because these connectors are too caked in.


Just wiggle the quick disconnects till they come off the microswitches, there’s no need to unscrew the buttons, just swap the wires around.

No tools needed, just your thumb and index finger.


Should I assume that the one wire that is connected to other buttons is the grounds, and they a) can stay there, and b) should not be mixed with the other wires, which are the individual wires? Does that mean I change the “unconnected to other button” wires, ONLY, and leave the others as they are? Also it looks, though I haven’t pulled out a plug completely yet, that there’s 2 prongs. a) does it matter which end is which, and b) if it does, are the plugs dummy-proof, meaning they only go in one way, and c) if they are NOT dummy proof what is the easiest way to make sure they work right, and d) would trial and error be dangerous to the buttons, PCB or other parts of the joystick?


Perhaps ancient civilizations were correct and not allow left-handed use at all.

Left-handedness is sinister after all. By the way sinister is from the Latin word sinistre meaning left-handed.


yes the one wire that is chaind to all the buttons is the ground, theres no right/wrong way to put the qd’s back on


The question becomes, “What is righthandedness?” If you were looking from 1970-1985, right handedness is defined as joystick in right hand by the Atari 2600 and Odyssey 2 joystick. From 1986 onward, thanks to the sheer 90% market share of Nintendo in the US, Right handedness has become buttons in the right hand.

For pads left and right handed doesn’t matter much, most people were using thumbs, which are fairly balanced, even though I was using both pairs of index and middle fingers. I was better at Mega Man games, because I had better independent control of jump and fire, compared to a thumb user. But shoulder buttons killed that quick.

But for sticks, it’s vital, because the motion is more different between buttons and joysticks on actual sticks compared to pads. If you’ve been growing up with joysticks before 1985, you find a leftie stick awkward, and on some games that are ambidextrous, the left fire (for right stick) is busted WAY more often than the right fire (left stick). Most arcade owners didn’t repair it until it was unplayable on both sets of hands.

By the way, I was considering calling my model “The Sinister Stick”, off the play on the Latin for left handed. Also checks the box that’s kind of like Wicked Controllers and Evil Controllers, so it would be in that category of controllers.

And notice, I call it righthanding a joystick, because I am right handed, and the original joysticks were right handed. Nintendo changed the definition of right handed in mid-stream. And in the 2600 days, there were accommodations, like buttons on both sides of the stick, Atari 2600 Leftie Pin-swapping dongles, and on the Atari 800 and other computers, Software-based lefthanding. If I were discussing it from a leftie perspective, I’d call it lefthanding a joystick.

And why were there third party accommodations for lefties for the 2600, as well as intentional ambidextrous design for Intellivision, Colecovision, Arcadia 2001, 5200, 7800, and Astrocade, and the oddballs were Odyssey 2 which is right handed and Vectrex which is left handed, but when Beeshu made right handed and ambidextrous joysticks for the NES, why were there no licenses from NIntendo, and no one after Beeshu attempted an ambidextrous design until the Wii, and even that was just “potential” ambidexterity, which most people didn’t use?

And why no software based inversion on fight games, were the buttons so well contoured, that it became nearly impossible to righthand a stick, even with the software inversion?


Thanks for telling me that the 2 prongs don’t matter. I will try that tonight.


Well, I don’t know why, but the connectors don’t seem to want to disconnect. And if I do get them to disconnect, how do I know they’ll stay once I reconnect them and am not breaking them. I want some sort of assurance that the joystick will not be permenantly ruined.


I did meant that just for fun and didn’t mean to insult by the way.

I like you want to call it the Sinister stick by the way


I know you were joking at least 75%, which means there’s about up to 25% seriousness, but for humor to work there must be some element of truth in it. I was just addressing the serious part about how the definition of right handed changed mid stream. I know you weren’t suggesting to going back to putting square pegs in round holes. You were just saying that’s how society dealt with it before, and I said we slipped back into a dark ages mentality compared to before the crash.


I tried that, and now it looks like my connectors are ruined. I asked a bunch of newbie questions. I would have liked a video on how to disconnect the quick connects BEFORE I tried it. I just wiggled it until it became loose, and now the connector looks bent.

NOW what should I do? Would a typical electronics repairman be able to fix it without ordering new button parts? Should I just as well get that repairman to remove the quick connects and reinsert them?

You made it sound way too easy. You should have said this is real delicate and need a professional’s touch instead of a basic implied “anyone can do it”. I was kind of hesitant, wondering what to do, asking questions, which no one answered.


its normal for things to bend just traightn it back


Give me an hour or less and you tell me whether it’s a Trump voter according to Hillary (deplorable, irredeemable .) ) or whether it can be saved and whether it’s better saved by a professional or by myself. I’ve got 2 electronics repairmen for hire in my area. Whether you think I can do it myself, or if a professional needs to do it, tell me what needs to be done. Pictures in a half hour or less. It’s hard for me to post pictures online, so I’ll link to my website when ready.


Here’s the link with the pictures: here Is it broken or not? Other people can weigh in too.


Well it does look like it’s broken. My brother was able to remove 4 wires and switch them. A firth wire came off too but the sixth is stuck on. Andone of those 4 wires are fairly loose.

No one told me which way to wiggle it, so the central pin is snapped straight into the connector.

Is there a way to both a) either salvage or replace the spade connector on the 2 plugs that have the blade stuck inside, and b) re attached a blade into the mechanism of the button for fairly cheap. Could an Electronics repairman do it for fairly cheaply? Must I buy new buttons for the 2 buttons with the blade missing, or can I simply attach a blade? Would it just be cheaper to buy new buttons, and if so, what are the installation instructions for it? And what kind of buttons are on the Nuby SF anniversary stick, even though I know I could change them to anything else that works.


28mm IL screw in buttons would be ideal

The buttons on the stick are generic Chinese clones