RJ-45 MC Cthulhu+ IMP+ Xbox 360 Dual Mod Tutorial Diagram

HRAP EX, no.
HRAP EX SE, no.
HRAP VX SA, yes.

Multiple row, no.

PlayStation on Row 1 was for old Multi-Console Cthulhu because of diode protection.
If new Multi-Console Cthulhu, then Row does not matter.

I’m having a problem across two trimods using this tutorial, the same problem: When I press home, both boards shut down and restart.

Noob here, I have a 360 TE Stick… is there anyone who can mod my stick for me? I dont have the time or patience to do it myself and i dont want to mess it up.

thanks

I’m completely new to this level of modding and have one question (for now) before I begin: If I decided to do the RJ-45 jack-less/drill-less method, will I be able to use a USB cable for both my 360/PS3 uses or will I have to use their respective cables?

No idea how to help. There are about 100 solder points in this mod.

Go to trading outlet. There is a guy name Gummowned who does these, I’m not sure if James and James is still doing it.

You use the same USB cable for either 360, ps3 or PC.

Great Tutorial!

I’m a little late on the draw, but I also do these mods. Here’s my link:

http://shoryuken.com/f226/wts-drds-super-sexy-sale-thread-stick-modding-service-games-more-229218/

I know this thread is pretty much dead, but I have a question and figured it would probably be best answered here. I was following Bomberman’s Guide, but it seems like this thread is more relevant to my interests.

If I’m correct, in his guide he has both the stock SE/TE cord and the RJ-45 jack too. However, I was wondering if it’s possible to follow what this thread does instead in order to only have to use the Ethernet coupler. Basically, what I want to hook up is an Imp, MC Cthulhu and the SE/TE board. I think it’s possible to follow Bomberman’s guide for how to wire everything (sans the part about the usb cable), except for one part of the process which I want to take from this thread. On Step 4 (in your guide), the location from the MC Cthulhu to the Imp when installed in an SE is very far away.

My main questions are:

  1. Can I solder the Cat 5 cable to the MC Cthulhu, and solder 2 wires from points D and E on the MC Cthulhu to the Imp at points D+ and D- to make up for the length difference between them?

  2. Am I correct in assuming that I can actually follow all the wiring in this guide instead to use an RJ-45 coupler, assuming all the same spots that exist on a control pad you would solder to also exist on the SE/TE boards that are inside them?

The difference is this:

Look at the left side, bomberman solders wires to the outgoing USB points (Which don’t exist on today’s Cthulhus, because the USB jack is already soldered on.) You do not need to do this.

Then, look at the bottom left corner, the RJ-45 cable os not connected to the imp at all, it is all solered onto the MC Cthulhu:

With this guide, to share it all down one, connect two of the wires from the RJ-45 cable to the Imp:

Then, connect wires from the data lines of the MC to the Imp (The white and green wires from colums D and E going through all that mess)

Answers to main questions:

  1. I don’t quite understand fully. If you mean, solder two wires from D and E to 1D± or 2D±, then yes. If you mean, connect the outgoing data wires to columns D and E (in the square at the top), then no, because when in 360 mode, there will be mixed chatter between the Cthulhu and 360 PCB, and that wouldn’t sit well. I think my above explanation should make enough sense.

  2. Absolutely. This will work with any Common Ground 360 PCB.

That’s what kind of confused me, in my mind I saw that in Bombermans guide the RJ-45 cable was only connected to the MC, and that he used the original cord from the SE to connect to Imp to not have to make a USB cable (converted to RJ-45) to use with the 360 and PS3.

This lead me to believe that if I wanted to to the same following this guide, I would have to solder all the Cat 5 cable to the points on the MC, and then bridge that and the Imp together at points D+ Grn and D- Wht (from D and E on the MC).

I guess I will just extend the wires from the Cat 5 D and E, without soldering to the MC, to the Imp by using some spare wire since it is too far away to reach with the wire from the Cat 5 cable alone.

Oh, so you -wanted- the USB cable hanging out? Okay. I thought you didn’t. Most people don’t. Then, solder the USB cable to the upper square, solder the RJ-45 cable like normal, without it going to the Imp, then connect columns D and E with two separate wires to 1D± or 2D±, depending if you want PS3 as your main system (Connect MC to 1D), or 360 as your main (Connect MC to 2D)

Eh, I guess I’m not being too clear or mis-understanding something. I wanted to eliminate the dual cords and only use the Cat 5 on the MC, meaning, get rid of the Black USB cable in Bomberman’s guide.

In other words, since the SE and TE PCBs are common ground, I should just follow THIS and act like the Black USB cord doesn’t even exist after I cut it away from the stock PCB?

EDIT: Of course that Xbox board on the left should be an image of an SE or TE board.

You got it dude!

Actually for the Usb cord that is already attached to the SE/TE PCB, I would cut it maybe a foot or so from the pcband use the wires already soldered on there. Saves some work.

Thanks, yea, I’m a little slow. The only other mod I have done was a Mayflash with 360 PCB and it had two cords coming out and looked super janky, didn’t want this to end up the same way.

So I tested this today at a tournament. I just put the fightpad PCB in my stick, and wired the buttons up to the cthulhu screw terminals and used the wire from the fightpad PCB to hook it up. Well it didn’t go so hot. If I hit two attack buttons, LK/MK/HK/LP/MP/down-back would all get pressed. So, I couldn’t do stuff like Wolverine’s drill claw when facing right, I would just go backwards and down every time. Supers would often trigger X-Factor as well.

Oh, and this is after I removed the Home and Start buttons from the screw terminals altogether, as THOSE were shorting as well, causing the game to pause every time I hit two attack buttons.

I thought I read in here that you could use those screw terminals like that? Did I do something wrong? My next plan is to do it up right with an IMP, a guide button, and soldering the 360 pad buttons into those little circle spaces on the Cthulhu. But I’m really curious as to why it didn’t work out anyways.

Question. When I wire the start/select on the Imp. Do I just put them into the Cthulhu screw terminals for start and select? Also, is it the same with the Guide?

Yes.

Does that mean you are making Start+Select = Home?
Because that is the only time you would wire up Start and Select to the Imp.

Yeah I am. Thanks. Errrr so I would have 4 wires then for the start and select terminal? 2 for each. 1 from Imp, 1 from the button.

Yes. You also need a wire from the Imp’s Home going to the Home terminal on the Cthulhu. Be sure that you bridge the solder jumper on the back of the Imp. Do not bridge the DISABLE_HOME jumper on the Cthulhu.

You need to wire Home/Guide too.
And also bridge the jumper in back of Imp.