--------------------Extra Related Info---------------------
**Wood mounting Neutrik RJ-45 **
Mounting Neutrik into wood case
So maybe you already bought a Rj-45 Neutrik or have a Neutrik ruggedized connector, but realized it won?t work for a wooden stick, I used a JLF plate to mount my Neutrik.
The problem with the Cat 5e RJ-45 Neutrik is that it is designed to only screw in through a thin material no more than 3mm thick. You can see the mounting plate and screws and how they fasten to the black plastic piece.
wood mounting Neutrik
One nice way to mount the stick is to hack a JLF plate. (Also you may use some Lexan or acrylic instead as someone in this forum posted)
By default he mounting plate fits in quite nice, but the black plastic part needs a little room. While at this step you want to put the mounting plate and draw in the corner mounting holes and drill into the JLF plate. This will be harder to do once you widen the hole.
Have yet to do this but next I will put the plate in a vise and hack away the extra metal and use the 2 holes close to the adaptor to mount with wood screws.
Now all I have to do is cut a rectangle notch on the back of my stick, just like they do with controller cords then round out the counter sink recess. I might try to counter sink in from the inside as well with a dremel and chisel.
Carve shape and refine with various dremel attachments and then Flush mount. I counter sunk the mounting plate from the inside. Carefully drill mounting holes for JLF mounting plate into wood. You want to avoid blow out of the wood so make sure that the drill holes are proper size and angled away from adaptor.
Keystone RJ-45 Jacks.
There are two types of RJ-45 jacks that you can use, a keystone jack with punch down terminals or a pass through jack. I reccomend the pass through jacks because they are easier and allow the cord to be detachable.
Typical Keystone jacks require that you cut both ends of the ethernet cord and use a punchdown tool to get them into the terminals. I don’t reccomend these but they will work. Ironically all of my sticks use punchdown versions like the one used in the wood mounting because I bought a bunch of them before I saw the benefits of the pass through. If I did buy new ones though I would get the pass through for easy disconnection if needed.
Thanks for this update - it contains some significant new information that’s all now available in a single guide. Great pic quality too.
Regarding the various different Neutrik jacks, I personally prefer the IDC versions as you don’t need to hack another RJ-45 plug to get it to work, and it also allows you to use the Neutrik jack as a terminal point for non-supported PCB’s (like a DC pcb), or a stock stick that already comes wth a PSX pcb (if installing a Datel pcb instead of a Cthulhu).
Something you might consider adding to your guide is a mention of the Neutrik NE8MC-1 (or similar) RJ45 boots. They perfectly complement a Neutrik RJ-45 jack and keeps the connection rock solid (as well as near indestructible).
GREAT tutorial rtdzign! I didn’t actually know until now that you could use the rows on the Multi-Console Cthulu for the PlayStation 3 support! Very neat! I highly doubt this considering some cables need more than 6 pins on an RJ-45 plug, but is there any way that the RJ-45 plug can still be used to support a USB cable for sticks dual-modded with MC Cthulu boards and Xbox 360 PCBs?
I saw rtdzign’s tutorial on that as well. He really is epic! :wow:
But the thing is, I’m not sure if the MC Cthulu with all these new systems would allow for the USB data lines to pass through the RJ-45 jack without limiting potential console cable additions to the MC Cthulu by leaving it with only 6 pins. In fact, doesn’t the Saturn support up abovee require all 8 pins to function? :wonder:
Thanks for this. I have been having trouble getting my Cables to work right. I have double checked my solders and everything looks good, double checked the Gamecube Wire I built, everything looked good, I think my issue may be my Keystone…
I’m gonna go over this new guide and attempt it again tonight…
if there is stuff you want me to add please post links. I was going to put in pictures of the ruggedized connectors and also if people could link me to the crimp on Mini Din 8 Connectors on Digikey ( I can never find what I’m looking for on that site) and the Solder on Full Din connectors. I’l like to include those as alternatives.
Thanks rtdzign for compiling this all into one thread; this should be a handy resource.
The CUI Inc MD-80 series has 8-pin mini DIN male/female plugs and jacks and whatnot.
Search MD-90 for 9-pin, MD-60 for 6-pin, and so on. Search SD-80 for the full-size DIN versions.
What’s weird is that the in-line mini DIN plugs say they have optional “crimp pin adapters”. I have no problem finding the crimp pins, but I haven’t been able to find the adapters anywhere, so I’ve just been soldering to the tiny default receptacle piece and trying not to drink too much coffee.
I was thinking about starting a “connectors” thread, but I don’t see why we can’t have it all here if it doesn’t get too crowded. I’ve been messing with other Neutrik stuff. Their connectors are nice in that they aren’t too crazy expensive, but are pretty and well-built. There are a lot of other “fancy” circular connectors and such out there but the prices can get kinda ridiculous since a lot of that stuff gets into medical/military/industrial use and the prices go way up.
My current favorite is the miniCON series (assembled or modular). They fit up to 12 pins and can be completely disassembled for painting or whatever, and the pins can be soldered (or crimped) to each wire separately, then inserted into the connectors by hand. The connectors are pretty small; the receptacle fits in a 14mm hole.
I have a few pics of this in my PSX -> MC Cthulhu converter post. It definitely works well in plastic or metal cases (e.g. TE), and would probably work alright in a wood case, though due to how small it is, some material might need to be routed out inside, since the jack is a screw-on type.
The neutriCON series (assembled / modular) looks like it could work pretty well in wood cases. It maxes out at 8 pins. I haven’t tried it yet.
Their CAT6 stuff has a different RJ-45 receptacle that could fit better into wood cases (24mm hole). The square backend that accepts the cable is removable for wiring, so if the case were thin enough it should work. Right now they are pretty expensive though (~$30?).