RT/LT 360 TE Fightstick problem, no warranty. What do I do?

I saw a couple of posts in other threads about the RT/LT buttons on the 360 TE stick stop working. I have been experiencing this problem lately. Unfortunately I have had my stick since last October so I have no warranty. What solutions do I have to fix this problem? What replacement parts can I put in the stick instead?

I think it was caused by a static shock. I play with the TE on my lap. One day I had a massive static shock and the stick turned off. Since then it has been acting up on and off. If I do find a way to fix this, what steps can I take to prevent a shock like that from killing my fightstick?

The easiest fix would be to swap LT/RT buttons with the LB/RB buttons (you can do this by simply opening stick and switching the wires around), assuming you don’t use the extra 2 buttons of course.

It does seem to be a static related issue. I have had luck by grounding out the metal plates, and haven’t had the problem on my stick since


I’m impressed that trick seems to have fixed your problems.

I still want to call shenanigans, but until it happens to you again I really can’t :stuck_out_tongue:

To be honest though, yesterday I had some intermittent issues with forward on my sanwa after a long session, which has never happened before and the microswitch looks fine physically. I’m debating grounding my stick in the same fashion you have.

You still want to call shenanigans? Static buildup makes all kind of badness happen to PCBs. It is probably some kind of static buildup on the metal plate making a jump to one of the lines on the joystick causing a temporary voltage overload on the PCB and some stuck signals. Grounding the top plate gives a clear path to discharge static from your hands via the screws.

The HRAP EX even grounds out the bottom plate in a similar fasion

I’ll try the second grounding technique. I got the TE stick as a gift about 6 months ago and I don’t have the receipt. How lenient is mad catz with their returns due to this issue?

I’ve grounded my TE case as well now. I figure it won’t hurt doing it and since I just had an anomaly with it even without using the TE PCB inside. BTW, I grounded the bottom plate without removing any screws. The screws like you said don’t want to come off, but if you turn it to the left the nut holding the screw goes up alittle, and you can jam a piece of wire inbetween the nut and the plate and screw it back tight again. Gives it a perfect ground.

Top plate I did the same thing you suggested, was much easier.

I’m almost contemplating grabbing my TE pcbs back out just to test it, but I’ve already wired everything for my fightpad pcb, so I’ll just leave it as is.

Awesome, that is good advice about the bottom grounding wire.

Which screws did you unscrew a little bit, and what kind/how much wire?

top left. I used 22 gauge radioshack copper standed wire. Exposed about 2 inches of bare copper and shaped it into a fishing hook and hooked around the bottom of the nut until it was tightened underneath.

Just wanted to note that I tried this technique and after a day or two I actually got a please reconnect controller message on my stick. This has never happened on the fightpad pcb before I grounded to the top and bottom panels to the pcb.

Might want to consider grounding it to another source instead of onto the PCB itself. For now I’m gonna go back to not grounding the top and bottom plates. I still reckon you not getting anymore problems is a coincidence, but who knows. I didn’t have any problems before I grounded the plates anyways (after switching to fightpad pcb) except the forward going out once on my stick (which could have been attributed to a bad jlf pcb/microswitch).