Salvagable


#1

Is this PCB salvageable all the metal rings are gone for the D+ D- 5V and ground is there anyway I can get a connection. If not can I buy a new PCB or can I piggy back a 360 controller.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc130/wwstar30/DSC00968.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc130/wwstar30/DSC00967.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc130/wwstar30/DSC00966.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc130/wwstar30/DSC00965.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc130/wwstar30/DSC00963.jpg


#2

Christ that looks bad, whether or not its salvageable i can guarantee it’ll be a nightmare to work with. The rosin splatter is covering up the possible leads that could’ve been scraped up, also the contacts look completely burnt out. Even if an attempt was made theres a high chance the connections would simply fall right off.


#3

Yeah, uh. . . go get some perf board, spare wire, and practice soldering. A lot.


#4

Dude, you’re fine. I’ve done stuff much worse (like I pretty much had to guess what the layout was!). If you don’t have a solder sucker, invest $10 and get one. Clean out those holes, run the USB wires through them (from the labeled side), and solder the ends to those 0 Ohm resistors right next to the holes. SGND stands for “shield ground” and it looks like the best condition of the lot, so you will probably be fine just soldering that one in normal.
Be brave! :nunchuck:
-ud


#5

It seems like you are either using a soldering iron with way too much wattage (IE too hot), or are waaaaaay over heating your soldering points.

I wouldn’t use anything higher than a 25 watt iron if you are new to modding.


#6

what would you advise if i was going to hook up wire from my IMP to that spot to finish my dual mod


#7

Yeah, that looks toasty. I second the practicing idea. I took and old board and just soldered random wires to it myself to get a good feel for it first.

This helped too:
http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/solder.htm

I really think something like that should be added to the newbie faq. It’s what I used to figure this stuff out and helped me greatly.


#8

I don’t know the first thing about the IMP, but anything you are soldering to those spots should go to those 0 Ohm resistors. If you need more surface area to solder to, scrap away some of the green paint on the traces going from the holes to the 0 Ohm resistors. If you go that route, be sure and tin (pre-solder) the traces so they are nice and shiney before you solder a wire to them. It will save you a lot of frustration.
-ud


#9

Wow, I wish you luck. I guess practice would do. I guess I should do the same sometime. Makes me wonder if i’m any good at this.


#10

can you try cleaning it with some Isopropyl alcohol, letting it dry, then taking a solder sucker to it? It might be salvagable.


#11

Ho-ly crap.

I think this section needs a “HALL OF SHAME”.


#12

Thanks man


#13

Ok so I hooked everything back up and now up and left work but right and down turn on the home button and A and B do not respond everything else works fine. Any idea on where I should start to fix this problem.


#14

If everything but those buttons works, it’s certainly not your USB connection at fault. Check the ground connection on the buttons that aren’t working, as well as the solder joints for those signals on the PCB.
-ud


#15

what do you mean by check the ground connection. Checked the solder points and everything seems to be fine. but while checkin ive lost all directions but up


#16

dicked around with the solder points and got left working again now but still cant get down and right

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc130/wwstar30/DSC00982.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc130/wwstar30/DSC00981.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc130/wwstar30/DSC00980.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc130/wwstar30/DSC00979.jpg


#17

… why did you de-solder and then re-solder those ribbon cable connections?


#18

Are those burn marks inside of the TE?

Mini, I don’t think he did. I think he just held the iron on so long that it melted the plastic through the pin, along with hosing the underside soldered points.


#19

Take a look at those latest pictures again. Those burned solder points aren’t for the USB cable, but the ribbon cable connection for the buttons/terminal strip. Why he would have any need to de-solder that is beyond my comprehension.


#20

I would say the best way to fix that is to find another point of the board where you can solder to, but honestly, that board looks pretty toasted.

What kind of iron are you using?