Sanwa Microswitches


#1

Hello,

I apologize if this information has been posted but I’ve been looking and googling for 30 minutes and am more confused than when I started. I have the Sanwa JLF joystick without the pcb board, all of the wires are soldered onto 2 out of 3 posts on each microswitch. My “up” microswitch hardly activates anymore when trying to jump backward or forward. What microswitch brand/model is recommended to replace faulty microswitches to keep the a similar to stock feel? Thanks in advance.


#2

Akibahara shop is about the only place I see selling the Sanwa MS-O-3R. It will cost about $2.50 plus shipping from Japan which will probably cost about $8 or so. At that price, you may just be better off buying a PCB kit and a harness to go along with it, run you about $20 including shipping.

Or, you can do things the hard way and try to find an Omron D3V switch that matches the Omron switches in a JLF exactly, and I just checked mouser.com and didn’t see one there. Maybe post in the Trading Outlet that you WTB a switch from a MadCatz WWE stick if someone has a spare lying around. They’re the same spec as the ones in the JLF.

Or, as an alternative, buy a Paradise Arcade Cherry set which will include a harness and a set of 4 Cherry switches, which can be drop in replacements but in order to get the same tension as a stock JLF you will need a spring that’s about 1.5x to 2x the tension of a stock JLF spring. Right now they’re out of springs. http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/en/microswitches/532-silent-jlf-modification-cherry-0855742005321.html About half the cost of the Silent Omron set, which is much quieter. Still, about the same cost if you were to just buy the Sanwa PCB and a harness for it.

:\


#3

This is what you’re looking for:


#4

But he’s using a JLF-TM without the TP-MA assembly. To use that, he’d have to buy a harness as well.

:smiley:


#5

If he doesn’t mind soldering directly to the microswitches, why not just solder to the five pins in the PCB’s connector? No harness needed, and no need to daisy-chain the ground. Is it not a common ground controller PCB?


#6

It is a common ground PCB. If he doesn’t mind soldering, it would probably the easiest, somewhat cost effective and most available solution since the assembly is widely available.

If he doesn’t want to do a lot of soldering, then picking up the PCB assembly and a harness would be more expensive but probably the easiest and least time consuming solution of all.

If he wants to his JLF to still use switches and convert it to QD, then going the Paradise Arcade route is best, however the harness will need to be soldered to the PCB, so it isn’t quite solderless free, however once soldered on the PCB he can easily swap out switches, sticks, and so on. I personally think this is the best method, but I guess it depends on how much work he wants to do.

Finding the exact Omron switch is going to be hard, but it would still cost about $8 for a switch which includes the cost of shipping.


#7

D3V-16-3A5


#8

Yeah but I haven’t seen that particular one in stock for a while. That’s why I said finding the exact one. Might be able to cross reference it with another, could check it out.

http://www.omron.com/ecb/products/sw/11/d3v-01.html


#9

Might work. Personally, I believe that you can’t go wrong with D3V.


#10

^…yea i bet, lol


#11

Omron V are easier to find, why would he want to get D3V ?


#12

Haha I think the D3V switches are backed up up with warranty by D3V maybe??