Sanwa Mounting Question


#1

I’ve been following the instructions on the Joystick Builder’s website and was wondering if anyone has tried his method of bottom mounting the stick. I think I may have to use this way since I might not be able to get hold of a router =/ He mounts the stick to a small piece of 1/8" thick poplar wood. . . I’m sure that’s pretty thin. . . So i’m a bit confused here. . .


#2

You can get a router from home depot for 59.99 I imagine the bottom mount method will work fine, if a bit fussy, but as long as you use glue and screws to secure the wooden frame pieces to each other you shouldn’t have problems. I highly suggest you get a router though. It makes most tasks related to stick building cake. I like cake :clap:


#3

Where is the joystick builder’s website now?


#4

I agree. I think im gonna get a router today. Maybe some cake, too.


#5

craftsman router!!! woot!!


#6

Here.
Still an excellent source.

The one I got was a Ryobi from HomeDepot. It’s pretty much the same router with just a different label.

final_cut: Don’t forget the milk! Cake + milk=:wgrin:


#7

Yeah, I bought a router myself. I bought a plunge router since it’s better for the method of building I’m using (routing from a solid block as opposed to putting together a box from pieces cut from a board).

~Paik


#8

Where do you get these blocks of wood from…and how do you work from there? I’ve never done that


#9

59.99 seems like alot for one job. . . I’ll see though. Do you use the router to top mount or bottom?


#10

I use my router to top mount my joysticks. But u can do either


#11

Ah cool, thanks for the replies guys.


#12

Well, blocks of wood are harder to come by and also more expensive. I’m using blocks of cherry right now and I had to buy enough length to build about 7 sticks (which is okay because that’s about how many I was planning on building anyway). And per block it comes out to about $20. If you want to see some pics of the routing I did, look here:

This is my prototype made of joined MDF boards. It’ll be easier to route real wood though. I’m going to put up a whole thread outlining the stages of my prototype when it’s done and also put in some tips that I picked up or learned from doing it myself to help other new builders like myself.

I got into stick building because of Per (TRNG) and Noel (finkle). You’ll see how Per’s most recent designed influenced not only the way it’s constructed but also the shape to a degree. Noel helps me out a lot when it comes to metal working questions. Anyway, the prototype was on hold because I was short on holesaws and mandrills. But other than that you can see it’s pretty much done.

~Paik


#13

Your stuff is looking good. I will also detail my progress in an effort to repay those that helped me. I look forward to seeing your finished piece. Looks very professional aready. I really like what you’ve done so far. It looks very solid. . . I wish i could work with metal too >__<


#14

Nice stuff Paik. I was thinking about “borrowing” TRNG’s stick design too. Very nice routing btw. You used a template to get it that straight right? My plunger is on the way. It’s a Triton 2 1/4 HP. You can see it on the BYOAC forums. It’s my av over there. I’ll detail mine as well as soon as I get my shop set up. What metal did you use?

Tinchu: You can always buy it, use it, then return it. Most places have a 90 day return policy. BUT, you may end up keeping it…
It’s hard to stop building once you start…


#15

lol, I might just do that. Hmmmm. . .


#16

Yeah, you have to use to a template if you want to cut it straight like that. But not just a template, you need a router bushing as well. That’s what “hits” and runs along side the template so that your router bit doesn’t go anywhere further.

You can see I had a mess up. That was caused by a piece of my template coming off the surface. I had to fix that with some extra MDF I had lying around and some glue.

As for Per’s design, he offered a lot of advice. The best piece of advice was probably NOT to do it his way. Hahaha. It’s definitely more time consuming and way more costly if you don’t have the right tools or access to a woodshop.

As for the metal, I’m using 2mm aluminum sheets that I ordered online somewhere. In hindsight I wish I had made the bottom plate at least 4mm to give it a little more heft, but it’s all good. Ordering online is also rather expensive if you’re not buying a decent amount. I bought 5 of each to keep the costs around $7 a sheet for the bottom plate and $6 a sheet for the button plate.

EDIT: Tinchu also remember the other costs with owning a router…like the bit will cost you a decent amount ($15-$20). A bushing will cost you around $5 plus you need the screw part which is separate which is around $3. There’s a lot of small costs that you don’t see when you start such as material to make your templates and double sided tape to temporarily adhere them to the surface of your box.

~Paik


#17

When I do template routing I mostly use a pattern bit. It has a bearing on the bit’s top edge that rides along the template. Easier for me than having to put the collar guide on and center it. I may try the metalwork. I use 1/4" hardboard for the bottoms. It holds well.


#18

I’m only looking to use the router to give me space to top mount.


#19

Where do u get the sheet metal from?


#20

I got a router! Could someone state the dimensions of the Sanwa mounting plate please? Including it’s height. Thanks.

P.S. I think you can order sheet metal from the internet.