Instead of buying an arcade cabinet I came across this: http://www.massystems.com/SuperNova.html This ‘I think’ allows you to hook up the arcade board to your TV. Is that what this is? Is this a good deal?
If I buy a CPS III board, can I use it for any CPS III game? Cause I found a nice deal on a CPS III board + SF3:NG for under $100.
Where can I find the SF3:3rd Strike game?
What’s a PCB?
What all will I need (like, CPS III board, game, etc.)???
What is an RGB monitor and how does it differ from a regular TV for example?
They are often called “super guns”. They basically are a JAMMA interface with some JAMMA-wired controls, and also convert the RGB output to S-Video for use in a standard television. Visually speaking, S-Video is nowhere near as clear as pure RGB. But it’s still a nice cheap option for playing arcade boards without needing a whole dedicated cabinet. Plus CRT TVs are getting stupidly cheap. You can find standard-def 4:3 80cm (31") TVs at bargain prices nowadays, which are fun for a weekend of biff.
If you want a cabinet, get a cabinet. If you want to sit on your couch and play on a TV, (or have a wife/girlfriend who deosn’t like cabinets in the house, or have a small unit with no room for a cabinet) get a supergun. Personal preference on that one.
Printed Circuit Board. The thing with all the electronic components on it, and traces that connect them.
RGB monitors are monitors that take only an RGB signal in. PC monitors are high-resolution RGB (31KHz and above). Arcade monitors of old are low-res (15KHz, and sometimes 24 and 31 also).
TVs are similar to low-res RGB arcade monitors in technology terms, but often have different inputs, and locked resolutions (ie: NTSC only, or PAL/NTSC multi depending on your region). The different inputs on TVs result in lower quality images. Normal composite video (yellow-plug RCA cable) and S-Video are noticably “fuzzier” and have worse colour bleed than pure RGB input. SCART is a pure RGB source, and recommended if you can get it on a TV for excellent image quality. Likewise, Component (YCrCb or YCC) is mathematically equivalent to RGB, and gives a better image quality than other TV inputs. Pure RGB is always preferred for CRT-based displays however, as it is a “native” source of information.
TVs draw pictures to a screen by shooting three electron guns at a phosphor tube. These are red, green and blue signals in additive light colour space. Having an input signal that is pure component-RGB (ie: R, G and B [and H/V sync signals too] on separate wires) will always guarantee the lowest level of picture quality loss that comes with things like composite video (where colour and brightness signals all occupy the same cable, and cause massive interference and quality loss).
It will blow regular speakers?? From the Mas Systems site: DESCRIPTION:
The Super NOVA Arcade System brings you the real Arcade Experience home - a complete system designed to replace the full-size upright Arcade cabinet. It comes with everything you need to connect to a regular Television with Composite Video and/or S-Video Inputs, and to an Audio Stereo system using standard RCA connectors.
Hmm, so even if I use an S-Video connection I will get shitty quality on a NTSC Tv?
BTW, if anyone has some free time and educate me through chat my AIM screenname : Wyda17
Its like this, SNK/NeoGeo games use the MVS console (just like CPS2/3 games use CPS2 or 3). Because all NeoGeo games use identical hardware, it would be a waste to print PCB’s with all those chips integrated into every board, and it would make the board more expensive. So what you have is a console, that plugs into the jamma rig that has all the hardware that all the games use, and then all you need is the relative MVS cart to play the game. (useless trivia, SNK vs Capcom Chaos was actually made as 1 PCB, but that was as an anti piracy measure).
Its up to you.
Some Superguns reccomend you dont, something to do with the voltage being high or the board not being earthed (cant remember). Email them if in doubt.
Like I said, I dunno the NTSC equivalent to scart. If you dont have a PAL TV I think you might need to get an old low res monitor, ive seen people use ancient ones from commodore 64’s that apparently work.
Im well aware of all that (I live in a PAL region, and use RGB scart leads on all my consoles to play NTSC games). What I ment was I dunno what type of cable NTSC users use to get an RGB picture, seeing as (from what ive heard) NTSC TV’s dont use scart.
SCART is not as common in the US as it is in Europe, but there are still plenty of TVs with SCART connectors floating around in NTSC regions. The downside is you usually pay a higher premium for the privilege. That never makes sense to me, as fi you’ve ever opened up a TV you’ll find a lot of them have space for SCART connectors that are just not used. How adding a 30c component to a board makes the TV worth $100 more at sale time, I’ll never understand. But anyway…
I’ve even seen TVs around that have DSUB9 inputs for direct CGA connection (RGB +HV comp sync), but these are VERY rare. Some HDTV CRTs will have RGB-in in the form of either SCART or DSUB15 (VGA). But again, they are costly.
Over the holidays I’m going to be doing a few experiments myself to see if I can add RGB input to cheap TVs, effectively modding them into RGB monitors. Although I seriously do not recommend people who haven’t worked on TVs before try this, as there’s easily enough voltage inside those things to kill you. Still, if I manage to make it work, I’ll post a log of it somewhere of the results.
** NO NO NO NO.** You CANNOT play 3rd Strike on a NG board. There is not enough ram. Not only that, but you ARE NOT going to ever find a 3rd Strike CART + CD-Rom only. If you have 3rd Strike however (which uses the most ram) you can play any of the other games. Again, finding just the CART + CD-ROM is tough.
I hope you know about the CPSIII Suicide battery and that until you change the battery in the cartridge (while the system is on, or with using a helper battery) your board has the potential to die at any moment. After this you CANNOT fix it.
Japan, and the going price is $400.
CPSIII Mobo, CD-Rom Drive, Cables, Security Cartridge, CD-Rom. Almost everytime, and certainly for 3rd Strike, you are going to be buying all of these at once. I’ve only seen JoJo, NG, and Warzard Cart + CD-Rom for sale once or twice, and who knows if the suicide battery was still alive in those carts.
Just to expand on that (because it seems a lot of people get confused here) YPrPb IS NOT RGB! Yes, the cables are coloured Red, Green and Blue, and yes it’s silly to do so as it confuses people all the bloody time. But the signals are different, although they aim to generate roughly the same level of picture quality and information.
Likewise, “component” doesn’t alyways mean “YCrCb”. Component means breaking signals up into smaller components. YCrCb is a type of component video signal. RGB is also a type of component video. SCART by definition is a component cable also. Is everyone confused yet?
Composite video is not SCART. SCART is a component (not composite) cable for starters.
Composite also suffers from very bad interference due to carrying all three video signals - Y, U and V - all on one wire.
In order of quality (best to worst), your options are:
RGB or YUV/YCrCb component
Composite really does look bloody awful and should be avoided where possible. 99% of all modern TVs also have S-Video, and you can pick up S-Video cables for your consoles off ebay for spare change. If your TV supports component, then definitely use it at all costs. The quality difference is worth it.
Ive made my own super gun aswell, with playstation controller ports to boot. But this is not the way to go for the quality gaming. If your gonna go the super gun route, unless you have some good technical background it will be a nightmare for you. Different games have different color pinouts for the rgb, which a monitor can detect, and would require a bit of circuitry on your end to accomodate. And unless you have a scart television your gonna need some video conversion circuitry, which requires some delicate wiring. And if you go that route you need yet another circuit to dim the colors on certain games (namely third strike). If you can find a cheap cabinet on ebay and fix it up, it would be far less dificult for you. One final thing, since I dont think anyone has mentioned it yet, MAKE SURE TO GET THE BATTERY REPLACED IMMEDIATLEY. As I said in another thread, Ill do it for $25 plus shipping. Just make sure to get it done. Please. For the love of Grego.