Sega HSS-0136 Mod Work Log


I’m working on a re-pro template right now. Kids and work got it on the slow-mo mode though. I’ll post here when I’m done.


I saw your tutorial for the JLF mount while doing some searching for the VS template, great work! Might just follow suit, I also prefer the JLF over the LS series.

I might just get on a jumpstart on the template, maybe we can have a collaboration of sorts if you’re willing. I’ll post some mockup results here, if you have any advice or critique, I’d be very grateful.

Edit: Here’s what I’ve done so far…

PS: I know the sphere S is supposed to be black…I’ll fix that later.

Edit: Credit where is due; The MCTE Virtua Stick template that’s being used lately was a tremendous help to get things started, so thanks to whoever made it. I also used the Astro CP for color matching.


Shiiit, SRK forums are closing!

Where are y’all going to post updates?

I’ll probably link Tumblr via Twitter:


We will make our own Tech Talk, with Black Jack and Hookers.


Oh sad news. Figures things close up as I come back after a long hiatus.


Ya know what, forget the tech talk and blackjack.


Small update (no pictures), I got my HSS-0136 :slight_smile:

It’s very yellowed so I will do her up with vinyl dye (black or white, not 100% yet).

The PCB is (apparently) dead, and it’s got the ASCII stick so I don’t feel bad about junking & modding.
Interestingly, my original buttons are using black Alps switches - will try to get a good picture for documentation at the weekend.


Skip vinyl dye or paint. Disassemble the case from the internals. Buy 40 Volume (12% Peroxide) Hair Developer Cream. Put on gloves and lightly brush on a thin layer. Do not cover (despite many resources online that indicate otherwise—as it will cause botching). Put the cream covered case in direct sunlight—preferably in a foil-lined box to ensure full light coverage. Re-coat every hour. The time spent in the sun will be representative of how much the case has yellowed (3-6 hours for light yellowing, 8-16 for significant yellowing).

It took only about 14 hours of sunlight to get this yellowed Saturn…

To look like this…


Great job, looks amazing! I’ve also seen on youtube some whitening done with a peroxide/water submerged method that works very well, haven’t done it myself so I’m still dwelling which way to go for my Virtua stick case which is lightly yellowed, just waiting for the weather before I start experimenting.


I submerge too in clear developer. It requires getting a specially-sized container for parts as to not waste excess fluid to fully submerge them. Also, the fluid can only really be used for a day (which can get expensive), as the peroxide breaks down in the sun/air over time (even covered). Also note that peroxide-infused solution will be more dense than plastic, and therefore the plastic will float. Getting inventive on weighing down the part(s) becomes tedious (and can affect light exposure). The process also requires constant brushing-off of small air bubbles that form on the plastic surface while submerged (which may cause botching). If parts somehow wrestle themselves free of their weights, they’ll float and sit with portions of plastic not submerged. Translation?: more blotching.


Sounds like the cream application is the way to go, thanks for the heads up.


did you have tape anything up like the clear part or will it be okay to brush it all over?


I just make sure I try to avoid the clear plastic and labels. If some gets on, it’ll be fine.


I posted this over in the Official Arcade Stick Art Thread and electricgrave suggested that I might get more answers over here, my original post:

Artwork here (wouldn’t let me embed on here for some reason?), this is just a screenshot of the print ready PDF, so isn’t high enough resolution for printing and I still need to tweak the blues of the logos as they didn’t look quite right after having a proof printed.


Well that’ll work. Thanks! You can embed images as long as the URL for that image has a file extension at the end. Just paste the URL here within a [“img”] and a [“/img”] (no quotes). Check it:


I plan to use Game On Grafx for my Virtua Stick printing needs. They apparently have something similar to the original textured laminate, and their print quality is very good.


Yeah, I tried that, but just got a broken link, thought it might be a permissions thing for low post counts or something. You’d think something that simple would easy for a Web Developer… Oh well.

I’m in the UK, so hopefully shipping won’t be too bad from that place. I had a look at their site earlier and it seems that they offer quite a few different services and materials, do you know what the material/laminate is called that you mentioned?

Also, I wasn’t sure whether to add the cutouts and external shape to the artwork, to have it cut during the printing process, or whether to stick with the shape I have and then make the cuts once it’s stuck on with a craft knife. Especially as the buttons are now wider than the original artwork by a few mm.

I’m not looking forward to mounting the stick first and then trying to line up the artwork, would be much easier if the artwork went on first as a flat surface, but then I wouldn’t be in the situation in the first place if that were an option!


You can always disassemble the stick so that you only have the housing installed (with the shaft and pivot removed) so that you have a flat top-surface to work with.


Hmm, I didn’t even consider that. Presumably that’s easy enough to do, as well as put back together afterwards?


I should say that this is my first venture into modding a stick, I’ve actually come full circle as this thread helped me out few months ago when was looking into how to do it. :slight_smile:


Yeah, it’s just one E-clip that holds the majority of the shaft (and attached components) together. :slight_smile: