Yeah sorry, I meant to ask was: have you measured your panels & created accurate templates (with dimensions in mm/inches)?
I scanned in the panel and cross referenced the sizing in Adobe Photoshop with the physical measurements of the panel itselt. I then made a template using the outlines of the panel and holes for reference. I then made a copy and vectorized the panel template for Adobe Illustrator—to start drafting out the lines, shapes and text. I didn’t finish this part myself, though the other two guys seem to have done so. JFK1980 is MIA though so they can’t cross-check each other’s work for accuracy.
However, as to my knowledge, Game On Grafx prints and laminates as a rectangular piece and does not laser cut to a specified shape. I’m going to get them to print and send a panel out to me. The I will have it cut myself at a local shop, using my template as an overlay guide.
Now all I need is the panel art file. I gave up on finishing my own. If I cannot get things done this way, I’m just going to have the metal panel sanded, powder-coated, labeled using black vinyl (or paint stencil), and then I’m going to satin clear coat the entire panel…kinda like these bad boys (but with a Japanese Saturn logo):
Honestly, the longer I wait, the more I lean towards powder coating
Ugh, so sorry guys, I’ve not had a chance to get back on here for ages and email notifications were going into my junk folder, which is now sorted.
Hopefully it’s not too late and you can still utilise my artwork. I’d love to see how it turns out with Game On Grafx before I place my own order as I think the shipping to the UK is going to push the price up for me, so I want to be sure.
I will say that I’m not 100% happy with all the colours just yet, I’m going to get some proofs printed to try and get as close to the original as possible, but for now you can edit/play with the files yourselves. My plan is to cut to the crop marks and then apply the artwork so it’s square, then flip it over and trim the edges and cut the holes with a sharp craft knife.
PDF and AI files here.
I’ve spent a lot of time on that artwork, so if you feel like buying me a beer sometime then that would be welcomed.
While I’m here, does anyone know the size of the silver bolts/nuts that hold the faceplate on, and also the size of the black screws that hold the bottom plate on?
Mine have seen better days and I’d like to get some replica replacements for when I finally get around to putting it all back together.
Whoa. Thanks a TON! Those bolts are standard M4 carriage bolts with a 15mm long thread.
Perfect, thank you.
I took a visit to my local print shop and the guys there suggested that I print on laminated vinyl. They suggested that they be the ones to overlay and then mount/cut on the bare panel. I respectfully declined that request as I’m pretty handy with a hobby knife and spray adhesive.
Then the dude said: “why spend all this time and money on something that’s been obsolete for decades.”
I laughed. hard.
Needless to say, I’m going to give it a go with a single print. If it works out I will try and get a few more printed for backups and gifts.
Ha, just because they aren’t sold in stores anymore, doesn’t mean they are dead, not at all.
Ok…hot off the press:
Shit cost this unemployed bozo almost $200. Why I bought so many? I don’t know, really…Paranoia and stupidity? Print shop dude says they are still off-gassing, and thus remaining gas bubbles will disappear in the next day.
Here’s one up close (ready for a big image?):
They printed at 1400dpi on laminated 3M Scotchcal graphic film. The image looks very sharp. Note that the colors on these photos are not 100% accurate as this was under 2700K temp room lighting. Aside from that, the gray color is a tad more green-hued than I’d prefer, but I’d prefer that color-bias than the other typically on gray shade shifts—which is fucking purple (bleck). The texture, compared to the original, isn’t quite as rough. It’s actually very smooth. The thickness is 1mm (laminate and print combined). If my memory serves me correctly, I believe the original combined sticker and laminate is 2mm. Will this new stuff sit flush to the plastic edge? That remains to be seen.
Thanks go @JFK1980 for amazing work on the reproduction panel art. A lot of time was spent on this, and it totally shows! Thanks again!
Now I’ve got to buy some Rapid Tac spray solution and a new felt-lined squeegee. My existing one looks like it’s seen a war.
I don’t have much time to dig in and get this mounted quite yet. Once I do, I’ll post my experience and pictures of the results.
Double post, bitches!
Ah, the joys of being temporarily unemployed. There are few—but this is one. Test time!
So…the prints are very good quality! Exhibit A (next to another HSS-0136 with no mods):
(It’s gonna be a big image folks… brace yourselves)
BUT! (And it’s a big one)…
The laminate layer is not very resilient at all. Exhibit B (scratches from using only a squeegee with moderate pressure):
I’m really going to need to hit up my local Michael’s craft store and see what they’ve got for ANOTHER layer of clear protective wrap ON TOP OF the existing laminate layer. Ugh…
On the plus side, there is JUST enough space left for another layer for everything to sit perfectly flush:
Here’s the unmodded HSS-0136:
As I spent a shit-ton here, I’m going to have to try and make these panels as scratch resistant as possible without resorting to a Game On Grafx order. Wish me luck!
Holy smokes, I missed out on all the fun. Excellent work folks!
My process for the CPO pretty much reflects that of jopamo’s except I didn’t do a vector of it. All the measurements were done metric. I can email the PDF if need be, just LMK. Looks like the work is pretty much spot on regardless though.
jopamo, are you planning on selling the ones you don’t need to alleviate the expense?
Perhaps, once I can nail down a more scratch-resistant surface solution. Right now I wouldn’t feel comfortable taking money from people with things so easily scratched. I’ll hit up a craft shop and test some options. Last resort, I may even try a spray clear coat. I’ve had good results with that before. Stay tuned.
I have one of these waiting for a bit of TLC, very glad to see i don’t need to mod the case to fit another stick in after giving up on a namco ps1.
Thinking of dual modding it with a bufb or ps360+, as i don’t want to lose the original saturn pcb - does anyone know if the stock one is common ground?
Damn, I could use one of those replacement art. I got mine from Japan and original the art looks like shit haha.
so…I sacrificed two sheets to test with Rustoleum Enamel Clear Coat (Satin, Crystal clear). I put on 5 thin, even coats and let the final coat cure for 24 hours. Then I took a fingernail to them both.
I’m looking up paint protection films and polycarbonate laminate films. Finding sheets to purchase is hard, as everywhere wants to sell you rolls for hundreds of dollars.
UPDATE: I’m first going to check out some self-adhesive satin clear laminating sheets from the likes of 3M/Scotch and Avery before I hit up the automotive stuff. If it prevents scratches, then problem solved.
I have a whole week off but I can’t find my 20/24mm hole drills, frick.
Ah, it’s a shame that you’ve not had much luck avoiding the scratches. I’ve just tried something similar with a vinyl film over a paper test print and I had the same problem; scratches so easily.
I’m not sure if I’m going to even order from GameOnGrafix as they want $66.85 for shipping a single print to the UK… I was actually just trying to buy one of their sale items ($6.99) so I could checkout the printing and laminating before placing my actual order. It looks like it’s going to cost me more than $120 for a single print, so it looks like I need to find another solution now too.
Polycarbonate laminate film is exactly what we need here, but, like you, I cannot find it in small quantities anywhere.
I ordered THIS and THIS. Hopefully either will do the trick, but I’m going to start with the waterproof light sheets first, then progress to the thicker floor graphic stuff as needed. I’ll report back once the items arrive and I can test.
Ok so the floor overlaminate sheets worked very well.
There’s a bit more orange peel texture than the original so that means more reflection under direct lighting. But it looks VERY close to original, AND you can take a key to the surface and rest easy…take my word for it…I did it!
Now…ugh…the guys at local print shop are fucking morons. Their vinyl printer seems off calibration. My original prints had too much green tint within the gray background (which my dumbass didn’t inspect well enough and approved/paid for)
I submitted a self-made swatch batch of grays with different K %’s (CMYK) and left the remaining 3 colors at 0%. They printed that file for me for free (because they should have, damnit). While K-30% seems spot-on brightness-wise, it’s still a bit too green…
On a fucking pure grayscale setting…
Anyway…I asked the owner if he calibrated to Pantone, and he said yes. I chose Cool Gray 3 C from his swatch book. While a bit blue it’s considerably better than the green-tinted prints.
Now I’m in a tough spot. I already spent nearly $200 for prints that are not accurate repro’s of the original panel. They’re nice if you’re not a gray stickler. However, I’m torn because I want to print a small batch to compensate, but fear that another ~$200 for printed vinyl might be too much pill for this unemployed guy to swallow. I’m going to print a VERY small batch (like 4–two for my two sticks, with two as backups/replacements).
On the bright side, a good vinyl print (I used 3M Scotchcal), topped with that overlaminate film I shared (with ample amounts of Rapid-Tac solution, a squeegee, and a hobby knife) with get you great results.
I’ll share the color-edited AI file (with the permission of @JFK1980 , of course) in the thread soon for you all to pursue your own projects. As far as the remaining prints are concerned? I dunno, as I haven’t decided yet. I’m not adverse to distributing those (1-2 each, & perhaps at no cost, except shipping). Let’s see how the new batch comes out.
That laminate looks pretty damn good to me, nice find and for the right price too.
I’ve had the same issues as you with colour matching the grey, I actually spent an hour at my local printers (with my laptop) tweaking the colour and printing proofs to try and get as close as possible. I gave up in the end as, like you, with CMY all set to 0% I was still getting colour tints. I think local printers don’t calibrate their machines properly or often enough and don’t really care that much as they aren’t really used for proper professional print jobs. So I decided I needed a plan B as I could have spent forever chasing perfection just for it come out totally different on another printer.
So, I actually found a guy in the UK that does repro arcade graphics, it took some searching and I found him totally by accident after seeing his posts on various forums offering to help various people out with similar requests. I’ve sent the original artwork to him and he’s going to colour match my AI file so it’s as close as possible on his printer, he also uses polycarbonate laminated vinyl and thinks he can reproduce the original pretty well in terms of look and feel.
I’ve left it with him to play with now, he’s got a queue of other jobs before me, so I’ll post back once I’ve got more information. His initial quote (before I asked about colour matching) was just £24 for two copies of my artwork, so with a little extra for his time calibrating for colour, it should still come in pretty cheap. If it turns out to be what I was looking for then I’ll post his details up and you guys can contact him.
And yes, feel free to share the file(s). I’ve edited them myself too, so there are various versions floating around now.