i had an ls 56 with a custom circle gate, and EVEN stiffer spring than stock. Arms started burning after 30 minutes…but it was amazing until then. lol.
LS-56 with an octagonal gate is what I usually recommend for people looking for something more American/Happ/iL in feel, while fitting easily into a TE or HRAP. It’s not the same, but it gets you in the ballpark and has its own flavor. I feel that it’s too tight and error prone and prefer the more forgiving throw of the JLF or LS-32 for fighting games, but it’s good if that is what you are after.
Last summer I swapped the LS-32 in my HRAP for an LS-40 to play shmups and platformers. The LS-40 is probably the best stock shmup stick I have played on, so far. Very short engage. The only downside is that it is very unforgiving for FGs. I gave the LS-40 a couple of weeks when I got KoF XIII and then I ended up swapping the LS-32 back in.
What you mean by that?
For the LS-40 the distance between neutral and engage was too short. The diagonals were too close. It was very easy for me to overshoot into a diagonal or engage when I didn’t intend to. Understand that I’m in my mid 30s with carpal tunnel syndrome so your mileage may vary. Putting the LS-32 back in instantly felt better for FGs.
I was actually swapping parts between the two tonight and I ended up with the LS-40 body + shaft and the LS-32 PCB. I’m not sure if it’s just the power of suggestion, but this feels great. Good throw and engage. Specials in XIII felt more competent. I fired up Shock Troopers and it felt almost as quick as a stock LS-40.
Hmm, i see what you saying, but anyway, I don’t understand how the LS-32-01 PCB could fit on the LS-40 body. I already tried that.
It actually fit pretty well. I will try to get some pictures.
You’re right, i did it again…the PCB really fits well on the LS-40 body, but i believe what makes the difference about engagement / throw is the pivot design since the switches and restrictor distances between each other are the same. So, i think changing only the PCB wouldn’t make a big difference.
Also, using all LS-32 parts (excepct restrictor) on the LS-40 body results in a great feel, the only issue is that it makes a even shorter joystick shaft due LS-32 pivot placed on a little more deeper hole (ls40 body) but is possible to feel more throw immediately. If you modify the LS-40 pivot to fit LS-32 shaft on it, you fix that issue (shorter shaft) but the effect is nothing more than a sturdy LS-40, engagement / throw also the same.
That’s what i have learned so far swapping parts. =)
Ahh. I guess I will just chalk the difference in feel up to my LS-32 PCB being more broken in.
I had the same problems with diagonals with the LS-56 but the 8 way/circle restrictor fixed that entirely. It’s now pretty much impossible for me to overshoot and I get quicker inputs since the throw is shorter and shorter to reset back to neutral. But, as you said, everyone will have a different experience so you just go with what feels good. And in a situation like this where most lack personal experience you sort of have to go off of what others have written and see if it maybe fits what you think you’d like.
Personally, I’d love to see a thread/sticky that has all the common joysticks listed and then a few opinions written about each one regarding their feel, throw distance, force required, height, potential issues and different restrictors available. Like, the differences between the typical sanwa, sanwa with 8way, ls-32, 40 and 56, Happ, optical sticks etc. etc. That information seems to be in short supply sadly.
Yep, that’s how it starts…you get stick curious. Once you get it in your head, you gotta check em all out.
And that’s why I have a lot of sticks
Own most of them, except for LS-55 and the new LS-58 (which is basically feel wise is a 56 with a lighter spring.)
Fun thing about having lots of sticks is swapping parts, kinda like you guys mentioned with the LS-32 & 40.
Like Project LS-36
In that thread one guy had an awesome idea for fixing the LS-32 pivot popping issue that bothers some (like me)
Oh yeah this might help a little, still doesn’t scratch the itch of holding it and better yet testing it out during a playtest.
Good read for general knowledge of parts:
Part swapping is the best part of my day. I waiting, actually for a brand new JLF (never had a new one, only busted ones) and an LS-56. I need to find out more about them.
BTW, anyone know if any other Seimitsu sticks have parts that will fit the LS-30 (rotary stick)? I have a couple of these, but they’ll need new springs, switches and maybe even actuators. If I figure it out, I’ll make a small tutorial for sure.
There now passed a little time after my post in this thread.
Actually I did a lot of modding. I changed the height of the joystick (distance from the top of the pannel to the bottom of the balltop) to 23 mm (slagcoin says, its the standard for japanese sticks) with some ring washers (which works very! good, its possible to adjust the height in mm scale). I got used to the height very fast (a matter of minutes lol) and actually am quite content with the LS - 56 and the standard square gate.
But I wanted to have some more fun with modding and trying out new equipment, so I purchased a LS - 32 and gave it a shot. What can I say… Really its the worst stick I ever played on, I cant really understand his good reputation. I knew of the pivot jumping problem while activating the switches and pressing against the restrictor gate, but I always thought that these people must ride the gate unnecessary hard with whole arm motions or some rage stuff. But thats not the case, the stick is “lifting” with, I would say moderate play, I’m really not unnecessary hard on it (It’s especially noticable when you hold down/back to block, the whole shaft ist lifting a bit, it feels unteady). It’s not a big deal, it’s not a hindrance to the motion and the stick is fine in the other terms, but it feels so damn cheap!!! For me it’s qlearly some kind of contruction error and definitely not a thing I would have imagined from “quality made in Japan”. I mean not even the worst chinese copys in some cheap sticks feel that unsteady. Now I have tried it out and sending it back to the shop, so no money wasted. It’s just for principle, I’m not going to swap the stock chinese parts for quality japanese arcade parts for this cheap constructional error, it’s like a joke. I will try out the JLF in the future, still have it laying down at home for weeks now, but no time to finish the arcade stick building project yet.
Swapped the LS - 32 for the 56 again and am totally happy with it, I don’t hope that the JLF is the next disappointment (But the jlf feels much more sturdy than the ls 32 and the motion is stable).
I will definitely try a LS 58 spring for the LS 56 soon.
i prefer the LS. its firmer… clickier.
Lots of good info, you guys answered a lot of my Q’s. My stock TE stick is worn out and wobbly, even when tightened down securely… but oddly enough has developed a stiffness to it that I really prefer, but everyone who picks up my stick says its too stiff and implies thats not typical of a Sanwa. I dont like the sticks that move when you breathe on them, hard to know where ur at on teh axis! Ok so Im definitely going with the ls56 I’ve been using a square gate but a couple of you have really praised the octo… anyone else have an opinion on square vs octo with the ls56? Thanks guys… I cant wait to tinker around w this stuff
great info thnx!
This stick fits in Qanba? is This model Seimitsu LS-56-01 or LS-58-01?
Also, if you’re going to get a Seimitsu stick on the Qanba it’s best to make sure you have the SE plate mounted on them
Holy moly dude. 2013? This couldn’t have been asked (what is the difference between LS-56 and LS-58? So does this S-plate fit Qanba sticks?) in the Q&A thread?
A LS-58 is a LS-56 with less spring tension. To which Qanba stick are you referring?
Qanba Q1. Other Dude.
What´s difference is there betwen Seimitsu LS-40 and LS-56?