SFAC stick not working


#1

I had won a SFAC stick on ebay and i just received the item today. The stick itself is great and i have a competition joystick and buttons on they way from happ. The only issues is the stick doesn’t work. Initially i had plugged it into my computer with my super joy box and tried to configure with xpadder, but xpadder went crazy. In terms of crazy the pad and buttons started to activate randomly. Next i try to play 3rd strike and the playstation doesn’t even recognize that i have it plugged in. I have not tried the xbox port since i don’t have one, yet i don’t intend on using that side often. Does anyone know what the issues may be and why it wont work? Any possible solutions from anyone? I will post pictures of the inside upon request.


#2

The pcb is probably bad. You could hack a psx pad and use converters if you want to play with other consoles.


#3

The pcb’s suck on the anniversary stick.


#4

So i should go ahead and do all the repairs rather than try to return the item and get another stick? Just seems like i don’t have the greatest luck since my last mas had issues with the pcb/cord and now this stick.


#5

your best bet is to just hack a new pcb of a console of your choice. not that hard, plus the SFAC stick has plenty of room for the pcb.


#6

When using exotic ass adapters, it is best to use the tried and true pcbs such as the dualshock. The SFAC pcb works great with a few adapters, but not all of them.


#7

i have the anniversary stick … and sometimes that happens. it has never happened on the ps2 or the xbox tho … im pretty sure its the adapter thats fucked and not the sfac stick


#8

Mine worked like absolute shit with a PSX adapter, but runs like a champ with the XBox side.

The only problem I had with mine was that the PS2 port stopped functioning. (!)
It didn’t bother me so much for console use, because I don’t own a PS2…

I say if you want to use it on the PC, get a Super Joybox 9 from PlayAsia. It should work fine.

Edit:

There are at least 2 PCB versions floating around. Seems like some work flawlessly with PlayStation-to-USB convertors, and others won’t. Mine didn’t work before, and is now a non-issue.


#9

If you’re just trying to get it running on a PC… You can pretty easily hack the Xbox side connector straight to USB. You basically just need to splice 4-5 wires


#10

Also true, if you’re prepared to lose all XBox/PC functionality if you screw it up, and regular XBox functionality even if it is done right.

For me, that was unacceptable, so I went with the converter.


#11

i think i might just keep it then. modding isnt too hard i guess. i modded with happ a few mins ago and that wasnt hard at all. will post pics tomorrow asap


#12

ive played on the pc for over a year now with the stick and had a few breakdowns… if you look at button mapping on fba or mame or something when you get that error it will show that all buttons are mashing down uncontrollingly and at random. i also use the super dual box pro as adapter and ive noticed that when it breaks down its when im using other usb things. im suspecting the adapter not the pcb.

the haywire button pressing has never happened to me on a console … not once on ps2 or xbox. my friend who also uses the sfac stick happ modded with a super dual box pro adapter has never had this issue ever …not even on pc


#13

ok well i have this
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/6070/dsc00120de4.th.jpg
My laptop that i use for some games here and there. (nulldc, mame, nfb) With the new stick.

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/5235/dsc00121jy7.th.jpg
Freshly modded with comp. stick and buttons.:bgrin: (Since the stock parts suck monkey balls)

Sorry for the quality as i used my phone to take the pictures


#14

im modding mine with happ tomorrow … only got the soldering left. that stick looks hot.
at first i thought you modded it with 8 happ hole plugs …lol. im going with 6 buttons tho .and plugging the two at the end. tournament style


#15

i was actually thinking about doing the six button as my previous sticks had them. Actually i think i should have since i only use six buttons. I dont use custom buttons or anything, yet some friends who use it may put those 2 buttons to use.


#16

I disagree(somewhat). For the most part the PCBs are decent, my modded SFAC has always functioned perfect on my PS2, and the few times i used it for X-Box.

Main drawback of the AC PCB, is it is not converter friendly, and won’t work at all on my PC through an adapter.

There was ZERO soldering required when i modded my AC, thanks to quick disconnects.

I originally had my stick as 6-button, but later added the other two for the full 8-button layout. Seemed kind of a waste to just leave those perfectly good spaces empty.

Also would hate the run into a fighter one day that uses more than 6 buttons and then regret not adding them sooner. As far as i know only MK titles require more than 6(four attack buttons, throw, block, and style change).


#17

uhm i havent done this before … there is no need to solder the. “quick dissconnects” onto the microswitches ???

the “kabel shoes/quick dissconnects” fit pretty good …but if im not required to solder them i would like to at least do something to make sure they dont fall off during my somewhat rough sf play. could i just use a plyer and just tighten them then ?

if this goes to hell. im subscribing this my sfac stick dosent work tread


#18

Quick disconnects make it where there is no soldering whatsoever, and they fit/plug onto the ends of the microswitches quite tightly too. So there will be no need of tightening afterwards.

Unless you buy some QDs that are a bit large for the connection. Sites that sell happ buttons such as the official site, will usually mention specifically what size QD you’ll need though. So its just a matter of being sure to get that exact size at whatever electronics store you shop at(got my stuff from radioshack).

Easy stuff. As long as you have the right size quick disconnects, and an effective wire stripper & crimper tool, its no problem.

Edit: Be sure to get a GOOD wire stripper too, as there are a bunch of crappy ones out there that make the job harder than it has to be. One such as this will be excellent:
http://www.azarpartoo.com/images/6PK-223.jpg


#19

im finished modding now … took me from 16 pm to 19pm.
of course there was no soldering , but the quick dissconnects were a little vide on the button microswitches so i thought about soldering , but i ended up using a plyer and just tightening them a bit so they wont fall off when i rumble with it. i had huuuge help from 2 electrician buddies and they totally rule with modding stuff …they instantly recognized what had to be done…lol. They just got out a normal wire and pulled out the little black wire from inside it and made a common ground cable from scrath …that could be used for the common ground microswitch for all the buttons. im like wtf how did they do that.

the bitch with the modding without question is the screws that holds the nuby tech joystick in place… get the plexiglass off and loosen them from the top …lol do NOT attempt anything else here. (spent too much time here)

TruGrave: the wire stripper i had was a crappy one indeed , there seems to be MANY crappy version of this tool out there.i had some crappy plyers as well and the screws got a little round but oh well .the happ joystick is in and its working really well.

im a little confused about the actuator tho …it seems wierd that if you turn the stick you also turn the actuator making it stand sideways and not hit the little red microswitches cleanly straight on.(the nuby tech system acctually makes more sense) anyways i played 2 hours of 3s and cvs2 now and it works way better and is more presise and responsive than that of nuby tech.


#20

3 out of the 3 Anniversary Edition sticks I have played on has had problems randomly not being recognized by the console. One of the sticks I owned worked fine for several months and just started to become more and more unreliable. Same thing with another friend’s stick which quit working in a middle of a tourney. Switch the PCB and you’re good to go.