Shorten Hori Hayabusa Throw?


Hey guys! I was wondering if anyone knows a solution to shorten the overall throw of a Hayabusa stick to match one like a Sanwa JLF? I like the tension just fine.

Maybe just switch back to a JLF? Not quite sure what to do.

Any insight would be much appreciated!


Do you mean throw or engage? Engage is how far you push the stick neutral to where it engages a direction and throw is how far it travels before hitting the gate. Either way, I remember on the Hayabusa Unboxing thread guys went into length on it. Basically your best bet is:

  1. 1mm oversized Kowal and sanding it down a bit since it snags on the gate (very easy to do);
  2. PAS adjustable actuators.

Both iirc shorten engage and throw.

Also, while your at it, get an extra Kowal and try that in your JLF. Makes it feel like a whole new stick


My personal mod is either the adjustable actuator, or levered switches and nylon spacer onto the throw part of the actuator.


My personal opinion:
Stop using the Hayabusa or JLF and use a Seimitsu joystick.

No one complains about their throw/engage.


Yes, you will want an actuator that tightens the engage and the throw since the Hayabusa’s engage points are already further apart than the JLF’s. But I also agree that if you really want a short throw, Seimitsu is the way to go.


I’ve been a JLF user for years and I’m ready to try something new. Which Seimitsu would you recommend President Camacho? Will a Seimitsu stick have a shorter throw than the JLF?

I also heard that some of the Seimitsu shaft is shorter than the JLF. Which Seimitsu would have the same shaft length with a shorter throw? Thanks!


@PresidentCamacho likes the LS-56-01 with the Octagon gate.
@Darksakul likes the LS-40 (The LS-40 will not accept an octagon gate).


Any Seimitsu currently available will have a tighter engage and shorter throw than a jlf.

As said, I like the 56 the most. The shorter shaft Seimitsu models I’m aware of are the 32, 38, 40, and the 62. All will mount fine where a jlf does if you use an s-plate.


Coming from a Myoungshin Fanta, the Hayabusa is heaven for shaking and less than dexterous hands. The oversized actuator does not have the proper geometry to replicate the smoothness of a stock Hayabusa, fyi.


Try the jlf pivot in the hayabusa


Add a gate like octo above(maybe work with square , i only try octo myself) , with two one over the other , the throw is better…just need longer screws


Try the actuators on both sticks first, you would be astonished, trust me, I was right where you are a year ago.

I haven’t been able to mod my hayabusa (or even use it tbt) yet since I’ve had to go abroad for a year for uni, so I honestly can’t comment on how that feels.

But, I have a JLF with that oversized actuator and a LS-40, and honestly there isn’t much of a difference in terms of feel. I use both and love both. The LS-40 is a great stock stick for sure though. I would have never discovered it weren’t it for Dark and President lol.

If the busa feels anything like the jlf modded (which im almost certain it would since they’re both so similiar) you’ll like it


Whoa thank you for the responses everyone! Sorry I didnt reply sooner. I attended Quakecon and completely forgot about this post.

Bunch of yall suggest Seimitsu. Might give it a try.

Not a fan of circle or octo.


As others have mentioned, changing the actuator would help but the Kowal and PAS actuators will also affect the engage. I was able to shorten the throw on my Hayabusa byputting in a Sanwa restrictor plate, which is thicker than the Hori plate. [details=Spoiler]

. [/details]

Paradise Arcade Shop just released their Hayabusa Universal Gate Plate which accommodates Sanwa inserts. If it fits exactly like modding the Sanwa plate on the Hayabusa then you can put your square insert in and it should make the throw similar to the JLF. I’ve ordered one and I’ll reply here on how it affects the throw.


Try using a jlf piviot in the hori


I tried the PAS Hayabusa Universal Gate Plate and it is not thicker than the Sanwa plate. The throw with the Sanwa square insert felt similar to the Hori plate, maybe a bit less.

If you’re set on sticking with the Hayabusa and you have a drill then you can easily mod the Sanwa restrictor plate. The plate fits perfectly, you just need to drill 4 holes. You’ll need a 1/8" and 1/4" or 15/64" drill bit (I used 15/64"). The holes you need to drill out are already marked and half way done on the Sanwa plate (see picture below).


You use a 1/8" drill bit to drill finish drilling out these holes. Then, due to the thickness of the Sanwa gate, you use your 15/64" bit to widen the hole by drilling at least half way through the gate so the screws can reach. Two of the holes get close to the plastic tabs that secure the gate insert so look out for them as the holes are widened. Below is my modded Sanwa plate. I broke the plastic tabs that hold down the insert while trying to remove it to test in the PAS plate. Luckily I had another Sanwa plate.



Or u can buy an ls-56. And if u plan on playing kof, I wouldn’t recommend a jlf. LS-56 can possibly be the most precise stick out there as long as u can get used to the short throw. I’d say if u can get used to playing without really hitting the gate, an ls-56 becomes like the best stick ever.


I am more in favor of the LS-40, but we do agree that Seimitsu Joysticks have shorter throw.


If you can get used to playing without hitting the gate at all, the throw is kind of irrelevant. The only thing that would matter would be the different engage distances with each stick.


Wait, so what stick has the shortest engage distance then? Without the use for modded actuators I mean. But hell, if I can make a ls-56 with a shorter engage distance that would be incredible.

But what I was trying to say is something like after getting used to the ls-56, when I went back to the jlf, i kinda ended up naturally stopped hitting the gates as much on the jlf. Kind of taught me to be precise which pretty much lead to faster inputs.

One thing that really taught me that being precise was important was mastering combos in kof xiii. Nest kyo for example had instances during juggles where it required u to hit f, d, df only! If u ended up accidently hitting f after df, it would result in you doing an unintentional super(one reason to use a stick over a controller). The stock Jlf’s were suspectable on hitting f after df if u weren’t careful, so it kind of required u to not really ride the gate if you ended up doing so. But on the ls-56, u could ride the hell out of that gate, the thing would just pop back to neutral after df. Although if u aren’t used to the short throw, u might end up doing unintentional jumping, which led me to trying to not ride the gate as much.