Silent JLF + Octo Gate = No go?


Hi all. Looking for input regarding an ongoing issue I’ve been dealing with.

Basically, I’m trying to get a silent stick with an octo gate that registers corner inputs but I haven’t had much luck.

About a year ago when I (and by I, I mean by wife) decided to get a silent stick but didn’t have the funds for the ‘official’ silent JLF and opted for the ‘make your own silent jlf’ kit from paradise arcade (the $10 one).
Installation and everything went smoothly but I couldn’t get it to register corner inputs consistently while using my octo gate. I ended up using electrical tape to thicken the actuator (this is before people started selling oversized actuators) and it worked for a few months but got worse over time as the sticky black goo came off the tape and covered the inside of the gate, causing the actuator to stick instead of snapping back to neutral.

After a few cleanings and re-applying tape I decided to try switching to a square gate and wow…what a difference. Corner inputs worked everytime.

A couple months ago I got a 1mm oversized actuator and switched back to an octo gate but once again, corner inputs gave me troubles so I went back to square but after a month of missing dp inputs I wanted to go back to octo so I decided to get the ‘official’ silent jlf but they were out of stock.
Normally I wouldn’t mind holding out but I had a big tourney coming so I ordered the silent JFL kit from paradise arcade (the ~$55 one). I’ve tried all the actuators that came with it (0.5mm, 1mm and 1.5mm) but I still couldn’t get inputs to work with the octo gate provided.

Are octo gates just restricting the corner inputs too much? any suggestions (other than ‘use square’)?



Pretty much, octagonal gates aren’t the best for corners.


Did you try using an optical instead of a silent reed switch instead? I found that if you hit the corners at the right enough angle the actual input doesn’t register with silent sticks. I haven’t tried an optical on an octagon gate but it should be fine I think.


The reed switches are a little different and need an larger actuator. Depending on how much the octagonal gate restricts it, will depend on how easy/hard it is to hit diagonals using one.


To be honest, haven’t looked into optical.
If octo gate doesn’t work with the silent JLF then it boggles me why it would be included lol


Wait, it was included?

This is a situation where you’re going to have to use the gate if you aren’t the type to ride it. You’ll need to be used to that hit diagonals consistently, or, simply don’t use the octagonal, use the square, and wait for a custom gate solution.


I tend to ride the gate which is why octo works much better for me. But alas, doesn’t look like its an option.
Aren’t the non silent and the silent switches the same as far as dimensions go? are non silent ones mounted closer to the actuator or something?


They’re the same measurements and they’re mounted the same, but the silent switches activate deeper than the basic snap action ones do. So this is why there is a larger actuator in the silent stick. Depending on how much shorter the throw the official octagonal gate has could determine whether or not corners work well. Seems like there isn’t enough throw to properly hit them with the deeper engage of the silents even with the larger actuator.


so in layman’s terms, the little nub on the silent switches needs to go in deeper before it engages?
maybe I need to do the ‘ultimate jlf mod’ and insert the folded paper inside the switches


I’ve used SparkCE + octo gate. it works well.

just needs a 5v hooked up (can splice in to usb cable \ connector spot on pcb)

Jayducky is selling one now.

save you $15 bucks or so. Just need the octo gate.



Just the regular jfl octo or does it need a special octo gate?

My only concern is, my stick has a remora+8arceye3, PS360+, and xbone padhack. Do you think adding another draw on the power would be pushing it?


@ChaoticMonk - Maybe you need an oct or circle gate with a larger throw. I would say to try taking the insert out and leaving it like that but there are little gaps in the plastic without the insert that would probably A. Feel really weird, and B. Damage your actuator. If you have an aluminum actuator you would only have to deal with the former though. More chance of damaging the actual gate itself that the actuator with aluminum.


Yes to the first, no to the 2nd. I am not sure it is wise to take apart a reed switch, I am not sure how fragile the setup is. You can’t do the paper fold because it’s a different type of connection made compared to the older school parts.


I’ve got a JLF with the PAS (Omron) silent kit installed - with a 1mm actuator and a 3lb spring - that works fine for me with an octogate.

I originally tried it with a 0.5mm actuator and 2lb spring - which is what I have on my JLFs usually - however, and it didn’t feel right at all…


Never even crossed my mind lol. I’ll give it a shot cause I do have an alu actuator.

Can you point them out to me please?


official sanwa flash1 kits included octogates. they were officially called JLHS-8Y FLASH1. I suggest trying that setup if you’re willing to shed some cash, the rollie FLASH1 are good subtitutes, they are direct copies of original Sanwa FLASH1. They are pretty silent too. compensate with a heftier spring for best performance.


@ChaoticMonk‌ It’s this one:


If you still have the JLF pcb and zippys you can just swap out the black actuator pins for the reds since they are 1mm longer. I had the same problem when I first got my octo gate and silent kit but I was able to hit corners just fine afterwards.


Thanks for all the options guys. I’ll try out the free ones first and see how that goes before looking into optical solutions.

Thanks again, really appreciate it :slight_smile:


I’ve tried no gate and the corners work but only if I move the stick all the way into the corner which I tend to miss when going for quick fb motions.
When I went back into the stick to mess around some more I noticed that the tighter I screw in the balltop the less movement the stick has to the point where if I tighten it all the way the stick won’t move.
Realizing this has something to do with the shaft cover, I went ahead and removed it and now theres a gap between the base of the actuator and the metal washer and while moving the stick it causes the washer to move around and sometimes pop out, causing a click noise as its guided back into place.

This can’t be normal can it?