Simple stealth mod. PICS ADDED


#1

i don’t really know how simple this is but soldering wise it is very simple.

a little back story.

i have a liking for super minimalistic and sleek design - as a result i was on a search for a way to get
rid of buttons that could be gotten rid of.

mainly:

[LIST]
[]SYNC - xbox360
[
]BACK - xbox360
[]START - xbox360
[
]GUIDE - xbox360
[/LIST]
unfortunately this didn’t happen for my wireless stick.

a few days ago i gave my friend my SF:Anni stick to wire up nicely. i gave it to him so he could do a
nice clean job - i would have just tossed it together as quickly as possible and cleaned it up months later.

not wanting to ruin anything on the casing itself i debated how to wire up a guide button to this stick without drilling any holes.

thanks to Toodles (of course) i was able to achieve this concept.

http://img2.imageshack.us/img2/2228/ladeeda.jpg

this is an ORGATE. $0.99usd. i think i spent a total of $8 on this because i bought the gate, breadboard, socket, and terminals.
1 ORGATE has the potential for 4 buttons. i only needed one for this mod the above schematic is what was used. the blue line in the pic is the common ground. i’ll post up the chip number when i get the pics up.

[LIST]
[]A = BACK
[
]B = START
[*]2 = GUIDE
[/LIST]
i’m glad to say it works PERFECTLY. drawing 5v from the VCC line on a Madcatz Retro hack. the buttons do not interfere with
anything and they still work perfectly in their original functions.

as soon as my friend is done wiring up the stick nicely i’ll post some pics. probably within the next day or so.

i don’t own a ps3 yet but i don’t see why this wouldn’t work as long as you’re pulling the 5v the chip needs.


#2

really? no one is interested in this kind of mod? oh well i thought it was cool.

here are some more pics. sorry for the not-so-good pics. my camera battery was dead so i had to use my phone.

http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/6747/use001.jpg

http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/5882/use005k.jpg

http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/271/use007x.jpg


#3

So you have to press the two buttons at the same time to act as a 3rd button? Its a pretty cool idea to save some space. Unfortunately for me and possibly other custom stick builders is reliability. While all the connections may be solid and work fine, if you ever get an intermittent problem later on it adds many more points of failure to the mix. Not sure if removing 1 button from a side panel of a joystick would be worth introducing X more junctions to the wiring


#4

it’s all a matter of aesthetics and concept. i wanted to see if it could be done. on my wireless to eliminate the view of the 4 buttons i wired tactile switches to a breadboard and put those out of view under the box itself.

all these go wired into a terminal strip i have on the box already setup - so the actual buttons like BACK and START are not affected.

i can see your point though. this was simple enough ‘design’ that i thought i’d share it with the community in case anyone wanted to try it out.


#5

Not a bad idea at all, just most stick modders are of the practical variety and this isn’t very practical. Still, thanks for the writeup and the pics. Should help someone searching to do this very thing. (Google scans the SRK all the time.)


#6

so pressing A and B together will net the guide button being pressed? cool idea, but what if you do it during a match…


#7

Good job. Just what I was looking for before I got my hands on the imp. Could you list the OR gate part number?


#8

Should be a 74HCT32 (though you’ll want a 74HC32 if you’re using a battery source instead of plugging it in). You’ll also need to link the ground to all the A and B inputs that are not being used.

This will probably not work on non-common ground PCBs. Most commons on those have higher voltage than the signals, so you’d need an AND gate, and you’ll only be able to target one button per IC with those. And it will definitely need to be HC instead of HCT for that. And it may not work even then.


#9

for this one it doesn’t matter since it’s wired to BACK and START instead of actual buttons.