Smaller dead zone(?) than LS-32 ? & Do you like your LS-33?

Hello my comrades, I have a question:

Do you guys know any stick that has a smaller dead zone than the LS-32 ? I don’t know how to explain this too well. You move the stick until it activates the switch, and then there’s this extra space until it hits the box or cabinet.

I’m thinking I’m gonna have an easier time if I can get that extra wasted movement, I can improve dashing to my left. Any recommendations ? I heard the LS-33 is pretty good, short throw and you don’t need to grease the pivot.

Thanks guys. Much is appreciated.

You can minimize the dead zone by switching out the existing microswitches with Cherry Microswitches from Happ. It activates with the slightest touch or you can perform the JLF ultimate mod thingy by adding some spacers between the microswitch plunger and the actuating metal plate inside the microswitch.

Good to know man… So, most sticks have about the same amount of dead zone space ?

Let me see if I can find that JLF mod thingy here. Thank you sir !

Most microswitches used in Japanese sticks are stiffer and have longer travel before activating so the “dead zones” are larger. I believe this was done to compensate for the softness in the springs they use. American sticks uses much stiffer springs in their sticks, so using a harder microswitches would be bad, so their switches are usually very light and activates quickly.

I have a question about what you are talking about. Are you talking about the space from between when the joystick is neutral until it hits the switches (aka the “dead zone”) or the space from after it activates to till the actuator hits the gate.

The Seimitsu LS-40 is exactly the joystick you want if you want a smaller deadzone. You may need to buy an S-shaped mounting plate for it if you are currently mounting your LS-32 with one (LS-40 can probably use the LS-32 s plate).

If the second “deadzone” I described is your problem, then you are fucked as the Seimitsu LS-32 has hte smallest one of that of any major joystick (except for some weird European ones).

Or you may be talking about how the LS-32 jumps after it hits the gate. Then just get another Jap stick that fits correctly into the mounting bracket of your cab.

From looking at Slagcoin’s chart it seems like the LS-40 has both short engage and throw distance, and I think you’re referring to the engage distance. Check this out:

I was searching for some info on the LS-40 a while back and I saw you had some experience with it. How well do you think the LS-40 would work with SFIV? I know some people think short throws are only for shmups, but it seems like it would be sweet for SFIV.

I’m assuming he’s talking about the second “deadzone”.

Just to give you an idea of what to expect - I replaced the gate on a LS-40 to achieve a similar effect by decreasing the throw - that is, the engage (how far the stick moves before engaging the microswitch) is the same, but the throw (how far the stick moves before hitting the gate) was decreased. The result is really nice for SHMUPS, where quickly moving from neutral to a direction then back to neutral is important, but it makes doing motions for fighting games awkward. Especially motions where you need to hit a corner, a lot of times I end up missing the corner because I tend not to follow the gate, since I use a square. You can play with it yourself, but I’d recommend leaving your stick alone if you plan on using it primarily for fighters.

The space from after it activates to till the actuator hits the gate.

Damn, the second dead zone from LS-33 is even longer ? Well, I believe you mentioned that it comes back to neutral quicker than the LS-32, so that might be better in that aspect.

Thanks, you guys are awesome !

Thanks for the info. Hmm… I don’t think I understood why you started missing the corners though.

Try the ls56 with an octo gate. Once the switch activates you are at the gate. If you hate octo’s then dealing with the longer throw of a jlf us worry it. But out of all the sticks I’ve tried, that combo has the shortest throw.

I think the throw is fine as it is on the LS-32. But having less dead zone could possibly help me. Not quite sure because I haven’t tried something like that yet.

Overall, how does the LS-33 compare to the LS-32 and the JLF in your opinion ? EvilSamurai’s opinion about it made me eager to try it and I will order as soon as Akihabara shop is back.

So, let me know what you guys think ! You all have been a great help.

I don’t mean to doubt that chart, but how accurate do you guys find that to be ?

You know what, sometimes that happens but it doesn’t bother me too much… do the LS-40 and 33 have that problem ?

33 is very very loose. It’s like there is almost no spring tension.

While this topic is up, anyone know of a good, easy way to increase the spring tension on the LS-32? Do I just have to get another LS-32 spring and put two in there, or is there some other way?

I tried just getting a random, heavier spring, but it’s tough finding one that’ll actually fit on the LS-32.

I checked slagcoin well before posting! It says that the only spring that you can swap is the LS-40, which it notes is the same spring. Which puts me back at the original issue: is doubling up springs the only way to increase tension?

stretch the spring, not recommended though

put an ls-33 spring in there wtih your ls-32 spring to make it a medium