So I picked up a much-coveted HSS-0130

… Bought it off the trading forum here on SRK.

I was planning on modding it with 2 MC Cthuhlus to get some awesome modern-console action going on. However, after having it arrive and holding it with all of it’s glory, I’m extremely antsy about messing around with it.

The interior looks to be awesome to mod. There is plenty of empty space and areas to put barrier strips, boards, etc. However, I have no place to put a back/guide button for 2 players on the outside. I have drilled a 24mm hole into an HRAP before, with pretty good success, so I’m not worried about drilling it out, but with the rarity of the HSS-0130, I’m wondering if it would be blasphemous to take the forstner.

Also I was thinking about just scrapping the back/guide button altogether. If you plug the two boards into the ps3 one after the other and press start on the p1 side first, there should be no reason to go into the guide menu, amirite?

Any advice?

i remember something like Start+Back = Guide with a chip and i don’t know what else (ask toodles), so you can try Up + Start to do Select and Down + Start to do Home :B

If you’re wanting to not mess around with the 0310 itself, you could use two FGWidget converters to make your own converters. One decent sized project box, two FGWidget converts, two Saturn extension cords, two MC Cthulhus, two RJ-45 jacks, and a few extra small buttons to mount on the box (for select and guide for each player, so 4 buttons), some wire solder and time, and you’d get all the awesome of the MC Cthulhu while leaving the 0310 pristine.

I’m not too worried about messing with the electronics, it’s just the body that I don’t want to be cutting into. On top of that, I’m replacing the top panel with a 6-button per-player panel. The stock parts are not arcade quality, although I am digging the thicker shaft, it’s like having a shaft cover without the cover! That said, I’m curious as to how the FGWidget converts would be used to get the whole thing Cthulhu’d up. Would you be able to clarify it?

@Korta - That’s actually a pretty good idea. Is there any foreseeable caveat to wiring the back button to one of the directionals (or even something like the fierce button)? Since the back button doesn’t do anything in any fighting game that I am aware of,

nono, the thing that it did was if only 2 things were pressed at the same time, a third one activates… not sure about the name of the thread…

http://shoryuken.com/f177/wiring-back-start-%3D-guide-button-173785/index2.html

THIS!

so you can do up + start = guide … and down + start = back… or whatever you want :stuck_out_tongue:

I seem to remember that the MC Cthulhu will let you use start+back at the same time as home already, so you could just have down+start = guide and what not. This might be a problem when navigating PS3 menus though, so maybe it would be better to double up something like RT or LT.

dont use sel+sta=home functionality on mc cthulhu if you are going to use those chips… :stuck_out_tongue:

  1. If you can, look into a replacement control panel you like, and just drill a few extra 24mm holes in the middle for the needed buttons. That’d solve all of the problems and require no modification of the plastic base.
  2. It acts as a generic converter of sorts. You assemble the board and parts, then solder the female end of an extension cable so you can plug in your Saturn controller (or PSX or SNES, depending on how you want it and set it up). When you press ‘Up’ on the Saturn pad, the wire for Up on the FGW Converter gets dropped low just like a JLF does. You take any common ground board like an MC Cthulhu, and plug the matching wires together (Up to Up, etc), so that when you press Up on the Saturn pad, the FGW Converter drops the Up wire low, which the MC Cthulhu sees as ‘Up’ is pressed, and tells that to whatever console you have the MC Cthulhu plugged into.

The FGW Converter is one half of a ‘make your own Saturn to Whatever converter’. Add a common ground Whatever board, solder it to the FGW Converter, and your converter is done. I was suggesting it as a way to make a Saturn->‘Whatever you need’ converter so you could use your 0310 without any modification at all. The downside is that the setup I describe is more expensive than just swapping the Saturn pcbs for MC Cthulhus. The upside is the 0310 remains stock.

With the possible exception of this limited edition Twin Saturn Stick, is it really worth keeping an older joystick stock?

I just don’t see that being the case with at least 90% of the sticks out there.

Sure, you have fanatics for Namco sticks but for the most part that’s only a few people. Even some of those guys go ahead and gut the stick and put in arcade parts and replacement PCBs.

I guess with these $300+ Saturn sticks that’s a different story but I’m not worried about keeping most PS2 sticks or Agetecs stock. Those seem to be common enough and I don’t see those HRAPs and most failed system (Saturn, Dreamcast) sticks getting that valuable in the future.

To me, it’s a lot more useful having a controller that I can use on multiple systems and many games versus getting a control stick that’s good on only one system and works with only one game. Much as I love having the Virtua Twin Stick (Saturn) for Virtual On, the Mission Stick (really only useful for Saturn MechWarrior 2), and the Hori Flight Stick 2 (Ace Combat 5/PS2), they’re limited to basically one system and so few games. Their utility just isn’t that great.

Looking at the one joystick I have now with an MC Cthulu, I’m going to be able to use that thing with at least 8 different systems and none of those buttons are going to waste. I’ve gotta admit I pretty much never use Turbo functions or the lockout features on the Mad Catz TE. Ditto for the analog/digital switch features on both the Hori HRAP’s and Mad Catz TE’s. I’ll take multi-system functionality over redundant buttons that are about useful as my appendix!

A solution I used is to put the extra buttons on an external project box. I routed the ethernet cable through the back and also a few extra wires to put guide and LB, LT on that box. It was extra work though. Some pictures of it can be found in my HSS-1030 album.

HSS_0130 pictures by rtdzign - Photobucket

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww301/rtdzign/HSS_0130/th_MiniProject-Box.jpg

@rtdzign - I like that solution you have a lot. I might steal it. I don’t really need the LB LT buttons, but I could put 1p and 2p guide buttons on it, as well as the rj45 jack.

My hss 0130 case isn’t pristine either, it’s not pure white and there’s a very small chip on one of the corners. Maybe I’ll feel braver later on…

Just a quick question then, is drilling into aluminum any different from drilling into anything else? Do I need special drill bits or anything?

Use 2x Dual Strike. Solved!

Aluminum’s metal… Half the drill bits out there wouldn’t be good for drilling into metal. Be sure your bits can handle metal!

When metal gets drilled into it can hit and do even more damage to skin and eyes than plastic. The worst thing that generally happens with plastic is that it melts from high RPM’s and can burn you a bit when you touch it. At any rate, regardless of what you’re drilling any time you use power tools (Dremel, drills, etc.) always wear safety goggles. You could very well save your eyesight from that random piece that flies into your face!

Even as thin as the metal in the stick probably is it’s still significantly stronger than the plastic… It also has the potential to get much hotter, too. I’ve sawed screws with both a Dremel cutting wheel and a hacksaw and metal gets incredibly hot when it’s being cut.

If you’re going to be drilling any significantly big piece of metal (like a face- or baseplate), it’s best to do this on a workbench with some kind of clamp and preferrably a drill press. You don’t want to scratch the metal all over and make poor drill holes because the metal plate wasn’t secured.

I can get away with drilling through stick plastic on my floor with a handheld drill if my biggest drill holes are 20mm but I wouldn’t dare try this with metal!

Best to look for someone who has the right equipment and pay them to do this for you… It will be less expensive to have a good machinist or more-than-competent friend who does for a living (or long-time hobbyist) make the holes for you than mess it up on your own.

It will cost you more time and money to get the equipment than search for a competent workman who has the right equipment for this job.

Depends on what metal and how thick. For really thin sheet metal you should clamp and sandwich between two layers of wood or maybe acrylic so it won’t tear and get a clean hole. Aluminum or steel you should use hole saws for anything larger than 1/4 inch.

Yeah, rethinking the drill option in favor of a metal cutter. My dad has a pair of metal shears. I’m still worried about getting the RJ45 cut in there.

rtdzign - Did you just use a hole saw? Is there any danger using the hole saw? I’ll probably get a simple mask and goggles.

yes, i use hole saws. make sure your work piece is clamped down. Also make sure you use a center punch to mark your pilot hole.

So,

rtdzign basically turned his HSS-0130 into an Astrocade version of the Hori ViewLX??

You took a two-person stick and made it one? Hmm…

So you took out the original SEGA PCBs, replaced them with a singular MC Cthulu and strung out the Ethernet cord into an external project box that you could plug in the other system (Saturn, PS1/PS2, USB/PS3/PC/Mac, etc.) cords outside of the original enclosure?

You buy a replacement faceplate for the thing from Lizard Lick or Akihabarashop or make it yourself?

Looks like a simple enough mod but that’s an expensive piece of plastic real estate to change??!

So,

rtdzign basically turned his HSS-0130 into an Astrocade version of the Hori ViewLX??

You took a two-person stick and made it one? Hmm…

So you took out the original SEGA PCBs, replaced them with a singular MC Cthulu and strung out the Ethernet cord into an external project box that you could plug in the other system (Saturn, PS1/PS2, USB/PS3/PC/Mac, etc.) cords outside of the original enclosure?

You buy a replacement faceplate for the thing from Lizard Lick or Akihabarashop or make it yourself?

Looks like a simple enough mod but that’s an expensive piece of plastic real estate to change??!

So,

rtdzign basically turned his HSS-0130 into an Astrocade version of the Hori ViewLX??
Yep
**
You took a two-person stick and made it one? Hmm…**
Yep

So you took out the original SEGA PCBs, replaced them with a singular MC Cthulu and strung out the Ethernet cord into an external project box that you could plug in the other system (Saturn, PS1/PS2, USB/PS3/PC/Mac, etc.) cords outside of the original enclosure?
Well, I got it modded with PS2 pcbs, but everything else Yep+xbox 360.
**
*You buy a replacement faceplate for the thing from Lizard Lick or Akihabarashop or make it yourself?
***Yep. LL panel + Sending Art to gameongrafix.com

Looks like a simple enough mod but that’s an expensive piece of plastic real estate to change??!
Yep.

I would totally mod this if I ever got my hands on one. You could always use PCB stand mounted with hot glue. Should come off rather easily if you ever decide to change it.