SOCD Cleaner Kit Now Available

I’ve thrown together an SOCD cleaning board and have kits up. I just wanted a thread for anyone to ask any support questions that may come up, or read about it.

Q: What is it?
A: Its a small kit made to make using an all button controller easier to use. If you have a proper joystick in your arcade stick, you don’t need this at all. This board sees which of the direction buttons have been pressed, and ‘cleans’ it if you have SOCDs ( Simultaneous Opposite Cardinal Directions) pressed. So if you press Left and Right at the same time, the SOCD Cleaner will tell the joystick electronics that NIETHER is pressed. So, Left+Right=Neutral. Since most electronics assume that both left and right cant be pressed at the same time, the result can be random, and not what you wanted. The SOCD Cleaner makes the inputs work the way you want them to, so you’ll be up to speed on using your all button controller even faster.

Q: What about Up?
A: There is a small solder jumper on the bottom of the board that needs to be shorted with your desired setup. If you solder the two pads closest to the ‘U+D=N’ text, then pressing Up+Down will be Neutral; niether Up nor Down is told to your main electronics. If you short the two pads closest to the ‘U+D=U’, then pressing Up+Down will be Up. If you dont know which way you want it, it is very recommended you use the ‘U+D=U’ option.

Q: How do I wire it up?
A: The labels on the board should be fairly self explanatory. The right side of the board has 6 spots on it along with the ‘To PCB’. Connect those spots to the matching spots on the main electronics of your board. So, if you were to connect this to a Cthulhu, Chimp, or PS360 board, you would connect the ‘VCC’ point on the SOCD Cleaner to the ‘VCC’ screw terminal. Ditto for the four directions and GND point.
The labels on the left are where you connect your buttons. Your ‘Up’ button should have one wire going to the ‘Up’ point, and the other wire going to the ‘GND’ point next to it. Repeat for the other three directions.

Q: How do I assemble it?
A: The kit comes with four resistors. Insert and solder down these four resistors in the spots with the resistor pictures on the board. The two chips each have different numbers on them that should match the text on the board itself. Place each chip in its matching spot, verify the numbers on the chip match the numbers written on the board, and the ‘notch’ at the end of the chip matches the ‘notch’ drawn on the board, and solder them down. Solder the jumper on the bottom for your U+D setting, and you’re done.

Q: What can I use it with?
A: It will work on any common ground electronics, including lower voltage setups like Playstation 1+2 or Wii-mote based boards. It will not work on non-common ground electronics like an AXISdapter or HRAP EX pcb.

Q: How about with a PS360?
A: This should work just fine on a PS360, but I would like to make one suggestion. If you are going to use the ‘U+D=U’ setting, then assemble the board as normal, but do NOT pit in the resistor labelled R1. If you are going to use the ‘U+D=N’ setting, then DO put in the R1 resistor like normal.

Q: Any tech details I should know?
A: The connecting spots on both end are 0.1"/2.54mm pitch, so you can use regular header pins to connect things if you want, or even 2.54" pitch screw terminals. Hole diameter is around 1mm, so try to stick with 0.9mm or less diameter posts. Mounting holes on either end accommodate #4 bolts best.

Please let me know if anyone has any questions.

Ooh la la.
I did not know you were making.

I’m a little confused: don’t MC Cthulhu’s and ChImp SMD boards already do this?

I can totally see the need for this, but I was just curious about those two boards in particular.

I was going to order the chips itself, but when would something like this be available good buddy?

I believe only the MCCs provided to HitBox do this.

He’s selling them on his site. Second from the left, on top.

I thought there was some custom firmware that could be put on the MCCs and CSMDs?

Probably, but not everyone is using Toodle’s shizz for their SLACs.

Like I said, I understand the need for it, I just wanted to know for my own immediate purposes, since I seem to be working on a lot of hitboxes lately.

Some of the firmwares for the MC’s and ChimpSMD’s do properly handle SOCDs, sure, but it doesnt clean them in a way that prevents SOCDs for other (i.e. dual modded) boards in the stick.
If its a standalone MC Cthulhu, or ChimpSMD, there is no need for this hardware. For anything else, especially for dual mods, you’ll want one of these in it. I expect the vast majority of users will be those with original PS360 model HitBoxes, and people with PS3 model HitBoxes that want to get it dual modded.

Groovy, exactly what I needed to hear. I’ll be adding some of these to my next part order (whenever that is #_-;;).

Looks great!

awesome! i’ll be ordering some of these for Hitboxes that some locals want me to hook up for them =)

Nice, I can now offer Anti-SOCD to my options to others for stick mods.
Also saw that you [also] offer TE Bolts now, nice.

There has been an increase in. hit box mods for j&j… These will be helpful to say the least…

I think it’s pretty much safe to say that Hitbox dual mods just went up $15 in price, though. :stuck_out_tongue:

haha naa…you can still chip it but this board made it easier for sure…

Nice. Like the new bolt sets, too. Makes me wish I had procrastinated more on my order, lol.

So if i had a TE kitty, would I still need this to clean up the inputs on the 360?

I thought the 360 TE pcb was one of the ones that actually gave you the cool shennanigans with SOCDs?
At any rate, yet, this is what you’d want if you wanted it to be shennanigan free. If you’ll post up pics of how you did the wiring, I could try to point out the best way to hook it up with your kitty.

That’s my rate too!