Sold, please close


#1

EDIT: SOLD, positive feedback left by buyer.

New baby means it’s time to let go of cool stuff.

Looking to sell a pretty damn rare ASCII Stick FT Special Capcom Version (Japan Import) for Dreamcast.

As mentioned in the title, this is one of the rare optical sticks ever made. It’s essentially a Sanwa flash clone. They’re pretty damn sweet, totally silent, nice Sanwa-like feel, and theoretically should last for a LONG time. While it’s in a DC stick, it would be should be trivial to transplant to any current gen stick (I’ve got a second ASCII optical I’m running in a dual 360/PS3 stick).

Here’s more details on it: http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost...6&postcount=19

The stick is in great shape, look pretty damn close to new. It also includes the original box (which is beat to hell) and the safety manual in Japanese.


#2

Just wondering, does the ASCII opti joystick feel exactly the same as a Sanwa JLF minus the clicking noises?


#3

jeenyus1, it should after you replace the spring. Paik4Life once compared the two sticks and said that the parts in both had an almost 100% match. The only difference was that ASCII had a marginally different design such that you could use Sanwa parts on the ASCII base (base being the black plastic bit that all JLFs come with) but you couldn’t use ASCII parts on a Sanwa base. Other than that minor issue, you can literally replace everything on the ASCII stick (sans the base of course) with any Sanwa part. All gates fit on without any modding needed, moutning plates are interchangeable, springs, actuators, shaft, pivot, everything.

I would pick one up myself if I weren’t so poor at the moment… :sad:

Good luck with your sales crackbone! :tup:


#4

How’s the engage on the optical compared to a JLF?


#5

I see.

Cool, thanks Ikagi!


#6

I haven’t played on one in quite a while to compare, but it’s fairly close. If anything I think it initially feels more loose since you don’t have the click feedback.

But, like I said, haven’t played on a regular Sanwa for a long time.


#7

^^ In my experience, the directional inputs seem to engage slightly sooner than the switch-based JLFs, but it’s not incredibly different and IMO feels buttery smooth.


#8

Pix plz


#9

Pix now up.


#10

Wow, I didn’t know those cap/snk sticks were so special, I got an SNK version lying around, although more worn than yours, haha.


#11

Not every ASCII stick was optical. Pretty easy to tell though, if it “clicks” when you move the stick it’s not optical. Chances are pretty good it is though if it’s just the SNK version of this.


#12

Can you post a pic of the inside>?


#13

What is it you want to see?


#14

Yeah, no clicks at all. Maybe I would have known if I could read japanese, hah.

Might be time for some new springs and an update to the PCB’s!

G/L with the sale on this one though!


#15

The wiring of the joystick wires to the PCB.


#16

http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=3383036&postcount=19

More specifically, here’s a PCB shot, it’s the one on the left:

The one I use is identical. I used the existing wires, which were quite long (I clipped them down), but it would be trivial to resolder new wires on - big, big solder blobs on through-hole mounts.


#17

Darn, the ASCII PCB requires soldering :frowning: and doesn’t have the 5-pin harness like the flash does. I can’t solder so that’s bad news for me.

Goodluck on the sale.


#18

i have the ascii stick 3 for ps1, and the optical is great. i bought it with the intention of just using the joystick, but i really like the style of the case too (except the ascii stick 3 is programmable and i hate the layout). it’s a great stick, and they are all hard to come by. good luck with the sale!


#19

Not to try and push you into buying or anything :wink:, but the wires on it were quite long, as I remember - maybe 5 or 6 inches long. You could pretty easily strip them at the ends and wire them up to a terminal strip (which is what I ended up doing on mine, I actually cut off quite a bit of wire). I did it because I was terrified of soldering the PCB when I built it as well :rofl:. You can see it here, using the original wires:


#20

Bump and small price drop.