SOLD. Will update this thread if this is sold, or will bump if buyer backs out.
Get this guy out of my apartment!
$40 as-is. If you have something cool to trade I might consider it, might not. If you really don’t like my price then make a case for it, but I’d really like something for this machine and I think the $40 asking price is fair.
I’m located in Dallas near Preston and Frankford. This is in a second story apartment with a staircase that has no bends and leads directly to the parking lot. Local pick-up only! I will not ship this (it’s totally not worth being shipped anyway) and I will not deliver it.
PM if interested, or e-mail or IM me if you want. I prefer PM.
Bring your own help for moving it! I am just one man, I can help but you will need three strong people to move this! I recommend renting the appliance dolly from U-Haul, it has a feature that makes it easy to move the cab up and down stairs. If you want this but you’ve never moved a cab before then please look it up or ask me for advice. The cab has handles near the top that are sturdy and wheels on the bottom (though they’re not great, see below).
No motherboard included, and I’m keeping the controls and mini-marquees.
Wired for stereo MVS with select button, has Wells Gardner 19K4600 monitor in it. The cab apparently used to be an Omega Race (I’m no expert on IDing cabs but a tag on the cab says so). The wiring inside is nice and tidy, and the button layout on the CP is perfect, this is definitely no horror-story conversion. Metal control panel, held in place with latches on either side on the inside, it comes straight up away from the cab when unlatched. There’s two speakers in the cab that both sound fine, though they’re right next to each other behind the grille in the center, so you don’t get much stereo separation.
This needs work to become a 100% working arcade machine, see below for my writeup. Mind you, you can do a lot less to get it not-100% working, and still play on it perfectly fine. But I’m thorough like that and I wrote up everything.
Or not! It would work great as a gutted cab running a computer (MAME) or consoles (360, DC) or what-have-you. If you want to run MAME, 360, DC (or anything if you use a VGA converter) in it, I can throw in a 21" Dell P110 VGA CRT for free. It has some burn-in but it’s not bad. There looks to be space above BCD to drill 3 more holes per player to make the cab 6-button friendly. Replacing the CP outright wouldn’t be that hard either. Japanese controls could fit into the current CP, see below. Make this your own, easily!
I am a capable modder/repair guy but I haven’t fixed it myself since I haven’t planned on keeping it after an apartment move, and have a RGB monitor and supergun that suit me fine. Whether you want to either fix it or get it MAME/console-ready, I would most likely be willing to help you. If you’re nearby or can get me, I could help in-person, or at the least, I can write up what exactly needs to be done to achieve most of the repairs or modifications. I have done a lot of arcade stick modding, so if you want this to work on a console, I have plenty of ideas as to how to do that easily.
Again, let me reiterate that this is as-is. I will offer my help but I cannot guarantee I can have the time or knowledge to fix everything. Do not get this and expect to depend on me to get it running for you. I love a project but I’m only making the casual offer member-to-member.
Repairs it needs to fully work, and other thoughts:
Disclaimer: This is all from memory. I could well have overlooked something. I will edit this post if I remember anything else. I am not trying to overstate its condition, the price and the detailed description ought to reflect that. Please judge the cab’s condition for yourself before buying it if you don’t trust my assessment. Since the cab is being sold as-is, I am not offering a refund, including if there are further faults in it than what I have specified.
Needs new PSU. Will turn on through some voodoo of unplugging the cab, plugging it in, turning the PSU on and off, (repeat til it works) and once it’s on it’s on. But if you want to use this cab it needs a new PSU swapped in. It’s not any switch nor the power cord since the monitor turns on. A new PSU is like $30 shipped or so online and can be installed with just a screwdriver.
Needs a transistor for the monitor (forget exact part, on the neckboard, can look) for Green, no Green color at present. Verified that the transistor is indeed causing the problem by shorting legs on it as outlined in a troubleshooting guide. I have a jumper wire shoved into a connector to allow green colors to be displayed on red or green (or not at all).
Probably needs cap kit, jittery vertical hold til it warms up. Lios and I installed a partial cap kit (basically whatever appropriate caps we could find at Fry’s) to try and get solid v-hold, but it didn’t fix it. If you let it warm up (or hit the side with your palm) it will stop jittering.
Monitor needs calibrating more than likely. Not like it’s been in any shape to be calibrated for a while, and if you cap it or replace the transistor it will probably need calibrating anyway.
Monitor has burn-in (no fixing this). Was some vertical game (Galaga I think?) and some quiz game (American sports trivia I think, forget which exact game) before it was put in the NeoGeo. It’s not that noticeable actually, and it doesn’t appear to have any NeoGeo burn-in.
Horizontal width coil cracked while adjusting it, needs replacing if adjustment is needed. The width is spilling off the edges just a tad with a NeoGeo plugged in.
Monitor bezel is creased.
Needs controls rewired (fine at the JAMMA end, not fine at the CP). Got the cab when I was 14, my friends and I installed new HAPP controls but it was basically all of our first time soldering, some came undone down the line, and whenever we noticed a fault I would get some tape and foil and kludge a fix. If you’re looking to solder to new parts then it’s basically good to go, if you want quick disconnects you’d need to crimp those on. Most problems with it developed during gamenights so rather than do proper fixes I did little hacks to keep the gamenight going. I’m not proud. (Well, I’m not proud of my fixes, but I’m proud of my ingenuity, how’s that ;))
If you want to add Japanese controls, you could grind out the button holes a bit bigger and fit Sanwa or Seimitsu screw-in buttons. You can use a Sanwa JLF by attaching it to a JLW mounting plate and mounting the JLW plate to the cab. Or you can use a Sanwa JLW outright (though when most people think “Japanese controls” they think of the JLF).
You could probably make an entirely new CP out of wood pretty easily. The CP comes right out so making the cab modular would be easy.
No key for the coin door, so the lock was removed by unscrewing the nut. Dunno if the lock is around. Assume the coin door lock is missing unless I find it next time I poke around in the cab.
Other coin door stuff: two bulbs behind 25cent labels don’t light, coin counter doesn’t increment, one coin chute isn’t assembled (broken? came that way? don’t remember why, always ran free play anyway), one or both coin switches have a bent lever.
Back of machine is held on by one large wood screw, that’s all, but it’s held on sturdily (it held that way who-knows-how-long just fine while it was on location before I bought it). Dunno if it’s around, would be simple to replace. Assume the back screw is missing unless I find it next time I poke around in the cab. No lock on back (came that way). I always left the back to the side for changing games easily.
Marquee light doesn’t light, probably just needs a new light but for all I know it’s the ballast.
The cab is structually sound, but it has minor warping on the bottom. It looks like very minor water damage. The wood isn’t soft or overly bloated or anything, it just angles out towards your legs a bit.
T-molding on the right bottom doesn’t really fit. There’s an old operator fix with a screw to hold it in place, I couldn’t really get that to hold it so I used some black duct tape and it’s held fine and doesn’t look too bad. If you want to remove the tape and hold it in there I’d recommend some gorilla glue or similar.
Something is caught in one of the wheels on the back. It doesn’t really want to spin. You can still tilt the cab backwards and move it, but that wheel won’t spin quite so freely.
There’s scratches and tears on one of the NeoGeo decals, and the other has some minor nicks. Sad story time: Before Jigen passed away we went half-in on an auction for a set of two decals, each of us needing one. He passed away shortly after he won the auction and I never really cared to replace the decal otherwise.
I’m not sure if the casters are level. It doesn’t wiggle much (as much as expected for a 19" cab when two guys are manhandling the sticks trying to win at KOF). You can sidle the cab side-to-side to move it on carpet perfectly fine (way easier with a friend, he doesn’t even have to be that strong).