Sorry for the double post. Need alittle help


#1

I was wondering if there is anyway to back up the information on my Ps3 without my ps3 working.

Got the YLOD, is there any device or accessory that would allow me to take out the hard drive back up the information and restore it when I get a new one?


#2

YLOD usually means overheating. Unplug it and let it cool overnight. If it works again, use Backup Utility just in case. Recovery Mode isn’t guaranteed to work as YLOD is usually a hardware failure**. You can also try powering up the PS3 without the HDD inside to see if it boots up, see if you can get it working long enough to backup your data. I know I’m not directly answering your guestion but there hasn’t been any documentation of anyone successfully retrieving data from a PS3 without using Backup Utility. I don’t want to give you any misinformation.

**If you want to try Recovery Mode press and hold the power button on the front of the PS3 until it beeps and shuts off. Then release and press & hold the power button again. It will beep and then do a double-beep. If all goes well you will be asked to connect a controller with USB cable and press the PS button.

Failing that, try the hairdryer trick to get it working long enough to backup your shiz, then trade it in to your local game shop for money towards your new PS3 before it craps out again.

Firmware 3.6 is rumoured to support cloud storage that is supposed to be coming in the future to avoid these kinds of problems but obviously that doesn’t help you right now…

If you know, could you tell us your PS3 model and firmware version? This will help us help you.


#3

Its the 80 MGS4 FAT Version. I honestly don’t remember which one software version i had as it died, the same week tetris came out. I think that was the second week in JAN. So the software up to that time is what was in there.

Oh when I turn it on, it goes green, then blinks yellow. Everytime.


#4

It doesn’t go to red?

It might just need to be reflowed.


#5

no it don’t go red… it loads like its about to boot up. Then you get the double beep, and it starts to blink yellow.


#6

So I took it to this mom and pop, to see if they could fix it, they took one look at it and said the the motherboard is fried so they can’t do Anything. I came home and tried to the above suggestions. It still wont boot. this is what it is doing [media=youtube]TVXzN7jCcRA[/media]


#7

Your PS3 is dead. You can have it reflowed but that isn’t a permanent fix, and you’ll have to keep doing it. The problem is the poor airflow design and poor thermal paste on it. Once the solder in the chips loosens there is no going back.

You may want to check craigslist to see if there is anyone locally who will be able to fix your machine, but before you even take your PS3 there, ask if they have the proper equipment, which would be an infrared gun workbench made for BGA reflowing, and if they say yes, ask to come in and see it with your own eyes. You do not want some dipshit reflowing it with a heat gun. This would be the best way to get it fixed temporarily. It will usually cost about 35 to 50 bux depending on the person’s going rate for reflowing your machine, and should be relatively fast labor wise. If you do get it reflowed, then you can backup your data to a flash drive or a thumb stick, and buy a new PS3. In fact, you can use a hairdryer to heat up the warranty sticker and peel it off with a razor blade so that it doesn’t mark your PS3 as void, get it reflowed, trade in your reflowed PS3 for a new one at Gamestop, because they won’t be able to tell the difference, but this is up to your morals and if you can live with someone else getting your P.O.S. PS3.

Another option is to have Sony fix it for $150, which means they’ll send you a refurb with a new harddrive and you lose your data anyway. Many people who have received refurbs from Sony had their machine YLOD about 4 months after, which is out of the new warranty period. Really bad option to take, you may as well just buy a new one.

Letting it “cool down” won’t work, whoever posted that doesn’t understand the YLOD. As I said, once the solder loosens on the RSX, your shit out of luck. Fix it temporarily if your data means that much to you, but that machine is pretty much dead and you’ll only keep fixing it temporarily because it will keep happening, and the lifespan will shorten as you keep doing it, and end up spending more money in the end than if you were to just buy a new one. The game saves aren’t worth it since you can just replay the games again.

I had to deal with this shit about a year ago, bought a new machine and immediately did some preemptive upgrades to the PS3 to make sure it didn’t happen to my new machine. Buy a new one, open it, clean off the old thermal grease (extremely poor stuff they put on there in the factory) put on some new artic silver 5 and possibly check what type of power supply you have. The power supplies in the old machines get HOT so swapping one out for a better model usually helps keep the heat down. The Arctic Silver 5 compound will keep the heat transfer from the chips to the heat sink much better, and also making sure there is good contact between the sinks and the chips is really important. If you get a phat replacement, you could look for a 19 bladed fan instead of a 15 bladed one on ebay to replace it, which will help create more airflow. Sony got cheap on the later PS3’s and started using shittier stuff. If you get a PS3 Slim, it would be wise to cross check parts from older and newer models and see if there was once superior parts in the older ones, as consoles get cheaper sometimes they skimp on the designs, for example the 15 bladed fan replacing the one with 19 blades in later models.

Anyway, this should be enough to prevent any future YLOD, my “new” system, which I bought used and did this before it had any heating problems, has been running cool and quiet since I made the thermal upgrades. It takes a lot of work and research though, so it really depends on how much your investment was worth to you.


#8

YLOD only happens when the machine becomes so hot (from faulty power supply, RSX getting too hot, and so on…) that one of the chips or a piece of hardware “disconnects” from the board because the solder melted and no longer bridges the chips to the mother board, which causes a failure and the machine yellow lights. If it was a simple heating issue, the PS3 shuts off and will boot up without a yellow light, however, if it doesn’t shut off properly the heat will melt the solder and the machine yellow lights, which means it is already too late.

Also, do not ever do what is posted in bold. Ever. That will hurt the machine more than help it, and possibly do more damage so that it couldn’t be fixed with proper tools.


SSF2HD Remix: good games thread
#9

I notice the YLOD isn’t as common in PS3 as the RROD is in the Xbox 360 but it is still a issue.
Usually overheating leads to more damage. I currently have the old backwards compatible 60GB model PS3, had it for over a year now with out issues. What would be recommended for me to prevent overheating in my PS3 console?

I have did some minor modding on my 360 to avoid RROD in the first place, better performance aftermarket fan, and made some of the air vents wider.


#10

I already posted what you can do up above, lol. But I’ll make a better note for it.

1: Replace the fan with one that has more blades. For example, if you have a fan that only has 15 blades, you’ll want to find one with 19. You can usually find older, used parts on ebay that work perfectly that were stripped from YLOD PS3’s. These parts are in no way affected, so you can use these without issue. Or, you could buy this, the PS3 Whisper Fan, which is basically the same thing as the first run manufactured PS3 60 gb fans. WHISPER FAN FOR PS3 FAT Not only will the airflow be much better, but it makes a big difference in noise level too.

  1. Remove the heatsinks and get rid of that shitty white thermal paste. It sucks!! I can’t stress this enough, on my original 60 gb PS3 the paste had dried out because of the heat and wasn’t even covering the heatsink face completely. The BGA’s couldn’t even transfer heat properly, so of course, my system over heated and died. The best way to prevent this is to strip that shit off with some rubbing alcohol and replaced it with Arctic Silver 5. Newegg.com - Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound - Thermal Compound / Grease you can order it here, however, for only $3 more from RadioShack you can just get it there and save on shipping. Looks like the price went up a bit at newegg. You shouldn’t need more than what RadioShack sells anyway. Cover the face of the Cell and RSX and use a razor to spread the compound evenly.

3: Make sure your heat sinks are firmly and evenly reattached to the Cell and RSX. This was a problem on my older PS3, I could tell by the way the grease was squeezed that it wasn’t even from the factory. You want to have it firm, but not too firm that it squeezes all the Silver 5 out. Some will squeeze out and that is fine, but it shouldn’t be too much. You could also add 1 metal washer (bought easily at Lowes or Home Depot) below the screws that clamp the heat sink to the motherboard, because it is possible they may not make proper contact. Don’t screw in the screws too tight if you add washers, it could clamp too much, you just want to be sure the heat sinks are properly touching the chips.

4: PS3 60 gb models have power supplies that get really hot. I forgot the number exactly, but the PSU model usually starts with Z or APS-226, they’re both the same. Those are the early ones and were prone to capacitor failure and extreme heat output. Mine would lightly whine when the power was one, which is a sure sign the caps are bad. It also got hot. Extremely hot, to the point you couldn’t touch it. You want to search for model APS-231, it’s the good one not prone to over heating and is the newest one that will fit and work without question in the older PS3 Fat models. ps3 aps-231 items - Get great deals on Video Games items on eBay.com! They usually go for about $20 on ebay if you can find them. This one also has a plastic bottom, and not a metal one. Do not ever buy any of the APS-226 or ZSS models, because those are the awful original ones!

5: This may or may not help, I’m not really sure. But I bought a sheet of 1/8 inch thick industrial grade silicone rubber to actually insulate the space under the power supply. Originally, under the power supply there are 2 foam strips that stop the power supply from touching the motherboard casing. I replaced it with a square of this rubber the same size and shape as the power supply to stop the power supply from touching it completely, which the foam did. You can buy it here Rubber, Silicone, 1/8 In Thick, 12 x 12 In - Rubber Sheets and Strips - Rubber - Raw Materials : Grainger Industrial Supply Reason I chose this, is because this stuff is actually an insulator and is meant to slow down heat transfer. Considering the APS-231 has a plastic bottom which won’t get nearly as hot as the metal bottom from the very shitty APS-226/ZSS model and the foam under it, I don’t think the power supply was ever meant to spread heat to the metal casing surrounding the motherboard, which also acts as a heat sink to many of the other chips that use a thermal pad such as the EE chip to transfer heat to it. Anyway, coupling the insulating rubber with the plastic bottom of the APS-231 should help keep as much power supply heat off the main board as possible. I think what was happening in the earlier batches was the units with faulty power supplies would heat so much it would heat up the entire system and melt the solder under the BGA’s and cook the thermal grease to the point it dries. The older power supplies had a complete metal case, which would just get hotter and hotter. Now, the newer power supply’s top metal case still gets hot to the touch but doesn’t burn, and the plastic bottom and the rubber I added under it feels warm as well since they won’t stop heat from going to the board, instead only slowing it down and not becoming super heated during the process.

6: Since you would already have your PS3 taken apart, you might as well clean all the dust out of it. That means taking apart all the stuff inside and wiping the metallic components like the motherboard shield, the heat sinks, the airflow fain, and wiping them down with rubbing alcohol and a clean paper towel. Alcohol evaporates really quick, so it should be dry within a few mniutes then you should look for any paper towel debris and remove it.

It seems to work, I haven’t had my PS3 get very hot and unless it is a very hot day in my apartment, it rarely ever ever kicks up to more than second gear on the fan. All this stuff combined will hopefully keep my second 60 gb BC model from YLOD again. The added airflow, the newer power supply that doesn’t overheat, the much better thermal compound, and the heat sink clamps being clamped on properly all works together much better than what I was originally shafted with by Sony’s poor manufacturing on certain components. I guess not all parts get caught by quality control, but what can you do?


#11

Sorry i did not read this thread sooner.
I know alot about these systems because i actually run a business repairing them.
TheGameSurgeons.com is my website
Moonchilde is giving you some great advice.

you see the problem is that with these next gen systems is that they must use this lead free solder. The problem with this is that these system generate so much heat that when Lead Free solder is continuosly heated and cooled after awhile it gets brittle which can result in cracks and bridges.

Your best bet is to find someone on craigslist or wherever that actually has a BGA Reflow machine, i use the Jovy Systems RE 7500 myself and it works wonders.
Check to see whether they can Reball your system with lead solder because that is the best possible fix. Reballing is a very skilled and costly($100+) service but is worth it especially if you planned on sending it to sony for a ridiculous $150 for a refurb which will die in 2 months.
If they cannot reball then reflowing with the proper machinery is the next best thing. Price is usually $45 to $65, anything cheaper is usually someone with a heatgun. If your system is in general good health a reflow should last you quite awhile. It is important to make sure the person who is reflowing your system actually has the equipment they claim. I have seen so many jackoffs who claim to have a machine but actually fry your motherboard by using a heatgun so when it gets to someone like me there is very little we can do.

Honestly the absolute last thing you should do is send it to sony because that 150 is such a rip. So do a little bit of research and see what works for you.


#12

Oh this is interesting. I decided to take a close look at my PS3, the serial numbers and such. Also my I actually had thus unit for 2 years instead of a yeah and a half.
The Case is labeled as CECHE01 the backwards compatible 80 GB model, not CECHA01 and it was a “referb” with a new 60GB HDD (hence why I though it was the 60GB model). I going to have to open this sucker up and take a peak inside, see what type of fan this baby is packing.
The list before I bought the system said it was a 60GB PS3, no model number mentioned; I guess with the HDD they were right, LOL.

Moral of the story is, you never know what you exactly get from eBay.

Overheating has not been a issue yet, only time the system was warm to the touch is when I left the PS3 on for 72 hours running Folding@home.


#13

you could always run your chances with sony. be prepared to “love” sony if you want free warranty repair. it doesn’t hurt to try
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1048001


#14

You don’t even have to open it up, I can tell you right away how many blades your fan has. 15. The old 19 blade fan was only for the first batch of manufactured CECHA01 models, which was the first 60 gb one, later batches of the same model were downgraded to the 15 blade fan, so your CECHE01 will have it for sure.

Usually, over heating isn’t an issue for the first year or so you have it, but as that thermal grease dries it will start to get bad eventually. You may not have problems now, but spend at least $10 and get some Arctic Silver 5 silver compound from Radioshack and at least change out the thermal paste. Even that alone will help your system last a lot longer since the chips will be able to transfer a lot more heat to the heat sinks. $10 is definitely worth it. Probably, the most important thing you can do for your model, is check which model power supply you have. I believe the CECHE01 has the APS-231, which would be a power coated metal shell with a black plastic bottom, if that is so, you’re already pretty good to go since the power supply was one of the main components that super heated. If you don’t have that one, I’d buy one and swap out your old one, since that will be the component that creates the most heat in your system and should be the first thing you upgrade. If you do have the APS-231, you’d only need the fan and the silver thermal compound at that point.


#15

THank you guys for all your help I have found a company willing to do it for 70. They will even do a HDD upgrade if I want to. I thank you for all your help, when I buy the slim I will be sure to take steps to extend the life of it. Very informative, I didnt know about all of this


#16

Excellent thread! Quick question…

Hi guys, I just wanted to thank you for the great reading here. Very helpful information that I’ll be sure to refer to down the road!

Just curious if any of you know when Sony decided to switch from the 19 blade fan to the 15 blade fan in the CECHA01 models?

I’ve read that only the launch day PS3s (in the US) had the “better” 19 blade fans. Is this correct? And if so, those were only the ones that came with the Talladega Nights Blu-ray, correct?

I ask, because I have a 60gb CECHA01 PS3 and would like to know if there’s a way to find out if I have a 15 or 19 blade fan without opening it up. Mine did not come with Talladega Nights. It runs great, and I’m just thinking ahead so that I have a fan, an APS-231, and thermal compound on hand so that I only need to open it up once.

Thanks in advance for your help, and please let me know if I have left out any necessary information!

Christian


#17

Maybe I should start backing up my stuff. I was under the impression that a YLOD was an easily fixable issue, I guess I didn’t read much about it. My last adventure was a dead laser on my CECHE01, and having it fixed was a PITA. I just hope mine doesn’t die a YLOD death.

Good luck and hope you get your baby back soon.


#18

I hope this isn’t too off-topic, but I thought this might be related – my CECHA01 sometimes goes into “slow motion” frame skipping during blue-ray playback and won’t play normally. The systems responsive, I can navigate menus, fast-forward, quit playback, etc. Is this indicative of anything? I tried reseting and restoring.