Stick sensibility and modding questions

So I got a stick from a friend, it’s a custom stick. Nothing fancy, by the looks of it, it was a USB controller with all the connections soldered inside a wooden case, dunno the brand of the parts . It uses an octagonal gate with a bat top stick, and I’ve found that the stick is a little bit stiff, it takes a little bit more effort to move than I would like to. Is there a way to tune the sensitivity of the stick? Or would I have to buy a different stick if I wanted something more sensitive?

Also I’ve never modded a stick but I’ve soldered some circuits for some projects, if I wanted to change the buttons to some Sanwa buttons, I tried a SE stick and I liked the feel of the buttons and in the FAQ said those are the ones that come with the stick, how difficult would it be? I’m guessing all I would have to do is just remove the buttons and solder the new ones.
Is there a tutorial on the forums to replace the buttons or the stick?
Here’s a pic of the inside of the stick.

Also, eventually I would like to get a new case for the stick, is there a shop where I can get cases for sticks? I’ve checked eightarch and all I found was faceplates.

Thanks for your time

The easiest way to add a little more sensitivity would be to add some tape to the actuator. The actuator is the part of the joystick that hits those black levered switches at the base of it. You may also want to modify the spring to make it a bit lighter to push: Easy Happ Light Spring Mod

What FAQ said the SE came with Sanwa? If you mean Madcatz Standard Edition FightStick, then, no, that does not come with Sanwa, that is what the TE comes with. However, a lot of SE sticks are modded with Sanwa, because that is easy to do.

Honestly, I don’t see there being an easy way to replace those buttons with Sanwa. You will have to desolder all of the existing connections to the buttons, and then place a Sanwa button in. I have no idea how thick that wooden panel may be, but it could be way too thick for Sanwa buttons, which were designed mostly for metal panels. Screw in OBSN-30 buttons could work, but it really boils down to how thick your panel is. You will also have to drill new holes for Sanwa buttons, because Sanwa buttons need 30mm holes, while American style buttons need 1 1/8" holes (About 28.5 mm), so they will all have to be widened. Then you have to re-connect all of the buttons to the PCB, and I personally would recommend adding Quick disconnects for easier swapping of buttons later, if you wanted.

There’s not really a way to explain how to mod a custom case, because everything varies from case-to-case.

Head over to this thread for custom cases or sticks: Want a custom stick? Come in here! Official custom stick builders thread People who make these will make the case to fit whatever parts you want. You will want someone making Japanese style cases to accomodate Sanwa parts. If you like the current style joystick you have, you will want them to be able to work with American parts for Happ or IL type joysticks.

Thanks for the info. I think im gonna try the tape first and then if it’s still to stiff I’ll see if I can cut the spring. Regarding the stick, my bad I ment to say TE, I looked for an image and it was the bigger one, not the small one which I guess is the SE. The one I used was black and red with white on the side.

Since it’s too much work im gonna leave the layout and parts as they are. Just another question. If I wanted to build something similar to the TE Stick(in terms of parts and button layout) where would be a good store to purchase the parts online. I don’t live in the US but I can get things shipped out to where I live, so international shipping isn’t that much of a problem, so something that ships to the US(or is in the US) works. I ask because I contacted the guy who made the stick and he can build me a stick with the parts that I want, since he doesn’t have Japanese style parts.

Thanks again!

Looks like Happ parts.

Looks, yeah. It’s just weird seeing the levered microswitches.

You want all Sanwa (JLF and OBSF-30 or OBSN-30) with a Vewlix-style layout to get something akin to the TE.

Where are you located? There are lots of shops in and out of the US.

http://www.akihabarashop.jp/
http://www.focusattack.com/
http://www.lizardlick.com/


http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/
http://www.starcab.net/
http://www.arcadeshop.de/
http://canadianjoysticks.com/

d3v, why is focusattack.com not in the Sticky?

It is now.

Not Happ; the switches are Zippy.

Was wondering if I could just chime in on this thread as well (as opposed to creating a new thread). My apologies if this is not the correct thread. I’m looking to do something similar to my TE as well. My TE is dual spring modded with a bat top but I’m looking to tighten it to the point where it hits the microswitches with the slightest movement in any direction.

Also, what is the difference with a digital pcb?

Maybe you want the akishop ultimate mod? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QytcbzZmXaI
Tape on the actuator and the paper on the switches will help up the sensitivity some.

By Digital PCB, do you mean like the Optical PCB of Toodles’, the Spark? All joystick PCBs are digital, except for analog ones, like the LS-64. By digital, it means like the D-Pad, it only has 8 directions, because everything is either ON or OFF. The TP-MA PCB is digital, by this right.

But if you mean the optical, like the Spark or Sanwa FLASH1, or Happ P360, then, the difference is that it uses light instead of microswitches. It will make the joystick less stiff, because the old microswitches won’t be there to resist the motion as much. It’s hard to describe the real feel or sensitivity without playing on it yourself. They’re typically made to be more sensitive and higher precision, and will also last longer, but it’s $55 to get a Spark PCB to try out.

That ultimate mod is temporary though. I’ve gone through that process and it only works up until the paper on the switches wear in as well as the tape on the actuator. I’m looking for something that’s more permanent than just temporary.

I’ve heard of the P360 but that won’t fit in a TE though, will it? The Sanwa flash1/Spark is something new to my ears. I’ll do some more research into that. Thanks.

Yeah, P360 is tough to fit in a TE. FLASH1 is retired. Spark is a reproduction of the FLASH1 by Toodles. They are both designed to snap into a JLF.

Thanks for the list, I’m gonna check out those links. I live in El Salvador, Central America and some shops dont ship to my country so I just have stuff shipped to the US and then brought here.