does anyone have a diagram for the SF: AC pad hack? It would be a ton of help. Thanx.
Yeah I serioulsy need it too!!!
Well last night i was soldering cables then but my stick won’t work?? I think i fucked up while soldering… Can anyone see what I did wrong?? Did I even ground it right?? Hope someone can plz help me out.
I dunno but you’ve got a seriously DIRTY keyboard!!!
it looks like you soldered each connection to both sides of where the button connects.
This means you’ve got the whole pad shorted out, at each button there are two halves that are connected when the button is pushed, it appears you’ve connected those two halves with solder.
Anyway, if you trace each half, one of them will join up with the other half of other buttons, this is your ground, the OTHER half is what you need to solder to, but without joining the ground half to it.
I found it easier to trace the non ground circuit to where there is a small point by itself which you can solder to.
Yeah I fixed it last night. Thx anyways!
Glad you got it sorted, used the same pad in my custom stick, didn’t wanna post a picture to explain because it’s a bit messy, will make my next one a bit neater for showing off.
Yeah the inside of my stick looks like shit. But the Mas case dosen’t look half bad.
Sounds to me like you folks need to invest in a cheap multi-tester.
Plugging un-tested pad hacks into your consoles is a sure-fire way of blowing your console’s controller ports.
You’re playing with fire if you don’t test padhacks with a multi-tester FIRST.
Can you give me a link to said multitester so that I may purchase one?
I’ve done a lot of pad hacks but I haven’t ever used a multitester, I think it sounds like a worthwile investment. I don’t know anything about them though.
I’m in Australia, but most electronics shops will stock them.
Funnily enough, that yellow model in the Wikipedia link is the exact model I have!
Called Multi-testers or multi-meters they’ll measure anything electronic - voltage, ampage, resistence, capacitence, etc, etc. Any good electronics or hobby shop will sell them. For pad hacking, you shouldn’t need to go spending hundreds of dollars on a high-end model. One of these cheapy sub-$20 is more than enough. We don’t need micro-amp sensitive readouts to tell us if there’s a short somewhere on a gamepad hack. :lol:
Testing a pad hack for shorts is pretty easy. Set the multi-meter to resistence check (the little Ohm symbol). 1 is 100% resistence (open/broken circuit). 0 is no resistence (closed/complete circuit). Touch your two probes together and watch the value change.
Now touch one probe on your common ground point. Run around the PCB and touch all of your other solder points without pushing any buttons on your stick. If at any time you see the resistence value drop, it means there’s a short somewhere and you’ve made a soldering whoopsie. Do the same for the other microswitch points at the PCB level (ie: X button to O button points, etc, etc).
Likewise, go around and test each of your buttons/joysticks/microswitches after you’ve connected them to the pad at the PCB level for on/off functionality. You’ll quickly see if you’ve shorted any buttons out. Put the probe on the PCB at the common ground point, and at your button/stick’s connection point. Actuate the microswitch (ie: push and hold the button you are testing) and see if the multi-meter tells you the circuit was completed
If you’re hacking a good quality pad, they generally have a small fuse in them. If you do something wrong and plug these into a console, at worst you’ll blow the fuse. On cheaper pads (which is what I use) you run the risk of blowing something inside the console, which is not good news.
It does all sound a bit “the end of the world is nigh”. Generally speaking a short will just end up in either the wrong signal or no signal at all being sent to the console and no damage being done. But I prefer to live life on the safe side, and not take chances with my expensive toys.