I just got my fightstick going on PC, hadn’t really used it much before that. Anyways, I know it can take a bit of practice with it… anyone have any idea why my DP’s keep coming out 100%, but my demon flips roundhouse half the time? Also, in training mode with no pressure, they come out all the time. Online doing anything to button inputs?
I’m thinking I might just need more practice, but I can’t see why my DP’s would come out all the time, but not the demon flips.
look at your inputs in training mode. it’s probably just because you’re hitting a different button, and under pressure it fucks up.
see if the inputs you do for demon flip and srk match in training mode. if u can see the difference, you can see the fault
put the dumy on AI master so you got some pressure also 
better to mockup what you feel online and see how it affects your inputs.
It’s, in short, in your head. I know that that is a silly reasoning behind it, but for some reason your mind is perceiving getting a demon flip out more difficult then getting a DP out.
I know because when I do my BNB in UMVC3, for some reason if I try to do any DP motion after the halfway point my mind shuts off the ability to do any DP motion until the combo is done. That is my example, anyways. Maybe I’m the strange one.
It seems to be getting better, for some reason, when I’m on the left side of the screen and trying to do the flip, I never fully go diagonal down. Mental block of some kind I guess. Other thing too, I seem to be over exaggerating all my movements on the stick… probably cause on my fightpad, the d pad was a wide one and required you to do so. I think it’s a matter of just making smaller movements with the stick. Thanks for the replies!
Yeah that sounds about right. Also check that you have good control over the stick when you move it. I used to input tatsu into combos on the left side and get a demon flip all the time. I soon realized I was letting the stick flick back and it was inputting forward which made the wrong command come out.
Just practice it over and over and pick a number to reach in a row (like 10-15, even 20 or 30). Every time you screw up just start over until you can hit it that many times in a row.
I too had some problems when I started using my fightstick. But I made it better by adding a 2nd spring to the joystick to make it a bit stiffer and allow me to move with more precision. Here’s the video (there’s 3 parts to it) that helped me find out how to do this:
[media=youtube]4_bess6JHsY[/media]
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The spring modification is in part 3 (FYI). LordofUltima ends up using a Seimitsu LS-32 spring, but I find it’s not stiff enough with it. So what I did is I used the spring from the orignal MadCatz “Sanwa” joystick and combined it with the real SANWA joystick I purchased from Lizardlick.com. Makes a whole world of difference, trust me!
are you saying that the original madcatz sanwa joystick isn’t as good as a directly purchased sanwa from random shop ?
I did a lot of customization to mine but haven’t thought of replacing the joystick itself.
Spring + rubber tape around the actuator really help people that need shorter joystick movements.
I’d heard that MadCatz was making their own SANWA parts using SANWA’s specs. I read a lot about it online and some said this was true. Others said they were the same…
From personal experience (I bought 3 MadCatz joysticks - 1 SE, 2 TE) I found the “original” Sanwa parts that came with the joysticks were of lesser quality than the ones I bought from Lizardlick.com. My original SE lasted 2 months before I lost 2 buttons and the joystick wasn’t responding as it was at first. I bought real arcade Sanwa parts and it lasted me a year before I finally got my hands on a TE stick which I promptly moded with a new joystick and buttons. Not long after that I stumbled on these vids from Loltima and I purchased a new joystick (to have as a spare) and the new spring.
I used the semitsu spring and immediately I noticed the joystick responded better, but it was still too loose for my taste. Then I thought about using the spring from my original joystick from my SE stick (which I still had) and that’s when things became much better for me. Now I have a 2nd TE stick (SSF4 edition) and took the parts from my 1st TE and moved them to this one. So now I have 3 spare sticks (2 madcatz, 1 sanwa) and 16 spare buttons (10 sanwa, 6 madcatz)… LOL!!
But yeah, I really find that the joystick has less “kickback” and it helps me because I like to move around a lot!
That’s what I’ve heard: they manufacture the parts themselves using SANWA’s specs. Information on the internet being what it is, I guess we’ll never really know the truth. It’s a good stick in any regard. I just wanted to make sure I had the best parts possible and an extra 30$ to mod it with genuine SANWA parts was worth it.
So far the only arcade sticks I’ve tried are the MadCatz (both SE and TE), the Hori Pro EX (too loose and I hated the way the buttons felt) and my old Nuby Soul Calibur 2 arcade stick I got for my Original Xbox way back when SFII Aniversary Edition came out. As for the QANBA stick, I know DSP reviewed the stick a while back on his SF channel and he had good things to say about it (even though he may no longer be “relevant” in the SF scene nowadays):
[media=youtube]nH9K1HCl3h0[/media]
Seems like a good stick all around and it’s moddable so…
Ugh, forum post muncher strikes again. Anyway, I was just going to suggest that if all else fails you could always go the stickless route (Hitbox layout). I tried playing with the TE stick that arrived in the mail today, and after playing stickless for almost three months I definitely wouldn’t want to use a stick again given the choice.
It’s not even the inputs on the stick itself that give me problems (my execution is still around what it had always been on a stick), it’s simply the button layout. After you start using the 24mm buttons, the 30mm and the seperation just feels monolithic in comparison. The 24mm just conform and are “right there” at all times. It’s also pretty hard to screw up moves in this game when using buttons for directions, especially when something like a shoryu can be performed very easily in three very different ways. I’m not going to claim that one is superior over the other either–unless of course you play at the arcade–but it’s definitely a different experience. Plus, it draws a lot of attention when you take it with you to game somewhere.
When I was using my TE as a stick prior to modding it though, I ended up swapping out the JLF for a Seimitsu LS-32. It just felt much more responsive to me, since the JLF seems to take longer to engage as well as returning to neutral.
Also, I don’t know really how much of what Venom is saying about the parts Madcatz uses is true, but I do know that the Sanwa buttons that I had on my Arcade-In-a-Box stick prior to the TE being released were MUCH more responsive than those that are on the TE, even though they claimed to be the same. I also know that the 30mm that I’ve ordered through Lizardlick are also more responsive than the default 30mm on the TE sticks. Not that the default are “bad” in any way, but they just don’t feel the same at all. I wouldn’t be suprised if Madcatz actually uses different buttons in different models either. A friend of mine has the MvC2 TE stick, and the buttons on that were actually quite nice and nothing like those on the Round 1 SF4 TE sticks.
In fact, the 30mm that I had recently ordered is nothing like those on my Round 2. I think those from Lizardlick are actually made of a lighter plastic. The buttons on my Round 2 just feel “heavier” when depressing, while those from Lizardlick are very snappy. They also don’t seem to have the same engage or distance moving up and down either. Makes me wonder if those found in the arcade cabinets are the “sturdier” buttons built to take more abuse–and Madcatz are using the same. Regardless, the lighter plastic version just seem much more responsive to me.