Supergun controller question


Hi, i recently purchsed this supergun, my question is, is it possible to hook up a 6 button stick to the db15 connector or the player 1/2 terminal so games like street fighter work with out a kick harness?


Yes. It is more than possible to hook up a 6 button Arcade stick to this supergun
If Google translate did not fail me, controllers would hook up with with a d sub 15 pin connector the same way a NEO GEO controller would work.

You have to do some modification of the super gun if you want to use a kick harness.


thanks for the response, so would i have to solder the wires of the kick harness to the controller port or could i just connect them to the controller terminal?


What ever works for you, as long as you complete the circuit


Darksakul thanks for the response, I have another question how would I go about hooking up a sega saturn controller port to my supergun


Capcom games like SF will NEED something connected to the kick harness to use the three extra buttons per player.
You can solder your wires from a kick harness over to the DA-15 plug on that mini-Supergun so that you don’t have to connect your controller to two places, but you will still need kick harness; Capcom’s CPS1/CPS2/CPS3 boards don’t do 6 buttons over JAMMA.

Alternatively, if you’re not concerned about preserving your CPS1/CPS2/CPS3 board, you cheap out on getting a kick harness and solder directly to those contact pins… but I’d see no reason for anyone to destroy their boards like that.


Has anyone here tried the smallcab supergun with a CPS2? All the videos I see are just connecting it to neo geo games instead.


Yes I have mine hooked up to a cps1 board.


I’m new to this. Are u guys using that supergun on an American tv? If so how? Via rgb encoder?


For SuperGuns you have to use some sort of Video Encoder to make a JAMMA Board work with an American TV. JROK, NEOBITZ are to very popular ones. The Gnobes is another popular one (although I don’t use it much). The other alternative is to use a Framemeister XRGB-Mini from Japan which is freaking awesome… albeit a bit expensive. This is why I build SuperGuns because the stuff they make overseas is really designed to be functional vs. clean and doesn’t need any encoding to work because EU and JP were smart and adopted an RGB mentality when selling TVs.

To use that small cab you need to use it with a Framemeister. It doesn’t have any sort of video encoding that I can tell which means sorry America, your SOL. That instantly adds $300 to the cost of that SuperGun. You can get away with hacking an encoder into that setup by sitting another exposed PCB next to it, but is that clean? Is it safe? Will it be protected?

For the kick-harness questions you need this: to make it work with CPS2 stuff. DO NOT SOLDER TO YOUR BOARD! You are saving some money but ruining a board… and its a huge ass pain to fix later if you do it wrong. Do it right, get a kick harness… just dont cheap out and buy a crappy one. You will end up buying a good quality one in a few months when it doesn’t work (experience).


If you look at the board, there are terminal blocks for all of the buttons on P1 and P2. Simply wire the 4,5,6 buttons to the appropriate player blocks. No hacking necessary, no soldering necessary.

Look at the lower left:


I’m not great at soldering so I don’t wanna have a huge DIY project on my hands. From the looks of that pic, I can just use the screw terminals at the video section and wire that part up to jrok and I should be good to go, right?


That’s right. I recommend picking it up from Xian Xi ( I have been working on carrying the JROK for a while but James is a tough person to nail down. Xian Xi has a good stock and is a very trusted name in the SuperGun world.


I have a chimp smd that soldered to my madcatz stick. The screw terminals on it aren’t being used. Can I run wires from the screw terminals to a db15 port to use it as a stick for my supergun while it already has buttons soldered to the board for use in the madcatz stick?


That should work since the solder points are connected to the screw terminals electrically. They should meet up before they go to the onboard controller. Just don’t apply power to the Chimp via the USB port while its hooked up to the USB Port. If you need/want a completely solderless solution, I have solderless DB-15 connections for sale @

NOTE: I dont have a CHIMP SMD, and am relying on “normal” PCB Design techniques and what I have seen with similar boards like the P360+