A week or two ago I broke my first fight stick (hori ex2) via rage quit/punch. So just recently I began looking for a new stick and lo and behold there is an SF4 SE fightstick for sale on craigslist for 40 bucks, so I bought it. Picked it up today, plugged it into the xbox and started playing and noticed that my character wouldn’t block when crouched from one side of the screen, so I went to training mode and found out that the down-left direction on the stick doesn’t work. So here’s my question: If I buy a JLF online and install it into the stick, will that problem most likely go away? Or could there be a problem with the PCB/wiring?
Does left work by itself? Does down and the rest of the directions work by themselves? Is the slide switch set to ‘DP’?
Yes, left works perfectly by itself, so does down and the rest of the directions, sometimes down-left will work, but not every time. And yes the slide is set to DP.
Whenever that particular behavior has happened to me, it’s just been a symptom of one of the joystick microswitches going out. Not necessarily saying that’s 100% the only possible cause, but that’s my guess. Replacing the joystick PCB and/or dropping in an entirely new joystick will fix the problem if that’s what it is.
That sounds more like a wiring issue, to me.
Well damn, I don’t know how to solder so if it’s the PCB it looks like I’m out $40. Is there anyway I can check at all?
I had a similar problem with db not working and just replaced the jlf pcb , I think it was like 8 bucks bro and it fixed the problem… That was what mine was doing too d worked and l worked but didn’t work together consistently.it’s easier just replacing it then ripping everything apart and tryin to trace/troubleshoot the pcb.
That’s definitely a wiring issue
Where’d you buy it for 8 bucks? And is it an easy fix?
The joystick PCBs can be replaced without soldering anything. As already mentioned, simply putting in a new JLF or whatever could also fix your problem if it’s just a simple microswitch.
It could be a wiring issue as others have suggested, but has the stick obviously been opened, rewired, or otherwise modified? If not, because MadCatz sticks use standard wiring harnesses, I wouldn’t immediately jump to that conclusion. I’d consider it more likely that the previous owner just treated it really harshly (KEN MASHING FIERCE DP DP DP DP DP DP DP or whatever) and caused the cheapo-quality joystick to take some wear.
No soldering at all? Awesome! One last question: Where can I buy all these parts? =P I’ve never actually modded anything - ever.
I don’t know off-hand whether the replacement PCBs actually work in the stock SE joysticks, so you’ll want to do some research before making any decisions.
Well I’ll probably just shell over the extra bones and buy the new JLF while I’m at it too because I’m lazy. Thanks a lot Keres.
Um actually I had that same exact problem on my SE. What you’re experiencing isn’t a problem of the PCB or wiring, what’s most likely the issue is the gate has a manufacturing error. My down left wouldn’t register even though both worked fine, the problem was the gate was stopping the actuator from fully engaging the microswitches. I had to take a nail file and widen the gate a little, which fixed the issue. Easy fix and you don’t have to spend money.
Yeah, I wanted to make it clear that that was just one potential cause of the problem. I had that exact symptom recently, and that’s just what it turned out to be for me. But absolutely you should open up your stick and check the wiring, and check what Moonchilde mentioned right above this post. Don’t spend money if you don’t have to.
No, actually you should probably go ahead and replace the stick as well as the buttons. Is it the round 1 SE? If it is, these parts will go out on you fast enough. You may be able to open it up and make some quick fixes to the gate/wiring that will get it up and running for now and it may work just fine, but if you put any serious time into using it, these parts are going to break down on you pretty fast. If you’re more casual, what keras and moonchilde suggested should get you going.
Okay, so I opened up the stick this morning and took off the restrictor plate, filed it down with a nail file and it still will not work! And to top everything off I stripped a couple of the screws while opening/closing the stick. When I had the stick open I saw the microswitches and played around with the stick and it seemed to be engaging the switches just fine.
I heard the actual problem with the stock SE stick is the internal dustwasher grinding over the PCB copper traces and eventually it will always stop responding.
Don’t be stingy just get a JLF or LS32 for it because you’ll enjoy it and you won’t punch and break it anymore out of frustration at the controls. Even if it doesn’t fix it you’ll still have a great and functional stick either way.
Eh, at that point I’d just buy a replacement stick. Like a LS40-01.