Switch-less USB selector for PS3+360 "Imp": Re-Design Underway, Input appreciated

Just connect the V-G between the Imp and the MC Cthulhu. Don’t forget the “RJ-45 VCol” that goes to the extra row.

The picture I posted shows what it looks like if you use the “MC Cthulhu chart”. The first column.

The RJ-45 jack itself was optional. Those solder points between v-g are not.

Look again, REALLY carefully look again. Do EXACTLY what is in that picture he showed you. Ignore the USB and RJ45 jacks in his picture (since it sounds like you already have the USB wire soldered in). Your XD +/- is fine. Ignore the four USB points on the MCC. Change out YOUR MCC Ground to IMP ‘G’ point, and follow the directions of wiring up G-V from MCC to IMP. On a 2nd row on the MCC G-V points, take the ‘V’ point and wire that to the ‘RJ45-VCOL’ on the IMP. Look VERY CAREFULLY at rtdzign’s example. Seriously, do not reinvent the wheel with this.

Is there an updated link for the troubleshooting post? I’m having the same issue as post #443 (overheated the D- solder pad and Xbox360 is not working), but the troubleshooting link doesn’t seem to work for me. Thanks.


Excellent, thank you much! Maybe I can stop bothering Jamespoop now! :smiley:

Yes, he told me you had some problems need fixing.

Thanks for the pic, it’s in my reference library now! I opted to run the connections from the terminal strip instead of the MadCatz TE PCB, as I just didn’t trust my soldering skills for that small a point. For the joystick, I just spliced a wire for each line on the JLF cable. It’s not pretty, but it’s doable and it worked for the ChimpSMD mods I did on my own stuff.

As of last night, I had the MCC working through the Imp via RJ45 and was able to use it on a PS3 and a PC, but X360 wasn’t kicking in; the guide light would flash briefly when plugged in and nothing else. I figured, with James’ assist, that D+ and D- were bad joints, despite reading continuity between the MadCatz PCB and Imp D+ and D- connections.

Tried to clean it up today and it seems my bad luck with Imps continues; I messed it up trying to redo my D+ and D- connections (I messed one up last year that James’ had to clean up after me). I already had lost the D+ solder pad on the Imp, but when removing the wire, a thin film of plastic going from D+ to pin #3 on the 4066 came up. I assume this is A Bad Thing. I am taking to an electronics shop tomorrow to see how bad it is. I’ll likely just have to wait for Imps to come back in stock. I’m going to test the Madcatz PCB and make sure that works still tomorrow.

All this for a 4 button shmup stick… /sigh.

Now I know why I pay James to dual-mod for me! I should just leave this to the pros. At least the scan line generator works that I assembled! :smiley:

Imps arrived yesterday and are testing out great. I’m going to turn them back on the website. I can get small numbers of them out, but if you need a large batch, it probably wont ship out until Tuesday or Wednesday after the monkey can go all packing crazy on them.

Good timing :slight_smile:

Hmmm… are the new multi-console boards going to be switchless now???

What are you talking about?

There are no new switchless multi-console boards, unless you are referring to the Kitty or PS360+. But then you have completely the wrong thread.

:frowning: Bummer. I guess I misinterpreted the thread title. He’s talking about there not being a physical switch instead of a button that you hold while plugging in the stick. Sorry about the confusion.

The Multi-Console Cthulhu is Automatic Detection of all the Console it supports.
And if you add Imp v2 and Xbox 360 to Multi-Console Cthulhu, you get Automatic Detection for Xbox 360 also.

If you connect a MC Cthulhu to an IMPv2 then it will auto-detect with no switch or button needed. An MC Cthulhu cannot do this on its own with a 360 pcb dual modded to it.

Toodles, I got my imp 2.1 today. I have to say your service is amazing. Ordered it on Sunday, and now it’s in my hand on Thursday. I’ve had the PDF printed out for a few days now as I was planning everything, but the inclusion of the URL for the instructions is very considerate.

I also noticed the text saying “in hoc signo vinces” which is certainly an excellent touch. If it works as well as it looks(and I know it will), you can look forward to seeing me as a return customer whenever my brother decides to mod his stick.

I was on holiday over the weekend. Any other weekend if you would have gotten in on Wednesday :slight_smile:

I’m having a weird issue with a v1 Imp and PCBs from a R1 PS3 TE and a Xbox 360 TE-S.
My friend owns both of these sticks and since me managed to trash both of the cases by rage/accident, depending on who you ask. I decided I could probably salvage them and make one dual-modded frankenstien TE.
I’ve hooked the PCBs up to a v1 Imp. 360 Stick to the D1 and PS3 to D2. Using S+S for Guide. Connecting it to the Xbox it detects fine.
Connecting it to my PC it detects both in 360 and PS3 mode. But when I connect it to my PS3 holding the S+S it doesn’t detect.

The only thing I’ve managed to come up with so far is the KGND line that’s present on the TS-S PCB, connected to the Start and Back buttons. Though I’m not quite sure how that works and I’m not sure that would explain why it works on the PC.

Any suggestions?

Hey Toodles, I’ve got a very peculiar problem regarding the SSG setup in my HRAP3 when I added a brawl pad. I followed the instructions to a T (save for me switching all four USB solder points for PS3 and 360 on the imp, because of an early mistake I decided to just run with), and with everything but the guide button from the pad connected, I tested the stick out on both 360 and ps3 and all the buttons and stick directions worked perfectly. Now, the reason I didn’t immediately connect the guide button is because I fucked up bad and basically stripped the entire contact point for it. Then I got some advice here to dig down to the via associated with the button and solder it to that, and that actually worked perfectly.

But once I tried to test the S+S functionality, I found 2 things:
1: the guide was brought up by only pressing start and
2: when pressing start, whatever was onscreen would react to my pressing start before pulling up the guide, which to me didn’t seem all that surprising, BUT when I pressed either start or B to back out of the guide, the onscreen game/whatever would behave as though I pressed B as soon as the guide disappeared, backing out of whatever menu I was in or what have you.

The part about the doubling of the “B” input is the strangest thing to me (or in the case of the start button to exit the guide, a random “B” input coming out of nowhere) since there’s really no way for those 2 inputs to get crossed, as far as I could tell. I have exhaustively checked for any crossed wires and did a bit of removing different factors to try to weed it out, since this is my first real work with any sort of circuit boards those are pretty much the only diagnostic skills I have immediately on hand, and I found that the guide exit “B” input doubling would happen even if I accessed the guide overlay from my dashboard somewhere without ever using start to get into it (friends section or marketplace etc.).

Have you heard of this sort of problem before?
Would the fact that I left the home functionality on the PS3 on the dedicated button, and went with SSG for the 360 be the issue?

Thanks for your help, man

haha I know what you did… I’ll put it in your other thread… this isnt a problem with the imp