Tatsunoko Fight Stick stick sensitivity question


I purchased a Tatsunoko Fight stick. Its very decent. I have no complaints, it gets the job done well.
But I do have a question.
Sometimes when doing a quarter circle forward movement on the stick, if i go in a straight line from down to forward, it does not always register the down forward or down back portion of the movement.
if you specifically push deeper into the corners as you pass, it registers fine.

has anyone ever tried to increase the sensitivity of the down forward and down back positions on a joystick? as ghetto as it sounds, I bet if you could add a slight thickness to either the bottom of the stick or the directional register buttons, so that they trigger 10-15 percent easier. I wouldnt have to push as deep into corners to register DF and DB.
Anyone ever tried anything like this? I had two ideas that revovle around slicing the aluminum from an old soda can. I bet one or two layers of aluminum would provide just the right spacing distance.
mounting the aluminum onto the button face or stick base would probably be a little easier than it sounds. build a tiny cap for the buttons, or wrap one layer around the stick base.

Ghetto as it sounds, I might try it X_x

Ill probably just buy a sanwa stick when I can.

any other ideas on how to decrease the throw needed on the stick (by like 10 - 15 percent) needed to reach DF DB ?


You know what… I’m experiencing the same thing… I know I can do QCFs without any problems on my HRAP 3 then when I used the TvC stick i have to push harder in order for it to register.
Funny thing is that I even put in a JLF and I still experience it.
I’m guessing it has something to do with the sloping of the stick.


I give you a link to the video of Akihabarashop’s Ultimate JLF mod
It to increase the sensitivity and reduce the dead zone of the JLF.
This mod could also work for the JLF clone in the SE, TvC and Brawl arcade sticks.

Although I recommend practice first before modding. Hell go nuts.


I dunno about the Tatsunoko stick but with an S.E. stick, when you try to remove the gate, the clips feel like they’re stuck in place. If you can’t remove the gate, you can’t reach the microswitch assembly AFAIK, unless you can disassemble it from the top down… I kinda doubt it though and wouldn’t recommend trying that anyways even if it did work, if not only because the mounting plate screws might be held in with glue. They aren’t in the S.E. stick but they were in my Hori VLX’s JLF. With the added resistance, any force would probably strip the screw-heads. I suppose you could try taking apart the Madcatz clone stick but I would advise some caution to prevent breaking it.

B.T.W. the Tatsunoko stick is different from the S.E. stick. I’m not sure how but it is.


I agree that you should work with it a while before changing stuff, but if you still want to, I’d suggest putting heat-shrink tubing on the actuator. I think 12-13mm will work with some stretching (got mine from home-depot not long ago). Personally, I like the fact that the tvc stick has very little distance between engage and throw. You can play around with it, but this is a hard thing to fine-tune. Sometimes multiple layers of heat-shrink are appropriate and you may want to try wrapping the “engage” protion and the “throw” or “gate” portion differently…
Good Luck!


Yea, I wanted to get the control down before changing it also. and in general I do, you just have to physically make yourself conciously dip deep into those corners.
its a tiny bit outside the “natural” feel. though, so I think im going to mod mine up.
I understand what the paper inside the switches do. I will do the same probably, but what is the point of the tape on the black part? does that do the same effect as the tape inside? or does that just pad the stick so you dont push the red buttons harder than natural ?


Taping the actuator shortens the deadzone.

It’s actually pretty nice but depending on what gate you’re using you’ll need to use different amounts.

TvC has pretty good clone parts so it’s not really necessary to swap them out right away.


Modding the switches will reduce the engage distance, but the throw distance stays the same. Wrapping the actuator (tape or heat shrink) will reduce engage and throw if you are wrapping the whole thing. I don’t believe it reduces both by the same amount. Think about the geometry here. The wider part of the actuator is hitting the switches, and the distance the stick has to travel before activating the switch is the engage distance. The narrower part hits the gate, limiting how far the stick will travel (throw). When you wrap the actuator you are widening it, therefore reducing the distance the stick travels for the actuator to reach either engage or throw. It travels in an arc, though, so wrapping the whole actuator the same amount will affect engage and throw slightly differently (same size reduction on different sized arcs at top and bottom). Though this is slight, little differences are big when you are talking about the “feel” of the stick. I suppose you could figure out the math on how to wrap an actuator to maintain the exact ratio of engage and throw, but that would involve more complex math than I can do.
As far as I know, modding the switches is pretty much the same thing as wrapping just the wide part of the actuator, it just accomplishes it differently. You are reducing the amount the switch plunger has to move to activate the switch rather than reducing the distance the actuator has to move. The starting position of the plunger doesn’t change. Depending on your taste, doing this may or may not do the job for you. I personally like the engage to be pretty close to the throw, so wrapping the actuator makes more sense for me. You need to just play around with modding the switches, wrapping the whole actuator and wrapping the actuator different amounts at the top and bottom until you find the combination that gives you the “feel” that is just right for you (then you’ll realize you don’t like what you thought you liked and you’ll change it again, but that’s the point of being able to mod this stuff). Whether you use tape or heat-shrink on the actuator, you’re doing the same thing. I think heat shrink is more exact and durable, but I’m sure there are people who’ve done both and prefer tape.
Hope my rambling helps!


I agree with the comments on that video “Just buy an LS-32.”

That being said: I also have a different opinion on the JLF clone that comes with the TvC stick than a lot of others on this forum. On the one I have, the engage distance is much further than an actual JLF. It was especially noticeable when playing shooters and other twitch movement games (which I can play just fine with a proper JLF). Methinks you may find just spending the money on an actual JLF will be more beneficial than trying to poke and prod the MadCatz stick.