You have to desolder that faulty USB cable from the PCB board that has the Turbo and Home buttons. The cable’s definitely faulty. You want to remember NOT to let the replacement bend like the original did. This sort of thing happens if you tie the cable TOO tightly or repack it in the cable box too tightly. I normally just loop my USB cables along the thin part of the TE case body and put the TE joystick back into its original Mad Catz box with the foam inserts holding the joystick body floating in the middle. Never had problems with packing and retrieving Mad Catz joysticks from the box this way!
If you aren’t experienced in soldering small connections, I’d take it to someone who is. The solder points on that board are TINY! It’s real easy to see where to solder the mini-cables to… Before snipping the original USB cable off, leave like an inch or two of that cable’s mini’s so you can see which color mini-cable goes to which solder point. Note the connection label for each solder point (they’ll say ‘+’, ‘-’, ‘V’, and something else). Make notes of those labels and the corresponding cable colors that run to them.
When you desolder the leftover mini-cables, you want to be sure you solder the right mini-cable colors of the replacement USB cable to the right solder point on the PCB!
(All USB cables have the same mini-cable colors. They should all solder in and work. I haven’t noticed a different with the two different-brand USB cables I turned into RJ-45 extensions for my MC Cthulu PCB.)
Note also that Mad Catz has a habit of putting in an extra mini-cable. It really doesn’t do anything to my knowledge. They just put an extra length of mini-black cable in their cables. You WILL see two black mini-cables on the PCB. To my knowledge, unless someone who’s found out otherwise, the mini-black cable closest to the long edge of the PCB – looking at the PCB aligned vertically so that the Turbo Button is above the Home Button --, which has no significant label as far as memory service, does nothing really.
One last thing… Note how Mad Catz puts a ‘weight’ on the USB cable and a small ‘twist’ before it enters the USB cable hole leading to the cable storage compartment. You want to duplicate this on the new USB cable. This keeps the cable from being stretched and possibly snapping off the solder points on the main PCB.
Lastly, many stores sell 10-foot USB cables for $5. I wouldn’t pay more than $10 in-store to be honest. Check online if you can’t find a low-priced USB cable in-store. I know that LizardLick.com sells $5 USB cables. I’ve also seen cheap USB cables ($5) in discount stores, too. Fry’s Electronics should have USB cables in stock but I don’t know what their pricing is.