Thought this would be the most appropriate place to post this. From my post on reddit:
So before, I advised folks to add a resistor from VCC to the button in question in order to pull up the signal. This will work for the signals in question that are not part of the aux panel, and if you decide to keep the stick stock, this is OK for the aux panel as well. For the problematic signals that are on the aux panel, such as lock, ps3/4, R3/L3, etc., I have found the issue carries over when remodding and utilizing the signals with an EZ Mod from Jasen’s Customs, and possibly with a @Gummo EZPZ mod, and possibly even with whatever PCB you incorporate that may use those signals without a helper board.
I was able to fix this issue today in a TE2+ that was remodded with a Jasen EZ Mod by reflowing the signal (R3) from the button itself, the pin that carries the signal to the main PCB, and the associated resistors inline with said signal. I was able to troubleshoot this by disconnecting the J4 harness from the EZ Mod (the 4 pin cable that carries TPKey, L3, R3 and GND) from the UFB to make sure it wasn’t the UFB. Originally I thought there was a bridge between R3 and GND but I was wrong. I then traced it back to the EZ Mod and then determined it was caused by the aux panel (with help from @“Jasen Hicks” himself).
I then removed the turbo panel, and while it was plugged in to my laptop (try at your own risk), I heated up the components I mentioned earlier until button 12, which is the offending R3 signal) went dark. After many attempts, since R3 would stay lit after pressing it again, I was able to successfully reflow the signal and it was no longer showing as held down, and operated the way it should.