I’m New to mods. I desoldered the old hori buttons out to swap with sanwa. But the sanwa had bigger terminals. So ended up putting the hori buttons back in with silencers. My problem is that the start button does not work now. I’m thinking I fryed the pcb for start. I tried different button in start still no joy. What do u guy’s think???
We think you need to post clear pictures of your wiring job.
If it’s this, desolder all the buttons again, then make sure to clean out all the flux to ensure there aren’t any shorts from stray flux. Then try testing the contacts with a multimeter to see if it is the board, or if it just was a short somewhere.
Thanks! I’ll try it with meter. That will tell me if it’s the pcb . Oh 1 more think . I think the solder from the 2 pins were slightly touching when I tested it because when I plugged it bk in it when into pause straight away . After that there was nothing.
Yep, sounds like a short. Some games are coded to trigger inputs “on release” (same reason negative edge exists in fighting games), so this could simply be that.
Pics would be good, also what’s the deal with the sanwa buttons not fitting due to bigger terminals? sounds weird, at less you’re trying to re-solder the buttons to the pcb which is ok but not ideal.
Got copper 6mm 1 side adhesive tape. should do the trick for the lifted start and select pads. Will let u all know how I get on. Waiting on a delivery from arcade World UK. To finish this project. I’ve 1 more T5 stick to mod with cherry micro switches in joy stick lever and change all buttons out with sanwa with silencers. I WON’T MAKE THE SAME "FU#K UP AGAIN. too much heat.
Yeah. Too much heat, or holding your iron there too long.
You can always try to solder to a trace down the line.
I’m sorry but this is awful. Are you trying to buffer the sound with all that foam?
Yeah. I know it not pretty. But it works and won’t be seen.
At least you got that but personally I couldn’t. I’d like to keep my top access if need be. I’ve cut the bottom off one T5 solely 'cause it was a DB15 job, no PCBs involved but I regret doing it, there’s really no need but you live and learn. BTW, you can turn your T5 into a top access shell, not expensive at all and easy enough to do.
On topic…knowing that’s down there it’d be like a monster under the bed for me…but in all seriousness, does it help? I’ve “sculpt” foam for the same purpose, it helps somewhat but I’m wondering if spray foam would be more efficient. I wouldn’t do it to all my sticks but would like to have one really quiet shell for late night sessions.
Yeah it’s 1 ugly motha fucka under the hood . It only cost me £60 for the 2 sticks so I don’t really care what they look like inside as long as they feel n sound good. Wouldn’t dream of Butchering my te2+ or Dragon . Only light modded them with silencers in 3lb springs and EZ MOD with brook universal fight broadin the te2+ .
I hear you man, we all have our vices. Personally I prefer the T5 over the other 2 you mentioned. HRAPOG shell with seimitsu 2P layout is the balls. You can set a JLF or Hayabusa in there in case you weren’t aware.
I like the original one. Just kept it in. Think there there solid. Just add a 2lb spring n shaft cover
Love your stick. Real tidy job. Ps360 i think. I made the mistake of grip filling weights over the nut n bolt that that holds the top on when I 1st got the sticks. Cause I used to be really forceful when I 1st started playing. That’s why I had to go in though the back.
Like expanding foam? Would be messy
I think that the acoustic foam helps dampen the sound a bit