The Crossbone, Xbox One padhack with minimal effort

The Crossbone is designed to allow the user to padhack an Xbox One first party controller with ease, eliminating >90% of the soldering and work and replacing it with a near plug and play experience.

It’s very simple, unhook the original top board of the connected PCBs, and replace it with the Crossbone. All of your normal input points are then broken out, including a micro USB connector for easy incorporation to your set up.
Top Side
Bottom Side

The connector is placed at a right angle to the PCB, this allows for minimal space usage, even with bulky connectors. There is also 0.1" pitch solder points if you want to directly tie into the lines if it’s easier or better suited for your application.

The Crossbone also comes equipped with an on-board signal switcher so that 2 cables, or an external switching mechanism, are not needed. It defaults to the Xbox One, so if you don’t need it you don’t have to worry about it.

However to utilize it you simply attach the “SYS. 2” solder points to your second system of choice, and the “Switch” signal to whichever button you want to control this function. The “Invert” solder jumper swaps the selection, so that you could have whichever system you want as the primary in the chain of your particular setup. You simply solder the two pads together to activate the Inversion, see the below breakdown:

Invert = untouched
Switch signal grounded = SYS. 2
Switch signal left alone = Xbox 1

Invert = soldered
Switch signal grounded = Xbox 1
Switch signal left alone = SYS. 2

You can access the USB signals for all areas, including the ones after the signal switch if you need more advanced applications or need to debug an issue.

The Crossbone also comes equipped with a front end protection diode, meaning you can’t reverse the voltage on the main input, which should keep any accidental power swaps from destroying the board.

The board also contains spots for trigger fix resistors, in case you accidentally wreck the Hall Effect sensors while soldering the triggers, which are 2 of the 3 required solder points.


Step 1.

Remove the power board from the Xbox One controller PCBs, and connect the Crossbone in it’s place. Note that it makes things easy if you look in between the two boards when doing this as the Crossbone’s headers do NOT have plastic shrouding to help with alignment. This is because the headers on the Xbox One’s PCB are proprietary and no others have this matching material. Just take your time and when you have it aligned, press together.

Step 2.

Solder small wires to the required points, which are B, LT, and RT.

More details on soldering to these points can be found here:

RT and LT can be difficult for new users, and technically you can solder directly to the Hall Effect sensor’s pin, but it ensures part longevity if you solder after the resistor and capacitor pair noted in the diagrams and thread. The Crossbone does NOT have a 100 Ohm inline resistor on-board.

Step 3.

Solder the other ends to the corresponding points on the Crossbone, LT/4k IN, RT3K IN, and B/2K IN

Step 4 (set up dependent).

If your set up requires a secondary system attachment for a multi-console mod, select which input you want as your “Switch” and if you want to use “Invert” to adjust the primary system. The table is reiterated below:

Invert = untouched
Switch signal grounded = SYS. 2
Switch signal left alone = Xbox 1

Invert = soldered
Switch signal grounded = Xbox 1
Switch signal left alone = SYS. 2

Check out this awesome install video and primer by @Lemony Vengeance

That’s it! now you can connect the broken out points however you choose. The 3.5mm positions are easy to solder to, but will probably be offered as screw terminals as an add-on order, since not everyone wants them and they add extra height. Likewise the 20P header spot is a direct plug and play for the PS360+ PCB, but does requires that a 20P header be soldered to the PS360+ since it’s not there by default. I’m looking into ways to help avoid doing that, but soldering a 20P header is very quick work even for someone with so-so abilities.
This is the older version as you can see, but works for now as a reference to the attachments.

I screwed up the triggers by pulling off the sensors!

Don’t worry, if you can still attach to the trace somewhere, the Crossbone has you covered.

Step 1. Grab a high Ohm resistor, such as a 4.7k or 10k ohm.

Step 2. Solder it into place where the “Trigger Fix” is designated. The left and right side of the board denote LT and RT, respectively.

Extra fun stuff

The Crossbone also comes equipped with circuitry to handle the LEDs, both the Home LED and IR LEDs. They are denoted in the 3.5mm screw terminal area by HO LED and IR LED, respectively. The resistors are already on-board, so the only thing you need to do is connect the anode to VCC and the cathode to the LED control point. This allows you to place the LEDs that might be beneficial to you wherever you choose, so place the Home LED externally on your stick, or route the IR LEDs to the front of it if you want to take advantage of the Xbox One’s player recognition.

Fun fact, you can also connect whatever LED you want to the IR control and it will blink as it’s supposed to, which is fun but won’t actually allow the system to see/read the controller in that fashion.


-How much?

-I still need to solder?
To take full advantage, yes. If you want to run a setup with minimal connections and deal with button mapping you can totally do that though.

No, this thing has no brains other than to swap based on an input, this keeps costs low as the microcontroller is very inexpensive and quick to program.

-Where can I pick one up?
You can grab the crossbone, accessories, or even a fully blown preassembled kit from Focus Attack, Jasen’s Customs, and Paradise Arcade Shop

Focus Attack:

Jasen’s Customs:

Paradise Arcade Shop:


Cable length is the #1 cause of this issue. Reduce the cable length out of the stick, and perhaps the length between the SYS. 2 and your second PCB’s USB points.

Keep in mind that most of our setups are getting more complex, with more interconnects and also wires of undetermined length between PCBs.

For example, with the crossbone, many will use a neutrik or similar:
Long cable -> Neutrik -> USB A to micro -> Xbone -> signal switch -> soldered wires of undetermined length -> soldered or crimped to PS360+ which has multiple contact points for USB due to the multiple connection spots.

All that combined adds distortion, so the easiest way to combat it is to use something like a 10 foot or less direct solder cable to the crossbone, or something akin to a 6 foot cable if using a neutrik, especially the RJ45 legacy style of connections that offer 0 shielding.

Step 1. First thing to do is to remove the crossbone from the Xbox One PCB and visually inspect the soldered headers that attach to the XB1 PCB and ensure there are no obvious solder bridges.

Step 2. Once you’re done with that, plug in the crossbone via micro USB by itself, not attached to an xbox one PCB, and use a multimeter to measure the voltage on these marked points and the USB IN VCC. Do this before going any further. Place the black probe on GND and the red probe on these points.

You should see these voltages:
1: ~4.75v
2: ~3.5v
3: ~3.3v
4: ~3.0v

If they check out then unplug the board from the PC, put your multimeter on continuity check and test the affected inputs to see if they are shorted to ground, do this by itself and with the XB1 PCB attached.

Excellent work.

I am glad someone with the know-how pulled though and made one of these.

You. Are. AWESOME.
No other words can describe you and your work.

Insert slow clap here.

pics and phreakmod site arent connecting for me… is it on my end?

edit… its just my ISP… weird… got on my phone and could see it… huh…

maybe clayton banned me!


edit edit: @Phreakazoid you are THE man… wow amazing job!

  • <3

I think this is the tech that’s going to make me order 50 or more Xbone pcb’s from the Chinese. The UK is going to be flooded with mods!

Thanks guys, I’m glad you like it. The final board will be black with white silk screen I think, kinda goes with the theme… that or white with black silkscreen… hmm.

At any rate, I just put an RFQ in so I can see what it will cost to fully manufacture these, but I don’t foresee it being too expensive. I’ll keep everyone posted!

side note: It bothers me that the silk screened logo came out crappy, but in the end it will be nicely silk screened. OSHPark… love them, but their printing ability is pretty awful sometimes.

This is a real cool mod. As someone who hasn’t soldered before, can you tell me which soldering iron you prefer to use?

this is just absolutely mother fucking ridiculous

how are you so god damn good phreakazoid?

Because Phreak is the man. He is in Gummo/Toodles territory of ungodly skills.

Super excited for this. @Sith_Probe‌ I don’t think it super matters? I mean its just a matter of soldering the connections good, not so much a good soldering iron xD

Great work man. I am a huge fan. Don’t even have an XBone.

Realistically for myself, I will never buy because I padhack, but I can suggest this to a LOT of others and will do so.
But amazing work Phreak. :slight_smile:

Way I see it, even with a PAD Hack, your wiring some very thin wires to the Xbox PCB.
a terminal block or barrier strip will reduce wire strain to these thin wires and a means to easy change up wiring without unsoldering and resoldering.
The Crossbone has a place just for this. And even if you want to solder everything, you are still not pulling on these fragile wiring going to the padhack. Also there the benefit of your wire organization is made easier.

What the Crossbone does (in my mind) is a easy way to provide that important terminal block (wire strain relief) with with as little fuss as possible and keeping the whole build looking clean.

Yeah the idea really is just to save time and hassle (as usual with my stuff). Even for an experienced modder it can be worth it if you have multiple to work on. Scraping and soldering/prepping can take you 20+ minutes per pad, easily. That along with removing the possibility of wires tearing precious pads which can render a job a waste of time kind of hammers the point.

I prepped about 6 pads for a tournament a while ago… and it took all night to properly do it and I still needed to handle everything with care to avoid breaking anything during the actual installs I’m OCD about it, but still. With reduced cost PCBs + this I think it’ll work for everyone, experienced and fully able to padhack, and novices.

To each his own though, the Crossbone is there for ya if you just want to save some time and hassle!

I might scoop one of these just to do it and have around depending on how much it’ll cost me of course.

Okay, I lied, I’ll probably get one since I did kill one of my pads because of that damn sensor lol

Already have a pad hacked pcb but i’ll still get one because it saves time on wiring (my setup looks like a complete mess.)

I’m completely new to soldering and stick modification, but I really want to get one of these for KI. Do you plan to have any kind of preorder?

Also, I’m making some assumptions about the logistics and work I would need to do to set this up. I have 2 hitboxes right now, one with a PS360+ board and another that is PS3 only (I don’t know the board). Ideally I would like to add this next to the PS360+, but I’m assuming I would need some other button or switch to handle the board select and it won’t happen automatically. Essentially, that would require me to cut a spot in my ‘stick’ to place this button, which I’m not to keen on doing. Alternatively, I could just remove the board from my PS3 stick and replace it with the crossbone and gutted xb1 controller. Am I correct here? Any other ideas or tips you could give me?

As I understand it, the switch would be along the lines of something like the Paewang’s console switch: hold the button on plug-in to swap the “other” PCB; plugging in without anything held defaults to XBO. @Phreakazoid‌ Please correct me if I’m wrong here; your opening post doesn’t quite go into detail about this.

If my statement above is correct, you won’t need an additional button. Just connect the “Switch” line to something like Select, or Jab, or anything you want, and hold that button when you plug in your arcade stick.

Think like v1 Imp functionality. Just ground the switch input (press the button you wire it to) and voila, it swaps over. The only thing I guess I don’t say in the OP is that it only takes a moment to switch… and you can release said button/input. Most people will do this with the home input, like it used to be before everything autodetected.

In the case of the PS360+, simply wire that board’s USB to SYS 2 and Home to Switch.

Leave it alone and it will default to xbox one, hold Home on pressing it in for a moment and it will swap to the PS360+… which should take the autodetection route since Home doesn’t affect it’s sequence of forced system choices.

I’m already thinking of ways to wire this to Cerberus setups, with a firmware update that would allow auto-detection. Shouldn’t be hard, and would only require a secondary solder point… the RESET line of the microcontroller. Probably use one of the remaining I/O that normally doesn’t get used by the Cerberus.