The Crossbone, Xbox One padhack with minimal effort

Lemony, thanks so much for your response. I also contacted phreakazoid and I had to email him pictures because I can not for the life of me figure out how to post pictures to these forums. Apparently, I have a whole host of problems and probably bit off more than I can handle but the whole thing interests me so I’m still interested in getting it figured out. He told me to buy a multimeter so I did, however, I have no idea how to use it and the instruction manual mentioned death so I figured I’d wait until I hear something from someone smarter than me.

Couple of notes:

He said my VCC miiiight have a short on the crossbone so that’s why I got the multimeter, again I have no idea how to use it. I assume I put the red on the VCC and the black on the ground but I have no idea whether I should use the xb1 pcbas the ground or the one on the crossbone but again I am hopeful to get some answer before killing myself.

I am completely ignorant to this stuff.

It appears the JST in the back right on the xb1 pcb is no straight on with the one from the crossbone it looks crooked. I’m afraid to break the pins and the thing sits so low it’s hard to see it from a good angle.

He also said I have to much exposed wire, although I’m not sure what that would mean in terms of functionality, again I am completely ignorant to wiring but interested to learn.

When I plug it into a computer it says unknown device and a note says it is malfunctioning when plugging it in. It doesn’t do anything when plugged into XB1.

Thanks for your time, anything is greatly appreciated.

Also, which voltage on the multimeter do I select? It’s a digital gardner bender GDT-311

Just to clarify the board was indeed dead. The vcc and ground came into contact some how and shorter the entire board. Simple fix buy a new crossbones. As only the top portion of the board. I tested the board multiple times and no power. Even tested on xbox one to no avail. But I am positive that the ground and vcc together because they are fairly close to each other I don’t doubt it either the symptoms are there. All a good experience though

@mudwick Turn the dial to 20V and put the red on VCC, black on GND and tell us what it says, both on the xbox one pad and on the crossbone.

If you remove the crossbone and reset the wires to stock, will the xbox one recognize the stick?

and Pictures, to post them, put [ IMG ] before the URL, and [ /IMG ] after it :slight_smile: Remove the spaces in the brackets though.

Did you ever take voltage readings at the points that the FAQ shows? If VCC/GND shorted you may have simply blown the front protection diode. If that’s the case you can bypass that problem and salvage the board. Sorry, I thought I had asked you this before when you ran into the problem initially.

You’ll want to post this issue here instead:

The suggestions folks may have in this thread may not be relevant outside of multimeter help.

My first suggestion to you is to put the multimeter into continuity mode (where it beeps when you touch the probes together), and test things like D- against VCC and see if there’s a short. Make SURE you do this with the stick completely unplugged from the system/console, it needs to be unpowered.

Check VCC against ground, check D+/D- against ground/VCC, check to make sure that the XB1 PCB D+/D- have continuity with the XB1 IN corresponding spots, and then of course check that VCC and GND have continuity between the XB1 PCB and the crossbone TE2.

If all that checks out, the next step is to remove the TE2 CB from your stick and put the it back to stock form for a sanity check, so you’d put the outbound D-/D+ wires back to the XB1 PCB directly, put the cable harnesses back where they were originally, and try it on PC.

Explore Sean Flippo

It appears both boards may be shot. Or I have done things wrong. Both give me 0.00. It is not plugged in though, should it be?

Explore Sean Flippo
Explore Sean Flippo

here’s the pic:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c339/mudwick/20141216_140230.jpg

on xb1 in, it looks like the D- and VCC pads are bridged.

On USB out, it looks like it’s cutting it close:

Would it be possible to fix that? make the exposed part a little shorter by cutting it as well. Clean it up a bit. once that’s done, plug the USB in and test the voltage on the Xbox one PCB, then the TE2. Red on VCC, black on GND.

if your multimeter is this one:

you don’t have a way to test continuity with it :frowning:

And finally When uploading you need to use this URL tag in photobucket. no additional

tags are needed:
[img]http://content.screencast.com/users/LemonyVengeance/folders/Jing/media/f63a4796-13e5-4685-ad7d-54d4bf14c384/2014-12-17_1104.png

Follow my suggestion on the continuity check to test for a short first. Keep it unplugged for safety reasons right now.

Do you have a link to your continuity check? and that is my multimeter, how can I check it if I don’t have one that checks continuity is there a model you suggest?

You can put your meter to the 20K ohm or so setting, and if you have a short between signals the read value will be 0.00 or very close to it, if you have no short it’ll be a high value.

Lemony hit the nail on the head, those two spots he pointed out are the points of interest and likely where your issue is.

The continuity setting on a multimeter will look like this:

and if you don’t have one, Harbor freight sells multimeters that can check it for like 4 bucks. They don’t make beeping noises, but if the numbers hit zero (or close to it… they’re not that accurate) then the points are bridged, or are connected directly in some way. In your case, you don’t want that.

Well I took the wires off the crossbones to try and tighten things up but I cant seem to get the excess solder off the board where it connects D- and VCC, a client of mine suggested using speaker wire to suck it up but that isn’t working

I really recommend the $15 digital multimeter from Sparkful – beeps and is pretty useful all around!

Here is a couple pictures off the xb1 pcb

Kind of hard to tell from the photos but that back vertical JST is slightly crooked which also makes it hard for me to make sure I got a good connection

Here is my unwired semi-cleaned up crossbone

Ok to move forward? There is some smudging around the XB1 In, I don’t know if this is bad or if it means it is ruined or not, it may have been there from the beginning, I have no idea, actually didn’t notice it until the flash

And Phreak, here is my white wire you wanted a look at:

Looks way better in terms of the pads, I would still try to cut the end of the wire a little so you don’t have so much exposed wire. Even if it’s not shorted now, it’s possible that something could move/budge them and cause problems, etc. It’s just being safe rather than sorry.

If you want, right now you could put it back to stock and put your outbound d-/d+ wires back to the original spots on the XB1 PCB, put all your ribbon cables back together, and plug it to make sure it’s back in stock working condition. Once you verify that, I’d attempt the mod again.

just to be clear I should trim al the wires, what do you think about the little white one the one you said looks burnt. There’s not a whole lot of room to cut it and still have it reach.