The Dancing Destroyer's First Custom Stick


Time for another ‘my first custom’ thread. This projects will take upwards of a few weeks because I’m soldering the PCB myself, so I’m posting here in order to (1) make myself publicly accountable and (2) glean advice from more experienced custom builders.

My Parts (Parts I am in possession of are in bold)

[]Case by sillypuddy
]**Seimitsu LS-32-01 (Includes S-Mounting Plate and Harness) **
[]3 White Seimitsu PS-14-DN 24mm Pushbuttons
]8 White Sanwa OBSN-30 Pushbuttons
[]Early Xbox 360 Wireless Controller PCB
]Custom Art by Deviant Artists ~btnkdrms and kandoken

My Tools

[]Helping Hands by Radio Shack
]Soldering Iron and Vaccuum Desoldering Tool
[]Precision Knife Set
]Powerdrill with boring bits
[]Torx T8 Screwdriver
]RadioShack Digital Multimeter

I’ll edit this section as more of parts arrive next week.

Progress so far:

I spent most of the day breaking into the Xbox Controller itself. The security posts in the T* screws made things troublesome, so I bent/broke them to allow for a normal T8 screwdriver. Afterwards, I removed the triggers per these instructions:


Studying the layouts at, it looks like I have an Early Xbox Wireless Controller, which I understand does not have a common ground. Someone please correct me if I’m wrong:

I haven’t been able to find a complete tutorial on how to deal with this particular controller, so before I start scraping any contacts I’ll be searching around some more and asking for more advice. Secondly, I need to start removing the analog sticks from the PCB, so I see lots of desoldering ahead.

Finally, one last question: is there anyway I’ll be able to make this controller wired, or am I stuck now making a wireless controller?

Progress pics:


sweet, cant wait to see it finished, great graphic too lol


Yeah, that graphic is really funny. HE IS the crazy buffalo!!!


To anyone who can answer, I have a question about the slagcoin PCB diagram:

I’m a little confused as to what the diagram is indicating, but here is my understanding:

All of the following button sets share a common ground:

[]D-Pad Up, D-Pad Down, A, and RB
]D-Pad Left and LB
[]D-Pad Right and Back
]Guide and Start
[]X, Y, B, RC
]RT, Battery

Not sure exactly what RC stands for.


Right Click


The art looks awesome. Can’t wait to get my case from sillypuddy so I can start my stick.


Update: All parts have arrived; will start padhack and construction this weekend.


You could use a playncharge cable.


Thanks dude. I actually thought about that later on, but after seeing some other designs I think I’ll stick with the wireless approach.



Installed the joystick, using size 8 5/8" wood screws. Patience was the key, of course; drilled my pilot holes first, starting with the 1/16th bit and moving up. The stick is holding up well, but I may get some nuts for the other side, just because I’m a little anal about things.

Got my art printed and carefully cut out the holes; I simply put the picture between the box and the acrylic glass and traced out the holes with a precision knife.

installed the rubber feet as well; even though the pilot holes were done first, I still nearly got the screws in crookedly. However, the wood was not split, and now I’ll only take off the bottom plate using a manual screw.

I also made a big trip to RadioShack this weekend in preparation for construction. I’m going to have to get a Common Ground pad, but I’ll save that for later and practice with the pad I have. Picked up:

[] 22 gauge stranded hookup wire
] quick disconnects/fork terminals for buttons
[] 2 8-input terminal blocks
] AA Battery holder with ground/vcc wires
[*] AA battery charger with 2AA rechargeable batteries

My goal here is to wire up the buttons and joystick to the terminal blocks so that when I’m ready to install the PCB the process will be seamless. I have one question in the meantime though:

I see pictures of people having screwed on a terminal block, or a chtulu, or something else directly onto the top panel of the case from the inside. How are people able to screw items like that in so they they’re secure, yet the screws don’t pop through the top of the box?


i used double sided tape or hotglue. hotglue is perfect for stuff like that. it’s hard/relatively easy to pry from wherever you use it using a flathead. i usually glue the terminal strip to a side of the frame on the inside.

love the balrog art. you got any new pics?


Thanks, I may just go that route. However, I would like to make a nice mount for the PCB - any advice there? double-sided tape won’t fly in that case.

…I do. However at this point I would like to wait until I complete my wiring before I unveil the finished piece. I was tempted to post now, but I think anyone who is interested would be more appreciative of the complete package.

I do think it looks awesome so far. :stuck_out_tongue:


Stick would still be wireless. Playncharge just charges the controller. It doesn’t transfer inputs to the system like a wired controller does.


LOL at that graphic…balrog? with blue eyes?..LOL


Errr…yes it does. Hence the “Play” part of “Play & Charge”


wow :xeye:


I can attest to the stick still being wireless with the play and charge.
Hook it up to a pc and it doesn’t register the inputs through the cable but my pc wireless receiver still recognizes it.


Okay, I’ve been burned. I bought a new Xbox wireless controller assuming it would be the late version CG one. However, I find myself stuck with another Early version pad. Luckily the controller is still in working order because this time I used a security torx bit to take it apart and put it back together.

Is there a way I can know which PCB I’m dealing with before I open the controller package?