I’m just writing here as I’m not sure where else to ask. Are you still making ChImps? I’ve had one on order at Lizardlick for 5 months now and they’ve said on hold the whole time. They’re not replying to my emails either.
If you’re no longer making them do you know of any good alternatives I can use?
Actually I just came across that thread, wish I’d looked into it earlier! Has anyone had any luck getting their money back? I’ve already emailed him a few times. I’m out in Aus so it’s hard to get in contact.
Still, result on direct ordering, woooop! Take my money Toodles, take it all! Just give me that damn chip! I haven’t played in months as I can’t stand the input lag on my xBox stick into my PS3 with the converter card I use.
All right, I’ll give it another shot - Though, I didn’t use a multi meter this time. I broke open the female end of the extension cord and matched the colors up that way, obviously in reverse order. Last time I used the multimeter for this,the whole PCB stopped working.
Okay, onto my second 1.1v chimp and got the same problem as last time, all the voltages are correct but not getting any sort of detection on either PC or PS3.
However, this time around when plugged into a PS3 when using a second controller, which works perfectly fine normally, the controller’s inputs jump around abnormally. Not sure if this actually is related, but the controller has been fine without the stick plugged in. Also, it comes up as controller one even though it is being connected after the stick.
Pop out the 4066, use wires to short small socket pin 1 to 2, and another to short pin 3 to 4. That’ll directly connect the main chimp chip to the USB wires. If that doesn’t help, toss it and pickup a ChimpSMD. If it does, get a few extra 4066 chips and stack them.
This is done. I’ve added DirectTo360.hex to the ChimpSMD_Variations file linked in the first post. This aught to be of great help; if the Xbox360 pcb doesn’t work when the Chimp is running that firmware, then it is NOT going to work with the production firmware at all.
Allow me to remove some of the fog my retardation might have caused earlier with some pictures.
The 360 pcb is the Madcatz wired pad (late version - build date 2007) with a layout of:
However, I removed the cases and pots on each side of the back for the triggers, soldering my connection to the middle part of each side as stated in your ChimpSMD instructions.
Now as far as the wiring of the controller itself here are some pictures:
Joystick side view:
Start, etc. side view:
Button side view:
Xbox 360 PCB wiring view:
Buttons in question wiring view:
First picture is just a view of the cumulative wiring of the Chimp. Second picture is the joystick side, showing the Xbox usb power cable is connected with the respective sides. Third view is of the buttons all connected without the 3K and 4K of the triggers in question; connecting them in yields the problem in question (only A, RT and LT work when plugged in to the Xbox). Fourth picture is the Start side view with the RT and LT buttons plugged in to 3KINV and 4KINV which effectively nullifies them, making those buttons not send a signal to the Xbox when pressed that I know of but it does allow signals from the other buttons to get through (all of them, X, Y, RT, LT, B).
When I force XBOX and plug the Chimp in to my computer and do the joy.cpl (with the RT/LT plugged in to 3K/4K) it shows that everything is working, with a response ON PRESS from each of the buttons and the triggers show changes in the Z axis as they should. At no time do the buttons show as always pressed, with the problem coming from connecting the 3K and 4K to RT/LT in to my actual Xbox.
Any more information I can supply, along with pictures. I remain stumped, hoping that this is a quick fix.
p.s. I have updated the firmware of the ChimpSMD for what it’s worth, using the link to the official update from the first page of this thread.