As I said I have a soldering tool and I messed up and fixed a few guitars to learn how to use it. Yes its an xbox 360 native stick and I want to be able to use the guide button as the home button on PS3 as well as for xbox. I don’t mind the extra soldering if I have a guide of sorts telling what goes where. I looked on that site and it seems like the Cerebus was designed for madcatz sticks. The stick I am about to mod is a Hori. Does that matter?
Can anyone confirm that Toodles is still in business? Anyone spoken to him the last 3 months or bought anything from Marcus?
I ordered a piiwii in late march. Shipped fast as always. He has gone dark. Hope all is well with him.
same here. ordered something in april, all fine. also mailed him something about a nes issue i have. haven’t had a mail back thou.
(and btw, i still have that nes issue. mc not working with my pal nes)
I have a Xbox360 SF x TK TE (the larger one) modded with the chimp board.
I was constantly recieving “please reconnect controller” when playing on xbox360, and yesterday, xbox360 isn’t my TE anymore.
I tought it was a bad USB cable. But, on PS3 and PC my TE still works, wich puts that theory down. The next thing i’m thinking about is: my TE PCB has died, wich is why I can’t use it only on the Xbox360.
Anyone here got something similar to my situation? What can I do?
Sorry about my english, not my language
I’ve Dual modded a HORI stick with a common ground 360 pad and the MC Cthulhu with an RJ45 end. I’ve tested it with the 360, PS2, and Dreamcast and it’s working 100% with these consoles.
The issue I’m experiencing is with the Saturn. I’ve wired two different cables according to the diagram [here](RJ-45 Multi Console Cthulhu Arcade Stick Tutorial Ver.2 and tested them with a continuity check on my voltmeter and they checkout. I’ve attached the RJ45 cable directly to the IMPv2 board on all the cables and they all work, minus the saturn.
Since all the cables I’ve tested incorporate all 8 wires in the RJ45 (in some way or another), I’ve ruled out loose wires from the IMPv2 to the MC Cthulhu.
If this is an issue with the IC Programming (check 4 pages back, I’ve encountered IC issues before), I need to know how to completely clear the firmware and re-flash it (not upgrade), or find out the button presses that force Saturn mode to once and for all find out if it’s an issue with the integrated circuit.
I know Toodles is MIA, but If anyone has any advice, it would be most appreciated.
The Saturn support works just “peachy” © Toodles, I tested this maybe 1 month ago on SFZ2.
The problem I had before was that the Saturn wires wouldn’t go all the way down the RJ45 connector. I had to crimp on small cat5 wires (about 5 cm long) and then solder to these wires. Worked 1st time with this method.
Maybe this will help, it’s the exact same PCB iirc
i had two madcatz se fightsticks. i bought an mc and an impv2 and installed it fine in one of them. the other however, when i connect the wire for the up direction it registers as always being up when i plug it into windows to check it. i’ve looked all over the board to make sure i didn’t accidentally connect another point that may be completing the connection somehow and obviously haven’t found anything that was causing it. can anyone help with this? the mc cthulhu and imp work fine in the other stick so i’m pretty confident i just fudged the fightsticks pcb somehow. i could connect the joystick directly to the mc, but then i would lose the joystick for xbox 360… and i’d prefer to keep all functionality if possible. please help!
You wouldn’t happen to have the joystick harness on the wrong way around would you? I did that once, causing similar symptoms. Oh the hilarity.
I’m going to go a step further and solder the Saturn controller plug onto the end of a Network cable and go from there. I have another MC cthulhu coming in for another personal project and if the New cable doesn’t work I’m going to swap the ICs out.
I’m fairly confident it’s on correctly. If I connect from the joystick directly to the mc then it has no problem. It’s just when connected to the madcatz board that it’s detected as up. Such a PITA.
That’s a genuine grounding issue right there. check the madcatz PCB to make sure up and ground aren’t bridged. also, please check the alternate connection portion of the Cthulhu PCB to make sure that up and ground aren’t bridged there as well.
So, I got the 2nd Cthulhu PCB in and tested the Saturn cable on it (Neutrick RJ45 Passthrough to a network cable soldered to the first row of inputs on the PCB) and it didn’t work. I crimped another saturn extension cable following the guide [here](RJ-45 Multi Console Cthulhu Arcade Stick Tutorial Ver.2 and it still didn’t work, on either PCBs. With the extension cable connected to the Neutrick RJ45, I used my volt meter to test continuity and all pins checked out. The only thing this could possibly be is incorrect wiring.
the brown wire is in there, you just need to look hard for it.
Here’s the pin and color break down per the guide:
1 v - brown
2 b - green
3 a - Red
4 d - Blue
5 e - orange
6 - yellow
7 f - black
8 c - grey
9 g - white
1 g - white
2 a - red
3 b - green
4 c - grey
5 d - blue
6 e - orange
7 f - black
8 v - brown
Am I crimping the RJ45 end incorrectly? the only thing I have left that I can do is to solder the saturn cable directly to the board.
To those that have been asking about Toodles, I saw him at Salt Fest and he is indeed still alive, and in amazing shape! He has some things in store for us but basically he’s just doing his own things for right now. Stay tuned!
Good to hear. I was worried that the PS360+ drove him underground :S
Why would it have done?
I think it was to do with other things, dude.
I’ve been looking into the pinout for the saturn and wanted to make sure this is still correct:
maybe I’m thinking too hard on this, but based on this, the mapping should be as follows:
Saturn Control Port
pin # Name Function
1 v VCC +5v (Out)
2 b D1 Data 1
3 a D0 Data 0
4 d S0 Select 0
5 e S1 Select 1
6 NC 5v +5v (Inp)
7 f D3 Data 3
8 c D2 Data 2
9 g GND Ground
I’m thinking too hard… any insights?
They’re two different markets, IMHO.
IF your main concern is PS3/PC/Mac/retro-support then the MC Cthulu is better…
I think it’s more reliable than the PS360+. I’ve just read too many stories or everybody is lousy at following directions and doesn’t know how to solder. (Or a lot of column A, a bit of column B.)
These 360-reverse engineered PCB’s seem to have a less reliable record than the Third Party PS3 PCB’s. I really don’t know why that is. That’s a point of concern I’ve had about the Qanba’s and EightArc joysticks even though I think the styling on a lot of their models is nice. The dual-console PCB’s do seem to be iffy, though.
The PS360+ is definitely easier to install for PS3/360 support if that’s your main concern. If you want the full range of systems – everything the MC Cthulu supports PLUS 360 support --, you unfortunately don’t have much of a choice and have to go the Chimp plus 360 pad PCB route and solder connections to the MC Cthulu IF you’re working off a base PS3 joystick to start with… This assumes your main system is a PS3 and you don’t intend to buy a 360 and/or you’re going to a tournament that may use 360’s for the games. (You’re of course not generally going to keep the OEM PS3 PCB unless you’re going to preserve the original Home and Start/Select Buttons from Hori and Mad Catz joysticks – that’s if they’re not 24mm arcade buttons.)
The TE Kitty, VLX Kitties, and TEasy Strikes are easier to install, yes, but that’s if you have a native 360 PCB to work off of to begin with. The dual-system owner crowd that doesn’t want to buy duplicate joysticks for their PS3’s and 360’s have pretty much spoken for and bought out some of these PCB’s. The Kitties are nice IF you want the retro-system support but they’re 360-only PCB’s… Unless Toodles says otherwise, it’s probably safe to assume that the VLX Kitties are out of production unless he gets a large enough order to justify new production. TE Kitties were primarily made for Round 1, 2, and first-generation TE-S 360 joysticks and that PCB may also be out of production, too. We’re probably at least two production cycles away from all those joysticks by now…
The main issue I’ve seen for modding with newer case designs (aside from cramped faceplate space for new art and lack of upper faceplate screws to take off the faceplates) is the cramped interior space – this mainly affects the Mad Catz FightStick Pro and the HRAP V3/VX designs. You might have to do some cutting of the internal case plastic to fit in a secondary or replacement PCB. (Cutting internal case plastic to do interior mods should be something Mad Catz TE owners are used to by now!) This may also be an issue with the HRAP N3/NX SA case; it certainly is NOT a conveniently designed case for installing alternate control levers. Until I see or hear otherwise, both the MC FightStick VS and the Razer Atrox (verified by release photos of the production joystick) seem to be fine and have plenty of room to install alternative/secondary PCB’s.
TBH, I was trying to make light of the absence and fell flat on my face. My apologies.