The official Cthulhu and ChImp thread - Try our new Dreamcast flavor!

Maybe this will help, it’s the exact same PCB iirc

i had two madcatz se fightsticks. i bought an mc and an impv2 and installed it fine in one of them. the other however, when i connect the wire for the up direction it registers as always being up when i plug it into windows to check it. i’ve looked all over the board to make sure i didn’t accidentally connect another point that may be completing the connection somehow and obviously haven’t found anything that was causing it. can anyone help with this? the mc cthulhu and imp work fine in the other stick so i’m pretty confident i just fudged the fightsticks pcb somehow. i could connect the joystick directly to the mc, but then i would lose the joystick for xbox 360… and i’d prefer to keep all functionality if possible. please help!

You wouldn’t happen to have the joystick harness on the wrong way around would you? I did that once, causing similar symptoms. Oh the hilarity.

I’m going to go a step further and solder the Saturn controller plug onto the end of a Network cable and go from there. I have another MC cthulhu coming in for another personal project and if the New cable doesn’t work I’m going to swap the ICs out.

I’m fairly confident it’s on correctly. If I connect from the joystick directly to the mc then it has no problem. It’s just when connected to the madcatz board that it’s detected as up. Such a PITA.

That’s a genuine grounding issue right there. check the madcatz PCB to make sure up and ground aren’t bridged. also, please check the alternate connection portion of the Cthulhu PCB to make sure that up and ground aren’t bridged there as well.

So, I got the 2nd Cthulhu PCB in and tested the Saturn cable on it (Neutrick RJ45 Passthrough to a network cable soldered to the first row of inputs on the PCB) and it didn’t work. I crimped another saturn extension cable following the guide [here](RJ-45 Multi Console Cthulhu Arcade Stick Tutorial Ver.2 and it still didn’t work, on either PCBs. With the extension cable connected to the Neutrick RJ45, I used my volt meter to test continuity and all pins checked out. The only thing this could possibly be is incorrect wiring.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v207/dillweed22/pics%20shared%20online/temporary_zps9a20ad86.jpg~original

the brown wire is in there, you just need to look hard for it.

Here’s the pin and color break down per the guide:

Saturn end
1 v - brown
2 b - green
3 a - Red
4 d - Blue
5 e - orange
6 - yellow
7 f - black
8 c - grey
9 g - white

RJ45 end
1 g - white
2 a - red
3 b - green
4 c - grey
5 d - blue
6 e - orange
7 f - black
8 v - brown

Am I crimping the RJ45 end incorrectly? the only thing I have left that I can do is to solder the saturn cable directly to the board.

To those that have been asking about Toodles, I saw him at Salt Fest and he is indeed still alive, and in amazing shape! He has some things in store for us but basically he’s just doing his own things for right now. Stay tuned!

Hurm…

Good to hear. I was worried that the PS360+ drove him underground :S

Why would it have done?

I think it was to do with other things, dude.

I’ve been looking into the pinout for the saturn and wanted to make sure this is still correct:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v207/dillweed22/Controller%20Hacks/34q6alv_zps4d3cb737.jpg?t=1370636469

maybe I’m thinking too hard on this, but based on this, the mapping should be as follows:

Saturn Control Port
pin # Name Function
1 v VCC +5v (Out)
2 b D1 Data 1
3 a D0 Data 0
4 d S0 Select 0
5 e S1 Select 1
6 NC 5v +5v (Inp)
7 f D3 Data 3
8 c D2 Data 2
9 g GND Ground

I’m thinking too hard… any insights?

They’re two different markets, IMHO.

IF your main concern is PS3/PC/Mac/retro-support then the MC Cthulu is better…
I think it’s more reliable than the PS360+. I’ve just read too many stories or everybody is lousy at following directions and doesn’t know how to solder. (Or a lot of column A, a bit of column B.)

These 360-reverse engineered PCB’s seem to have a less reliable record than the Third Party PS3 PCB’s. I really don’t know why that is. That’s a point of concern I’ve had about the Qanba’s and EightArc joysticks even though I think the styling on a lot of their models is nice. The dual-console PCB’s do seem to be iffy, though.

The PS360+ is definitely easier to install for PS3/360 support if that’s your main concern. If you want the full range of systems – everything the MC Cthulu supports PLUS 360 support --, you unfortunately don’t have much of a choice and have to go the Chimp plus 360 pad PCB route and solder connections to the MC Cthulu IF you’re working off a base PS3 joystick to start with… This assumes your main system is a PS3 and you don’t intend to buy a 360 and/or you’re going to a tournament that may use 360’s for the games. (You’re of course not generally going to keep the OEM PS3 PCB unless you’re going to preserve the original Home and Start/Select Buttons from Hori and Mad Catz joysticks – that’s if they’re not 24mm arcade buttons.)

The TE Kitty, VLX Kitties, and TEasy Strikes are easier to install, yes, but that’s if you have a native 360 PCB to work off of to begin with. The dual-system owner crowd that doesn’t want to buy duplicate joysticks for their PS3’s and 360’s have pretty much spoken for and bought out some of these PCB’s. The Kitties are nice IF you want the retro-system support but they’re 360-only PCB’s… Unless Toodles says otherwise, it’s probably safe to assume that the VLX Kitties are out of production unless he gets a large enough order to justify new production. TE Kitties were primarily made for Round 1, 2, and first-generation TE-S 360 joysticks and that PCB may also be out of production, too. We’re probably at least two production cycles away from all those joysticks by now…

The main issue I’ve seen for modding with newer case designs (aside from cramped faceplate space for new art and lack of upper faceplate screws to take off the faceplates) is the cramped interior space – this mainly affects the Mad Catz FightStick Pro and the HRAP V3/VX designs. You might have to do some cutting of the internal case plastic to fit in a secondary or replacement PCB. (Cutting internal case plastic to do interior mods should be something Mad Catz TE owners are used to by now!) This may also be an issue with the HRAP N3/NX SA case; it certainly is NOT a conveniently designed case for installing alternate control levers. Until I see or hear otherwise, both the MC FightStick VS and the Razer Atrox (verified by release photos of the production joystick) seem to be fine and have plenty of room to install alternative/secondary PCB’s.

TBH, I was trying to make light of the absence and fell flat on my face. My apologies.

ok, I’ve officially decided that this is me screwing up the wiring. anyone want to sell me a working SATURN RJ-45 cable?

Good for him but when a retailer is willing to spend a fortune on his PCB’s to resell and doesn’t get any response it doesn’t build the confidence that he’s going to deliver. Just 1 simple response to 1/20 emails could rebuild the confidence that he’s still doing business. Pretty pissed off :frowning:

the 360 board just didn’t want to work so i decided to chuck it. i decided to just plug the buttons and joystick directly into the mc cthulhu instead. all the buttons work no problem, but now the joystick is the problem. i did test the joystick in another modded one and it works fine. then i tested the modded ones joystick in the one i’m working on and it has the same issue. what’s happening is that only down is being detected. although if i am in one of the corners then it will detect that, but only the bottom corners. and it only detects it if i move quickly into it. it’s really weird. any tips on this?

Don’t use the wiring diagram from the image you quoted but the one dscribed in rtdign’s tutorial

I don’t know why but the pinout is different on both sources !

indeed. i might be blind but i dont see your brown wire (gnd?) connected in that RJ jack

EDIT : btw, has anyone successfully made a nes wire here? >_<

Yup, works great for Mega Man.

Wall of Quotes incoming. I’m sorry in advance!

See my breakdown, below. I’ve verified that it matches rtdign’s tutorial.

See below

The brown wire is actually the voltage wire, believe it or not. is it possible I’m swapping voltage and ground? that’s the only thing I can think of… :confused:

I have. I have a video of me playing Battletoads and Double Dragon as proof. :smiley: