They’re two different markets, IMHO.
IF your main concern is PS3/PC/Mac/retro-support then the MC Cthulu is better…
I think it’s more reliable than the PS360+. I’ve just read too many stories or everybody is lousy at following directions and doesn’t know how to solder. (Or a lot of column A, a bit of column B.)
These 360-reverse engineered PCB’s seem to have a less reliable record than the Third Party PS3 PCB’s. I really don’t know why that is. That’s a point of concern I’ve had about the Qanba’s and EightArc joysticks even though I think the styling on a lot of their models is nice. The dual-console PCB’s do seem to be iffy, though.
The PS360+ is definitely easier to install for PS3/360 support if that’s your main concern. If you want the full range of systems – everything the MC Cthulu supports PLUS 360 support --, you unfortunately don’t have much of a choice and have to go the Chimp plus 360 pad PCB route and solder connections to the MC Cthulu IF you’re working off a base PS3 joystick to start with… This assumes your main system is a PS3 and you don’t intend to buy a 360 and/or you’re going to a tournament that may use 360’s for the games. (You’re of course not generally going to keep the OEM PS3 PCB unless you’re going to preserve the original Home and Start/Select Buttons from Hori and Mad Catz joysticks – that’s if they’re not 24mm arcade buttons.)
The TE Kitty, VLX Kitties, and TEasy Strikes are easier to install, yes, but that’s if you have a native 360 PCB to work off of to begin with. The dual-system owner crowd that doesn’t want to buy duplicate joysticks for their PS3’s and 360’s have pretty much spoken for and bought out some of these PCB’s. The Kitties are nice IF you want the retro-system support but they’re 360-only PCB’s… Unless Toodles says otherwise, it’s probably safe to assume that the VLX Kitties are out of production unless he gets a large enough order to justify new production. TE Kitties were primarily made for Round 1, 2, and first-generation TE-S 360 joysticks and that PCB may also be out of production, too. We’re probably at least two production cycles away from all those joysticks by now…
The main issue I’ve seen for modding with newer case designs (aside from cramped faceplate space for new art and lack of upper faceplate screws to take off the faceplates) is the cramped interior space – this mainly affects the Mad Catz FightStick Pro and the HRAP V3/VX designs. You might have to do some cutting of the internal case plastic to fit in a secondary or replacement PCB. (Cutting internal case plastic to do interior mods should be something Mad Catz TE owners are used to by now!) This may also be an issue with the HRAP N3/NX SA case; it certainly is NOT a conveniently designed case for installing alternate control levers. Until I see or hear otherwise, both the MC FightStick VS and the Razer Atrox (verified by release photos of the production joystick) seem to be fine and have plenty of room to install alternative/secondary PCB’s.