The official Cthulhu and ChImp thread - Try our new Dreamcast flavor!

They’re two different markets, IMHO.

IF your main concern is PS3/PC/Mac/retro-support then the MC Cthulu is better…
I think it’s more reliable than the PS360+. I’ve just read too many stories or everybody is lousy at following directions and doesn’t know how to solder. (Or a lot of column A, a bit of column B.)

These 360-reverse engineered PCB’s seem to have a less reliable record than the Third Party PS3 PCB’s. I really don’t know why that is. That’s a point of concern I’ve had about the Qanba’s and EightArc joysticks even though I think the styling on a lot of their models is nice. The dual-console PCB’s do seem to be iffy, though.

The PS360+ is definitely easier to install for PS3/360 support if that’s your main concern. If you want the full range of systems – everything the MC Cthulu supports PLUS 360 support --, you unfortunately don’t have much of a choice and have to go the Chimp plus 360 pad PCB route and solder connections to the MC Cthulu IF you’re working off a base PS3 joystick to start with… This assumes your main system is a PS3 and you don’t intend to buy a 360 and/or you’re going to a tournament that may use 360’s for the games. (You’re of course not generally going to keep the OEM PS3 PCB unless you’re going to preserve the original Home and Start/Select Buttons from Hori and Mad Catz joysticks – that’s if they’re not 24mm arcade buttons.)

The TE Kitty, VLX Kitties, and TEasy Strikes are easier to install, yes, but that’s if you have a native 360 PCB to work off of to begin with. The dual-system owner crowd that doesn’t want to buy duplicate joysticks for their PS3’s and 360’s have pretty much spoken for and bought out some of these PCB’s. The Kitties are nice IF you want the retro-system support but they’re 360-only PCB’s… Unless Toodles says otherwise, it’s probably safe to assume that the VLX Kitties are out of production unless he gets a large enough order to justify new production. TE Kitties were primarily made for Round 1, 2, and first-generation TE-S 360 joysticks and that PCB may also be out of production, too. We’re probably at least two production cycles away from all those joysticks by now…

The main issue I’ve seen for modding with newer case designs (aside from cramped faceplate space for new art and lack of upper faceplate screws to take off the faceplates) is the cramped interior space – this mainly affects the Mad Catz FightStick Pro and the HRAP V3/VX designs. You might have to do some cutting of the internal case plastic to fit in a secondary or replacement PCB. (Cutting internal case plastic to do interior mods should be something Mad Catz TE owners are used to by now!) This may also be an issue with the HRAP N3/NX SA case; it certainly is NOT a conveniently designed case for installing alternate control levers. Until I see or hear otherwise, both the MC FightStick VS and the Razer Atrox (verified by release photos of the production joystick) seem to be fine and have plenty of room to install alternative/secondary PCB’s.

TBH, I was trying to make light of the absence and fell flat on my face. My apologies.

ok, I’ve officially decided that this is me screwing up the wiring. anyone want to sell me a working SATURN RJ-45 cable?

Good for him but when a retailer is willing to spend a fortune on his PCB’s to resell and doesn’t get any response it doesn’t build the confidence that he’s going to deliver. Just 1 simple response to 1/20 emails could rebuild the confidence that he’s still doing business. Pretty pissed off :frowning:

the 360 board just didn’t want to work so i decided to chuck it. i decided to just plug the buttons and joystick directly into the mc cthulhu instead. all the buttons work no problem, but now the joystick is the problem. i did test the joystick in another modded one and it works fine. then i tested the modded ones joystick in the one i’m working on and it has the same issue. what’s happening is that only down is being detected. although if i am in one of the corners then it will detect that, but only the bottom corners. and it only detects it if i move quickly into it. it’s really weird. any tips on this?

Don’t use the wiring diagram from the image you quoted but the one dscribed in rtdign’s tutorial

I don’t know why but the pinout is different on both sources !

indeed. i might be blind but i dont see your brown wire (gnd?) connected in that RJ jack

EDIT : btw, has anyone successfully made a nes wire here? >_<

Yup, works great for Mega Man.

Wall of Quotes incoming. I’m sorry in advance!

See my breakdown, below. I’ve verified that it matches rtdign’s tutorial.

See below

The brown wire is actually the voltage wire, believe it or not. is it possible I’m swapping voltage and ground? that’s the only thing I can think of… :confused:

I have. I have a video of me playing Battletoads and Double Dragon as proof. :smiley:

wow, you indeed need to look really fucking close to see it XD but ok, my mistake then!

and ye, i’d say brown is gnd but guess sega wants to play it differently…Again :stuck_out_tongue: you can check with a voltage meter anyway :slight_smile: if you get -xV you know you got it backwards :stuck_out_tongue:

and as for the nes, thats odd. what wiring were you using(and what firmware) ? cause i just can’t get it to work no matter what i do… (even when soldering them directly to the pcb)
thats why im guessing its either pal nes being an arse or the firmware :-/
or the wire is to long for the chuthulu ? (cause with a snes pad it works fine)

Not the GREATEST pic, I know :stuck_out_tongue:

Here’s hoping that’s the case. this is actually one of the Innovation extension cables that are up on ebay, so sega didn’t choose the colors. I’ll test that out today.

Last time I made one was in october so, it’s been some time. I would make one but my NES is in storage.

ok, tested the ground, and the WHITE wire is most definitely ground. All wires are registering 5v though when I take a volt meter to them, which is weird. I Just got a few eclipse pads for my saturn and half of the inputs are not working. I know this pad isn’t common ground, and I’m getting a bit off topic, but I think something may be up with my console.

I have a friend with a Saturn that is going to let me test the out on his on monday, and I’ll let everyone know where I’m at with that.

were do i get one of the vlx kitty boards my vlx stopped working and would really like to do this for a quick fix. my arcade stick says error 43 on the computer and does not work at all for the xbox any suggestions

Try replacing the USB cable. The cables Hori use are crap.

Installing a Kitty board will not make it work on Xbox 360.

i mean to ask before ordering them, but does the MC cthulhu with ps2 cable work fine with the newer Xtokki ps2<>360 converters? i’ll be wiring them up soon enough, but i just want to make sure.

It should, I’m not 100% sure though


Turns out the controller ports in my Saturn are crapping out. I tested with another saturn and it works.

I tried to fix a mc cthulhu that I have but still have some problems.

I went through the troubleshooting guide and found out that I had to replace the C2 condensator. So I bought 0.47uF50V condensator and still have problems.

I tried connecting the cthulhu to my desktop PC and got it working OK, but after a while I redisconnected it and got the “usb device not recognized”. I went throught the tests on the troubleshooting guide and got the same answer: have to change the c2 condensator


ps= does the pin #1 need to have the exactly same voltage as the VCC screw terminal or “just very near”?

I need to know: will McCthulhu and Spark CE be compatible with PS4? If they aren’t, will you update them to work on it?

Sorry but you got it wrong. It’s not the MC Cthulhu that has to be PS4-compliant, the PS3 already works with many USB peripherals, it’s trivial to have all of them work on the PS4.
Rather, Sony wants you to buy your sticks and all for the new console. If the MC Cthulhu ever works for the PS4, it’ll be due to Toodles working-around Sony’s protection scheme.